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'96 Legacy L Wagon, Misfires Stalls, Wierd. Long post.


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Hi, I am new to the list. It looks like there is a lot of help here for Subaru owners. I have a '96 Legacy L, 105K miles, AT, etc. It is my wifes car. For the most part it has been well maintained.

 

For some time now, if you start it and drive away cold, it will shift violently from 1st to 2nd and then it will shudder while driving and will either idle very rough at stops or just stall most often it stalls. Then you get a check engine light. It will start, but runs roughly and may stall again. However, if you warm it up for a long time (4-5 minutes) or take great care to let off of the throttle so that it shifts softly in 2nd, for the first time or two, the shuddering, stalling. etc. doesn't happen.

 

I have taken it to independent Subaru Garages and they have checked the code, it always tells them of a misfire at one of the cylinders, I think that it is usually 3 or 4. They will change the plugs, or the wires and scratch their heads. But the problem soon returns.

 

Does this sound familiar to anyone? Ideas?

 

Thanks!

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I don't think that they changed the Coil pack, I will check the repair orders this PM. On my Volvo, to check the MAF you can unplug it and start up and run without the MAF and see if it the MAF is causing the problem. Can one do that with the Subaru?

 

Thanks!

 

Noel

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Try replaceing the temp sensor for the ECU....
I considered this idea but nixed it because it doesn't follow the standard symptoms of an ailing temp sensor, but it's always a possibility.

 

You can try running without the MAF, but I found that on my car, it wouldn't run at all without the MAF.

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I considered this idea but nixed it because it doesn't follow the standard symptoms of an ailing temp sensor, but it's always a possibility.

 

You can try running without the MAF, but I found that on my car, it wouldn't run at all without the MAF.

 

 

Well, I can't do much damage if it doesn't run. I'll give it a go!

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Missfire codes usually are a failing coil pack. You have a classic sympton of a cracked coil tower.

 

In the early evening pop the hood, start the car and look for sparks. Next using a spray bottle, spray the coils, and the wires. Look for sparks.

 

nipper

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Missfire codes usually are a failing coil pack. You have a classic sympton of a cracked coil tower.

 

In the early evening pop the hood, start the car and look for sparks. Next using a spray bottle, spray the coils, and the wires. Look for sparks.

 

nipper

Thanks Nipper,

 

So far it is coil 2, other stuff 2

 

So, Nighttime is the right time for fixin' the car that you love.....

I've already found a used coil pack, five miles away.

 

I'm assuming that I put water in that spray bottle?

 

Noel

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Thanks Nipper,

 

So far it is coil 2, other stuff 2

 

So, Nighttime is the right time for fixin' the car that you love.....

I've already found a used coil pack, five miles away.

 

I'm assuming that I put water in that spray bottle?

 

Noel

 

water, or just swap coils for the heck of it..

 

nipper

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Thanks Nipper,

 

So far it is coil 2, other stuff 2

 

So, Nighttime is the right time for fixin' the car that you love.....

I've already found a used coil pack, five miles away.

 

I'm assuming that I put water in that spray bottle?

 

Noel

 

You could use gasoline or engine starting fluid, but it might be too much for you to handle if there were some discharge.... :headbang:

 

 

Of course, this was a joke. Do not use a flammable substance...;)

 

matt

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You could use gasoline or engine starting fluid, but it might be too much for you to handle if there were some discharge.... :headbang:

 

 

Of course, this was a joke. Do not use a flammable substance...;)

 

matt

those were my second and third choices. I've been thinking about shaving my eyebrows anyway....

 

Noel

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I considered this idea but nixed it because it doesn't follow the standard symptoms of an ailing temp sensor, but it's always a possibility.

 

You can try running without the MAF, but I found that on my car, it wouldn't run at all without the MAF.

 

I checked the coil in the dark and didn't seek any spark, sprayed everything with water, no sparks anywhere. I should try it when the car is dead cold because that is when the problem seems to occur. I also tried the Volvo trick of running the car with the MAF disconnected to see if perhaps that was causing the problem, but the trick doesn't work on the Subaru ( it runs crappy and kills)

Now the CEL light is on, is there a procedure to reset that?

 

the other suggestion to this point has been the temperature sensor to the ECU. I'll see if I can find one of those.

 

Also, I am coming up on 105K, could this be a timing belt thing, I need to get that done.[/color] and that tranny flush can't hurt anything....

 

Thanks

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I checked the coil in the dark and didn't seek any spark, sprayed everything with water, no sparks anywhere. I should try it when the car is dead cold because that is when the problem seems to occur. I also tried the Volvo trick of running the car with the MAF disconnected to see if perhaps that was causing the problem, but the trick doesn't work on the Subaru ( it runs crappy and kills)

Now the CEL light is on, is there a procedure to reset that?

 

the other suggestion to this point has been the temperature sensor to the ECU. I'll see if I can find one of those.

 

Also, I am coming up on 105K, could this be a timing belt thing, I need to get that done.[/color] and that tranny flush can't hurt anything....

 

Thanks

it can be a jumped timing belt, but i dont think so, as subarus tend to do that after 106,000 miles. Is there any mysterious ticking noise from the front of the engine? That would be a tensioner, then i could buy the timing belt theoory.

 

nipper

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I just pulled the spark plugs. Whoever did the last tune up installed plugs that are spec'd for the 2.5 liter engine in my 2.2. I checked the manual. Is that a standard procedure? Did they just mess up?

 

Noel

 

SUbarus are very picky about the plugs. Put the proper plug in and see what happens. i always assume the right plug is in, sorry about that.

 

nipper

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SUbarus are very picky about the plugs. Put the proper plug in and see what happens. i always assume the right plug is in, sorry about that.

 

nipper

thanks Nipper,

 

I just replaced the plugs with the spec ones and flushed the tranny, I'm going to wash my hands and take her out for a run.

 

stay tuned, ha,ha

 

Noel

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SUbarus are very picky about the plugs. Put the proper plug in and see what happens. i always assume the right plug is in, sorry about that.

 

nipper

It seems to run better, doesn't seem as frail, shifting seemed better, I ran it slow and smooth for about 5 minutes, I fiigured that the new tranny fluid would like to find all of thos nooks and crannys, then I got a little more agressive and the car seemed to respond. The last few times I drove it, it ran poorly and I babied it, so at least I have a bit more confidence in it. Tomorrow morning will be the real test, I'll start it and drive away cold and we'll see what happens.

 

I took out the battery, that seems to have cleared the CEL.

 

Thanks!

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SUbarus are very picky about the plugs. Put the proper plug in and see what happens. i always assume the right plug is in, sorry about that.

 

nipper

 

I don't think that I am up to the task of changing the timing belt, should I do

the Water Pump and the seals at the same time? any idea what it should cost?

 

Thanks

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I don't think that I am up to the task of changing the timing belt, should I do

the Water Pump and the seals at the same time? any idea what it should cost?

 

Thanks

 

Do it all at once, then be done with it untill the next timing belt change.

 

nipper

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Do it all at once, then be done with it untill the next timing belt change.

 

nipper

I just found a repair order from 5/00 for replacement of the main seal and a new timing belt. so this one has 54K on it, I should probably get it inspected.

 

I'll probably buy that used coil and see if they have temperature sensor for the ECU. I'll just go down the list. I need to get the manual for this buddy. I've never had much to do with this car, but it seems like a nice wagon and with my old Volvo running great, this is fun to work on.

 

thanks again,

 

Noel

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I just found a repair order from 5/00 for replacement of the main seal and a new timing belt. so this one has 54K on it, I should probably get it inspected.

 

I'll probably buy that used coil and see if they have temperature sensor for the ECU. I'll just go down the list. I need to get the manual for this buddy. I've never had much to do with this car, but it seems like a nice wagon and with my old Volvo running great, this is fun to work on.

 

thanks again,

 

Noel

 

54 K your half way through the timing belt life. Have it checked since the tensioner was not replaced. A sloppy tension can cause this problem. Tensioners will tick, do you hear a ticking at the front of the engine?

 

nipper

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54 K your half way through the timing belt life. Have it checked since the tensioner was not replaced. A sloppy tension can cause this problem. Tensioners will tick, do you hear a ticking at the front of the engine?

 

nipper

Nipper,

 

There is a rather faint tick during idle on the passenger side front of the engine, would that be it, there has also been a more pronounced ticking occasionally while driving as well.

 

Thanks,

 

Noel

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