GeneralDisorder Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 The relays under the drivers kick panel mounted to the steering column of every EA81 and EA82 soob will work the same. That's what I usually use, but BMW's and Jag's are rare in the yards here. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 lol i live in south florida... lamborghinis arent even THAT rare down here... not that i see em in the boneyards or anything:eek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 We have a lot of interesting cars here, but the nicer stuff doesn't make it to the u-pull-it style yards. In the last week I've seen two Ferrari's, a Lotus Elan (weird), and a Ford GT. But I live right next to a very "rich" neighborhood. I'm right in the valley between all the rich folks up on the hill, and we all shop at the same grocery. Makes for some interesting sights. The older BMW's do sometimes make it to the yards. There was an older 325i convertible at Foster not long ago. But there's no rust here, and so a lot of those type cars end up getting fixed rather than scrapped. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 see, weve got such an interesting cross section of global society living down here.. every stripe of american-american, along with all sorts of different types of foreigners. Lots of them like to try to put on airs by driving nicer older cars, but alot of them cant afford to really maintain them in the end... so half of the 80s (and now even early 90s) Volvos, Mercedes, Jaguars, BMWs, and Audis wind up in the boneyards... and the other half stay on the road, being supported by their dearly departed siblings. That, plus I think there may be a bit of a migration of these types of cars down here.. the difference between upper and servant class is getting starker every day down here (its hard to rent as a single young man(or woman), impossible without a roomate anymore. my thought is, that people are searching further afield, for a slightly older car of a type thats a notch or two higher on the ladder than they might have typically chosen.... putting on airs, so to speak, you dig? im kinda forming this idea because my dad is currently looking at buying a ten year old 325ic... so think what ye may. i just like studying differences between my area of the US, and others. its reassuring to know that we (as a nation) arent all as bland and facelessly the same as could be thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted September 30, 2006 Author Share Posted September 30, 2006 davalos::::: BIG TIP goto junkyard find late 80s BMW 3 series look on drivers strut tower under the hood, there should be a relay box with three different relay plugs in it. grab at least one of those plugs, i grabbed several to get the wires i needed. all you need is a four prong relay that fits that plug, look in the bimmer and in any other german/european car.. VWs and jags i think were the other big two, but it could be in any car... find one that has a rating on it, i used a 40 amp but im SURE it doesnt need THAT much. i pocketed it all. you can also find a soob, and go to the relays that are located at the back of the engine bay, in front of the passenger.. if you grab one of those little metal relay mounting tabs you should be able to use that on the plug from the bimmer. when you get the four prong relay, there will probly be a wiring diagram on it.. but the prongs will be numbered 30, 85, 86, and 87. power supply from battery goes to 30, line out to solenoid terminal goes to 87. the line from the switch, and the ground wire, go on either of the other two. terminal 30 is the only one that is pointed in a different direction from the others.. the bottom looks like this ._ | | .| the _ is terminal 30, the two | | side by side are 85 and 86, and the bottom | is 87. ignore the dots, they are there as placeholders to space the lines properly to remove the wires from the relay plugs, you need a skinny little flathead screwdriver (the little "precision" ones with the spinning wheel on the back work great, or an eyeclass screwdriver, that kind of tiny) take the little flathead, and slide it down into the plastic hole, behind the flat side of the spade terminal. this flattens a little retaining tab, and you can then pull the wire out the bottom. take that tab and flew it back out, then pop the wires you want back into place. I made sure i found two high gauge wires in the JY that i could splice onto with my high power wire. this is a GREAT source of relays for retrofitting, because there are three of these little plugs that slide onto a small, slide on covered bracket on the strut tower of the bimmer.. and you can put up to five relays into this little bracket thingy. or three relays and a small fuse block to power them all. guess what i was doing when i found out all this info about the relays?? relaying my start control circuit :-p BTW yer welcome, i just saved you 20 bux. :- ) at least, thats how much a relay kit cost me in my local stores....and who knows what kinda of relay?? im using hella or bosch, i got plenty of spares Okay, well, it looks like I'm junk-yardin' this weekend. It's SO weird! Ever since I put the new starter in, about once a week, I sit-down, pop the key-in, turn it, and I get "click". I’m in a stick, so I push-start it no problem. I'll do this for like 2-3 days, and then POW! Out-of-the-Blue, it starts right up. This will last a week, maybe. Sometimes 3 days, maybe 2. Then (usually once I get cocky enough to parallel park. I’ve double-checked all my connections from the battery to the starter and the block, plus the terminal @ the starter, and it all seems tight. Continuity test was fine on the battery cable(s), so I’m thinking it’s the lead-set coming out of the firewall – the one with about 54,091 other wires in the harness that are equally wrapped, corrugated, taped, clipped, zip-stripped, etc. Do I need to operate on this clump of wiring & pull it all apart & then mount the relays there on the firewall? Or should I put it under the dash? Never done one of these before... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 Before ripping apart the harness, look at this thread: Test LED - for intermittant troubles http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64831&highlight=test I have used this technique to find this intermittant starting problem. On one car, it was a pin in a blue 3 conductor connector under the dash on the passenger side. Another was the contacts in the starter, and dirt on the disk in the starter contactor. I had more than one used starter with worn contacts and dirty disks, so they need to be checked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted September 30, 2006 Author Share Posted September 30, 2006 So ... a check light ... yes? Actually, that's a really good idea. I shouldda thunk it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted October 2, 2006 Author Share Posted October 2, 2006 Okay, so putting in a relay ... Here is the wiring diagram from the FSM: What is the inhibitor switch? ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 The inhibitor switch is the same thing as a neutral safety switch. It prevents the car from being started when the shifter is not in the Park position. The switch opens and prevents voltage getting to the starter solenoid so the starter cannot work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted October 2, 2006 Author Share Posted October 2, 2006 Ahhh ... that explains "AT Only" ... Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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