What NEEDS to be done.....

[Urabus-84HBDR]

What NEEDS to be done when I am changing the Front Crank Shaft Seal., also going to put a new oil pump seal in. I am working on it today so any info asap would be awesome. The car is a 1988 GL-10 Turbo AWD sedan, ea82T, so all knows, I have read a few of these from other board members and sounds like most just pull the radiator out and do it that way. I want to leave the car as together as possible, I will, but dont neccessarily want to pull the motor. I am capable of the pull, I am mostly concerned with time... Any info on this would greatly help me. Thanks everybody who read this or replied! I plan on doing a write up afterwards, if it goes smoothly...

[idosubaru]

do not pull the engine, that is crazy talk. timing belt and seals is an easy job. i don't even pull the radiator to do those. although pulling it does help mostly with the crank seal. don't replace just the oil pump gasket. reseal the entire oil pump. it needs the oil seal (under the sprocket), the pump to block "mickey mouse" gasket and an oring. do not replace one and not the others. to get the sprocket off the oil pump use a large...i think a 1 inch socket....on the oil pump rotor to hold it still. then crank the 12 or 14 mm nut off the face of the oil pump pulley.

 

someone on the XT6 boards only replaced the mickeymouse gasket and when he got it back together it leaked terribly out the oil pump seal that he didn't replace. he sold it cheap to me on ebay and i sold it for much more after replacing the $3 seal he neglected.

 

this can be done in a few hours.

 

i gotta go...but i'll tyr to check back......

[NorthWet]

  grossgary said:

do not pull the engine, that is crazy talk. timing belt and seals is an easy job. i don't even pull the radiator to do those...

On my GL-10s/turbos, the front space is tighter than non-turbo (or especially XT). The radiator removal would be a must-do for me just for work room.

[Urabus-84HBDR]

okay. got it all tore down, washed I installed the crank seal, went down good and flush. Took off and looked at the oil seal, the mickey mouse one was all kinked in... have also put the rear of the timing covers on. Put on the left side belt (drivers side). I washed the covers all, made sure that all the bolts/nuts were there. Going to go finish as soon as it warms up a bit, its only 37* f! Oh yea Im doing all of this with out a shop, just in my driveway!!!! Thanks, Ill let you all know if it starts and runs, or how good/bad it does. Naw, got to have some confidence, its goin to run, without spewing oil all over my undercarriage..... thanks

update- I, well my brother decided that the cam sprocket bolts werent tight enough, ended breaking one off inside. Took the belt off, along with the sprocket. My idea is going to be; drill a small hole to fit an easy out in, maybe....

that will work. Going to search around on this.... Thanks

[daeron]

ill go ahead and resurrect the ol' timing belt cover debate.. you dont absolutely HAVE to put the front covers back on.. if they were at all difficult to remove, then you might want to give it a pass. if any of the bolts were difficult, it is HIGHLY recommended to just drill holes straight thru, and secure the cover with zip ties if you MUST have it there.

 

the little captured nuts inside the rear cover get stripped out and spin in their holes, which makes it a royal PITA if you ever have to go in there again...

 

then again, with any luck youve got 60K before you have to go back in, so its up to you. just a friendly suggestion

[Urabus-84HBDR]

okay now my delima..... I have put it back together. Started it, sounds like only two cylinders are firing. When I put the flywheel on TDC 0, and the rotor on the disty is pointing to opposite of #1- I think it is #2. Now what is off, my camshaft-s', would it be 180 out. I beleive that the cam (1+3) is on the exhaust stroke. Another q? Is there a position for TDC comp. stroke and TDC exhaust stroke? Really though.

 

What Im going to go do now......

Take the timing covers off (all the screws are perfect), Put the valve timing marks in the center of the three. The remove the crank pulley, take off the central cover off. Then turn the crankshaft with only the drivers side belt on 360*. Then hook it back up, in doing this the two pins on the camshaft sprocket are pointing to the same=, top- or bottom. Do all of this with the #1 cylinder/piston on the compression stroke.... I think... j/k

I am at a loss so far.

[NorthWet]

"Compression stroke" and "exhaust stroke" are defined by the valves not by the crankshaft. As long as the disty side timing belt is aligned, you will have set compression/exhaust strokes. You will also have set ignition timing, assuming the alignment is right.

 

So, when you installed the t-belts, you had the pointer at the center of the 3 marks, and when you were done one camsprocket mark pointed down and the other one pointed up, right??? Left and right cam sprockets should be 180degrees apart.

[Syonyk]

I believe you have the right idea, but to clarify the cam timing process:

 

1. Remove the timing inspection cover, set the flywheel at the middle of the three scribe marks.

2. Set the driver's side cam pulley. The small hole in the pulley (the odd one) will point straight up, either at the notch in the timing belt cover, or lined up with the cam case/valve cover joint.

3. Install the driver's side timing belt. The bottom side of this belt is the tension side, so this must be tight when installing it.

4. Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees to line up with the scribe marks again. The mark on the driver's side pulley should be pointing straight down.

5. Line the passenger's side cam pulley up. The mark should be pointing straight up, either at the notch in the timing belt cover, or lined up with the cam case/valve cover joint.

6. Install the passenger's side timing belt. The top side of this belt is the tension side, and is the side that must be tight when the belt is installed.

 

At this point, you tighten the tensioners, rotate the engine a few turns to make sure everything stays lined up (if there's slack that causes things to be off a tooth, you'll see things not staying lined up properly after a rotation or two), and crank. It should fire right up.

 

-=Russ=-

[Urabus-84HBDR]

Alright! I made it to school today. It was the cam timing, I beleive that the pass side was 180 out. It was on a comp stroke when it should have been on the exhaust stroke. I beleive. What I did was. Tear it down to the timing belts, alligned the valve timing marks with the bellhousing mark, make sure the disty rotor was pointing at number one. Then took off the pass side belt, after that, I spun the drivers side 360 counterclockwise, put it back togfether and bam..... Fired right up, purred like never before, that I have seen. Sweet, another time I will do a WRITE UP. Thanks

[daeron]

youre right, the passenger side was 180 out. alot of people miss that step of rotating the 180 degrees between installing the two timing belts.

 

its been written up a number of times, and there is actually a standardized version of it in the USRM.. so you can do it, but do it to tell your story more than anything else. weve got one we point at for people who come asking about it. Apparently we failed to point you towards it, but theres ALOT of info in the USRM. top right corner of your screen, click where it says USRM. bingo, now youre golden. talk to you in a few days when youve read all that stuff, it is a BOATLOAD of help when you need it.