seanski06 Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 my car has 202,000 miles and its a 96 2.2 impreza L AWD 5-speed im not sure when last the axles were replaced....but right now both sides are shot....so i bought 2 aftermarket refurbished axles and im thinking about installing them this weekend.....what will i need besides the axles am i going to need any kind of washers, seals..etc i've read some write-ups and cant recall whether they installed new seals or didnt.....and what about ball joints? i figure im gonna have to pull the control arm away from the hub....i dont know how well the balljoint boot will hold up...is it hard to replace the ball joints? or is that not necessary thanks -sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Nope, I don't think you'll need anything else. As long as the axle came with a new nut, you should be all right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Does he need pin punches and those spring pins/roll pins? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanski06 Posted September 6, 2006 Author Share Posted September 6, 2006 Does he need pin punches and those spring pins/roll pins? each axle came with a pin and i have plenty of punches...i jsut wasnt sure about a washer or anything between the axle and the diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 I changed the front axle on my 99 Forester. It was not necessary to pop the ball joint to complete the job. I ended up buying a 3/4 inch torque wrench at Northern tool. The torque measurement required when installing the new castle nut exceeded the limit on my 1/2 inch torque wrench. The 3' handle on the 3/4 inch wrench made removing the castle nut a breeze. Do a search, there's plenty of good information on changing the front axle. It's hard to believe that your car's ball joints aren't worn. The ball joints on my Forester were extremely worn when I replaced them at 150,000 miles. Depending on where you live, removing the castle nut can be the toughest part of the job. I live in the South, no rust, so easy for me. If you live in the rust belt it may take several days of soaking the castle nut with penetrating oil before it budges. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rverdoold Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Hi How can see if my axles are ready to be replaced. My front left CV joint (outer) needs to be replace so i will remove the axle. Are there any points to have a good look at befor i put it back. Except the boots and grease in the inner joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 i just removed an axle last week from my parts car, it was very easy and i didn't touch the control arm. i unbolted the strut and it popped right out. installing might be different though since you won't want to mess with that adjustable bolt in the strut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 do yourself a favor if you have a truck place nearby. Just stop in and have them loosen the nuts with a 3/4 impact and hand tighten them back up to get home. That just may make the job easier for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hohieu Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 I just replaced a couple of cv boots last month. Check out the last post in this thread. AVK's method worked very well for me, but if you're planning on replacing the ball joints, it may be wise to follow Cookie's advice and have a shop loosen the bolt that secures it to the knuckle housing. I had no luck trying to get mine out. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63062&page=2&highlight=split+cv+boot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 3/16" PUNCH!!! don't use 1/4". there are horror stories about getting them stuck. each axle came with a pin and i have plenty of punches...i jsut wasnt sure about a washer or anything between the axle and the diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Storydude1 Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 do yourself a favor if you have a truck place nearby. Just stop in and have them loosen the nuts with a 3/4 impact and hand tighten them back up to get home. That just may make the job easier for you. If by easier, you mean needing new wheelbearings, then, yes, it will be easier. The torque on the Castle nut is not for show....it holds the bearings together. Do me a favor, next CV replacement, do just what you describe. I'll LOL at your "I need new wheelbearings" posting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 he probably could have defined the term "hand tightened" a little better. he didn't mean loose. more like - not seized/rusted/impacted on to the point where he can't get it off with standard home procedures involving hammers, pipes and the like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Storydude1 Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 he probably could have defined the term "hand tightened" a little better. he didn't mean loose. more like - not seized/rusted/impacted on to the point where he can't get it off with standard home procedures involving hammers, pipes and the like. How about use the right tool for the job, and not give advice that could be mis-represented? That hub nut torque MUST be at specs, or above before driving the vehicle ANY distance. Breaking it loose, and then re-installing it looser(the whole reason for bringing it to the shop, remember) assures the bearing eating itself. I have not found ONE car that I cannot remove the hub bolt by hand on with a 2 foot breaker bar, and a 1-2 foot section of pipe slid over it. 175Ft/Lbs is not easy to move, and it's that tight for a reason. Not to be a wongleflute, but if you cannot work on your own car, or do not own the right tools, do not attempt the repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 Actually I have used that trick on the last couple that folks have brought over we had trouble getting off. I have a tire place several blocks from my house so it has not been a problem. I am sure you sould not drive any significant distance like that. The ones that have caused trouble have been from a rust state (Maine) and when we got it back the axle is still pretty stuck in there. It takes another wheel bearing risking couple pops with a sledge hammer to get seperation. When you bring it up it does occur to me that another thing has once been mentioned about air tools and Subaru bearings. It seems like I have read somewhere that impact tools could damage the bearings by the impact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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