Tosh Posted September 14, 2006 Share Posted September 14, 2006 I have a stuck e-brake on my passenger side to remove the caliper I need to take off the two 17mm bolts correct ? then it "should" just slide off ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HATCHY Posted September 14, 2006 Share Posted September 14, 2006 Is the Lever stuck upwards?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted September 14, 2006 Author Share Posted September 14, 2006 no the leaver moves around just fine the brake pad is stuck to the disk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted September 14, 2006 Share Posted September 14, 2006 The caliper BRACKET is removed with the 2 17MM bolts but the caliper itself will come off with just the 12MM at the bottom. Remove that bolt and it will pivot upward on the pivot pin. (the pin is part of the caliper bracket). You may need to tap on the caliper or pry gently on it to get it to pivot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted September 14, 2006 Author Share Posted September 14, 2006 sweet thanks shawn! ok so I've got it pivioting on the top bracket. i STILL can't turn my hub and the pad is still firmly pressed ageist the disk. Any suggestions ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted September 14, 2006 Share Posted September 14, 2006 Get a bigger hammer. -Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted September 14, 2006 Share Posted September 14, 2006 Place a cold chisel against the steel backing of the pad, and drive it away from the rotor. If that doesn't work, bigger hammer, bigger chisel. If you're chucking the rotor, beat on that too to break the bond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffast Posted September 14, 2006 Share Posted September 14, 2006 Get a bigger hammer. -Brian +1 it's the only way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted September 14, 2006 Author Share Posted September 14, 2006 Upgraded from my hand to the 5lb rubber mallet with much success. Caliper is off. Wow I had no idea brakes where this easy, or is it just on subarus? I think I found the source of my problem my brake pad was well it was "stuck" to my rotor. what should mechanically make the pad not be in contact with the rotor at all times? I'm thinking I should inspect whatever part does that. I'm looking at replacing my pads and rotors now just cause I got it all apart any recommendations on pads and rotors ? looks like Beck Arnley has vented rotors for around $50 for the front (I think I should replace them the surface is eh but everything else is pretty damn rusty. any one got any preference on brake pads ? brand or material wise. I might just be paranoid but I'd like to think brakes is an area I'd where money is well spent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted September 14, 2006 Author Share Posted September 14, 2006 +1 it's the only way are pads sticking to the rotor common ? I've never heard of this problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted September 14, 2006 Share Posted September 14, 2006 If your car has vented rotors on it now, then go ahead and get the BA rotors. If not, you need to replace the caliper and bracket to put on the vented rotors. I'm using the Bendix pads from Schmuck's, they work ok. No noticable fade, and decently quiet, unless you somehow get a rock trapped in between the pad and rotor....... Common sticking causes are rust, and seizing. If the pad went all the way down to the metal, and stuck to the rotor, then it's new rotor time, no questions asked. If it was rusted solid to the rotor from sitting, then check the rotor thickness. If it's still above the minimum, then you might be able to get away with machining it back to a smooth surface. Usually, the pads are pushed back from the rotor face by the lack of pressure keeping them pressed on, and very minute variations in rotor thickness puching the pads and caliper apart as the wheel starts turning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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