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What tool to remove pin in axle


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I was reading in the book about removing the axle from my 91 Legacy L AWD automatic trans. It said to use a "special tool" to remove a pin from the axle in order to get it out of the transaxle. What is this tool?

 

Also, what size is the nut that holds the hub on?

 

Thanks

Dale

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the only tool you'll need is a punch to drive out the roll pin from the axle. very straight forward and simple. i've used allen wrenches before in lieu of any punches. i've heard of people using nails, but be forewarned you don't want anything to get wedged in there either, pound it too hard and it'll be heck to get it out. any store will have a couple dollar punch. i think it's a 3/16" punch you'll need, but double check that.

 

the axle nut is usually 32 mm. funny thing is that i've seen 32 and 36 mm axle nuts on the same exact model subaru's not sure what that's all about.

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the only tool you'll need is a punch to drive out the roll pin from the axle. very straight forward and simple. i've used allen wrenches before in lieu of any punches. i've heard of people using nails, but be forewarned you don't want anything to get wedged in there either, pound it too hard and it'll be heck to get it out. any store will have a couple dollar punch. i think it's a 3/16" punch you'll need, but double check that.

 

the axle nut is usually 32 mm. funny thing is that i've seen 32 and 36 mm axle nuts on the same exact model subaru's not sure what that's all about.

Older EA81 and EA82 all used 36mm castle nut; EJ22 are all 32mm if I remember correctly. 3/16" is the correct size for the drift to knock out the pin; knock the pin out from the non-bevelled hole and in from the bevelled hole; when you re-install remember that there are 23 splines so line up the splines properly---if you are 1/2 revolution off, the holes in the DOJ and stub axle won't line up and you'll jam the roll pin trying.
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3/16" is correct, if you use 1/4" you'll regret it.

 

Older EA81 and EA82 all used 36mm castle nut; EJ22 are all 32mm if I remember correctly. 3/16" is the correct size for the drift to knock out the pin; knock the pin out from the non-bevelled hole and in from the bevelled hole; when you re-install remember that there are 23 splines so line up the splines properly---if you are 1/2 revolution off, the holes in the DOJ and stub axle won't line up and you'll jam the roll pin trying.
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Go to sears and get

 

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&pid=00943160000&cat=Hand+Tools,+General+Purpose&subcat=Punches,+Chisels+%26+Pry+Bars&vertical=TOOL&ihtoken=1

 

Pin Punches have a raised center with a flat surface around them to keep the punch centered on the roll pin as you drive it in.

There is no replacement for having the right tool for the job!

As you are in Colorado Springs too, you can get them cheaper at Harbor Freight tools too if you only use them occasionally. Located at Circle and Fountain in Bypass Plaza

 

PS I am an ASE Master Auto Tech and work from home evenings and weekends if you ever need work done, I charge $40/hr

Thanks

DJ

djwdeaf@aim.com

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This reminds me of a time! I was at the junkyard and did not have a punch and I didn't have allen wrenches either. So I walked around the junkyard for a while searching the ground for something, anything that would do the job. And I came across the really long bolt the you screw the plate on top of your battery on to hold the battery in place. And that baby saved my life! I still have it in my car in case I ever have to remove them again.

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