BSOD2600 Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 I've only owned the car (94 legacy turbo touring wagon) for about ~150 miles (since Monday). It's got 149K miles and the transmission was just replaced with a 89K one, AT. Anyways yesterday I got home around 5. As I leave for CarToys (wiring harness...again), about an hour later. I notice a new clicking sound coming from the engine, that I've never heard before. As I rev the engine it gets faster. Anyways the entire ~15 mile trip, it's clicking away. 3 blocks away from my house, as randomly as it came, it went away. I did check the oil last night and it was above full. This morning I don't recall hearing the clicking sound. On the way back from work, I heard the clicking sound again. Changed the oil (with 10W-30) and it still clicks! Drove back to a bit but it never went away. hereHere is a crappy sound recording of it. Thoughts? I realize this is a really vague question with little technical information, but what could that be? Last thing I need before leaving for college is to have my new car dying. I was planning on leaving this Saturday too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Either bent or broken rod? or a spark plug, or wires, or for my car fuel injection cleaner fixed it. Also, check the belts, and the harmonic pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Either bent or broken rod? or a spark plug, or wires, or for my car fuel injection cleaner fixed it. Also, check the belts, and the harmonic pulley. No way to any of that. It sounds like a stuck lifter. Like, really stuck. I've never heard a car tick that badly before because of a stuck lifter though. Well, actually, I have heard a car tick that loud before, but not because of lifters. My car ticked that badly when the MAF was going south. The ECU was pulling the timing so far back that I got a sound like that. Do you experience power loss? It seemed that from the way it was hitting that you might experience some power loss, which tells me that it has to do with timing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Man that sounds hideous . I would say a rod knock. Next time it happens, pull the spark plug wires one at a time and see if it changes pitch. Thats a deep noise, and mains dont ever go bad. If it is a rod bearing, if i am right, its going to be the 2nd cylinder on the pass side. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie94 Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 does engine rpms change the sound/speed of clicking? i was getting a similiar sound in my 92 leg at least untill a plug blew out(yup,plug was problem) found out you should always check your plugs to make sure they're tight.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSOD2600 Posted September 22, 2006 Author Share Posted September 22, 2006 does engine rpms change the sound/speed of clicking? A definite yes! I'm revving the engine with the hood open in that sound clip when the clicking gets faster. If it's clicking tomorrow morning, I'll try disconnecting each spark plug and see how that changes the sound. Guess before work, I'll try to take it to a Subaru mechanic and have him give me a guestimate on what the problem is. I don't know about power loss -- I've just gotten this car so not used to its characteristics yet. Plus it's an AT and I've only previously owned MT cars, so even more difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noeln Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Maybe the tensioner on the timing belt.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Be it piston gudgeon pin bearing, big end rod bearing, or even crankshaft main bearing noises, the following will apply: It will be muted at cold starts, and progressively get louder as the engine warms up and the oil thins out. It will not come and go. A busted bearing will not fix itself randomly. The noise is a low frequency, "dull" thud kind of sound. Not clicking. I think the most likely is a stuck valve lifter. The timing belt tensioner can also make this sort of noise if the oil seal is leaking. I would expect it to fluctuate and not follow engine rpm directly. You might also want to check the gaskets on the exhaust manifolds. Especially at the cylinder head end. Also makes a ticking noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSOD2600 Posted September 22, 2006 Author Share Posted September 22, 2006 I think the most likely is a stuck valve lifter. Lets say it's a valve lifter -- is that something that can be fixed easily or requires tearing the engine apart/out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Lets say it's a valve lifter -- is that something that can be fixed easily or requires tearing the engine apart/out? You'll need to take the valve covers...a slightly annoying task. It doesn't require removing the engine or anything of the sort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanski06 Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 my g/f's impreza does that too....same sound same everything...let me know what theoutcome is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Storydude1 Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 You'll need to take the valve covers...a slightly annoying task. It doesn't require removing the engine or anything of the sort. 1/4 quart of Marvel Mystery oil will free sticky lifters. Add to crankcase, drive for 100 miles, drain. Repeat as needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 1/4 quart of Marvel Mystery oil will free sticky lifters. Add to crankcase, drive for 100 miles, drain. Repeat as needed. You can always try that first, but from the degree of how bad the sticking is, I'm not so sure if Mystery Oil is really gonna do anything. The mystery oil usually just stops the ticking valves, not the obnoxiously sticking ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 1/4 quart of Marvel Mystery oil will free sticky lifters. Add to crankcase, drive for 100 miles, drain. Repeat as needed. I agree.Either Marvel or go with some seafoam.Pour either in your oil.The only down side is that after running it you will need to change your oil again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMattyD Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 To me, the noise does not sound like valve lifter ticking, it is too loud, and more of a clanking than a ticking or tapping. I have had experience with valve lifter ticking, and it is a much more staccato ticking, with no "ringing" afterward. Now anything is possible. It may be the lifters after all, but I know mine didn't sound anything like that. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 To me, the noise does not sound like valve lifter ticking, it is too loud, and more of a clanking than a ticking or tapping. I have had experience with valve lifter ticking, and it is a much more staccato ticking, with no "ringing" afterward. Now anything is possible. It may be the lifters after all, but I know mine didn't sound anything like that. Matt i agree its to loud and deep for lifters. Take a long screwdriver or a wooden dowel, put it to your ear, and the other end probe around the engine, that will tell you where its coming from. Also sounds really loud for a tensioner. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSOD2600 Posted September 22, 2006 Author Share Posted September 22, 2006 This morning it was still making the clicking noise. I took a long screwdriver and placed it on each cylinder. The sound was obviously coming from the back right one (is that the #2?). On my way to work, I stopped by two Subaru mechanic shops. The first one was Smart Service (http://www.smart-service.com). A mechanic listened to the noise and told me it was most likely the lifter. Said it might be stuck / not fully opening. Said I could try running some engine cleaner stuff in the oil to see if that fixes it, if not then he would have to take it apart and clean them. The other mechanic place I took it to was Suburb Service. Once again, the mechanic said it was lifter noise. She also said that it could be the oil pump that could be going out (and putting air in the oil?) or the rubber ring around some hold was sucking itself in. Both said that it wouldn’t be bad to drive the 500 miles to school – I’d notice the sound getting louder, worse gas mileage and a rougher idle. Since I drove to work around 8am, no auto store was open. During lunch, I plan to run out and get some Seafoam to put in the oil. *Hopefully* that’ll fix the problem. If not, then I plan on driving to school and taking it to a mechanic the first week. Anyone know a reputable mechanic in Klamath Falls, OR? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 and thats the weakness of the intenet, nothing like being there to hear where its coming from. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickensheets Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Be it piston gudgeon pin bearing, big end rod bearing, or even crankshaft main bearing noises, the following will apply: It will be muted at cold starts, and progressively get louder as the engine warms up and the oil thins out. . Correct me if I am wrong, but multi viscosity oil thickens as it warms. It's called anti-newtonian charateristics because it defies the laws of the natural world. In other words 10w-40 is ten when cold for easy starting and 40 when warm for better cushioning. rd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frag Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Correct me if I am wrong, but multi viscosity oil thickens as it warms. It's called anti-newtonian charateristics because it defies the laws of the natural world. In other words 10w-40 is ten when cold for easy starting and 40 when warm for better cushioning. rd I think you're only partially right. 10-30 oil has the base viscosity of 10 when cold and the base viscosity of 30 when hot. Nervertheless, hot grade 30 oil is thinner than cold grade 10 oil. Proof : when i start my car and it's cold outside, oil pressure is around 70-80 psi at idle and then goes progressively down until it's aroud 12 psi at idle when the engine reaches its operating temp. I use Mobil 1 10-30 but have seen the same thing happening with other oils. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMattyD Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Correct me if I am wrong, but multi viscosity oil thickens as it warms. It's called anti-newtonian charateristics because it defies the laws of the natural world. In other words 10w-40 is ten when cold for easy starting and 40 when warm for better cushioning. rd Yes, unfortunately I believe you are wrong. The oil thins as temperature increases. The difference between "multi viscosity" oils is not that they don't obey the laws of physics, but that they still thicken when cold, but not to the degree a single viscosity oil would. matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Yes, unfortunately I believe you are wrong. The oil thins as temperature increases. The difference between "multi viscosity" oils is not that they don't obey the laws of physics, but that they still thicken when cold, but not to the degree a single viscosity oil would. matt i know this always confuses everyone http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/framed.htm?parent=question164.htm&url=http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSOD2600 Posted September 22, 2006 Author Share Posted September 22, 2006 For my lunch break today, I drove ~2 mi to Schucks to pick up some SeaFoam and more oil. The entire way it was clicking. Dumped in half the can of seafoam into the oil and then drove ~1 mi to Kid Valley for lunch (mmmmm!). Returning to work, I didn’t hear the clicking anymore! I won’t called it fixed just yet, but it’s sounding good. Got to do some errands tonight and then I’ll change the oil again. My 94 turbo legacy came with a 93 manual which states it takes 4.2 Qts / 4L of oil – it still should be the same for my 94, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 I've only worked on a few but they all took 4.2 quarts. My 99 2.5 does too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 go seafoam!!! let's hear it for mechanics who know their stuff.!!! i hope it works out for you on the easy side of things. For my lunch break today, I drove ~2 mi to Schucks to pick up some SeaFoam and more oil. The entire way it was clicking. Dumped in half the can of seafoam into the oil and then drove ~1 mi to Kid Valley for lunch (mmmmm!). Returning to work, I didn’t hear the clicking anymore! I won’t called it fixed just yet, but it’s sounding good. Got to do some errands tonight and then I’ll change the oil again. My 94 turbo legacy came with a 93 manual which states it takes 4.2 Qts / 4L of oil – it still should be the same for my 94, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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