Awgrimm Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 Hi all- First off, this site is great! I generally spend more time on NASIOC, but recently picked up a 93 Loyale (E82 FI, with the 4WD 3AT) with 72k as a winter car. Runs pretty well, and I've already purchased everything for the tune-up. However, the thing leaks oil like a friggin' sieve! More than "marking its territory;" these things are like slicks! I plan to open up the front and do everything (timing belts, oil pump, water pump, etc) and have seen Syonyk's excellent post "Things to fix." However, has anyone compiled an actual part's list? I'd hate to get in there and realize I had left something off of my partsbin.com order. Second, I have a set of pug wheels that look just like this (see below), but measure 15" across. What are they off of? (also, if interested, I think I'm going to sell or trade them). Third, I need new fenders. What years/models can I use as donor cars for a 93 Loyale? Thanks- Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 I would check your cam seals and front crank seal.Those 3 seals would be wise to replace when doing timing belts,and that may solve your oil leak.The other main one I would replace would be your valve cover gaskets.Those usually are the first things that will need replacing. As far as your pugs go.Those are 14" alloys IIRC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 Welcome I don't have a parts list, but cam seals, crank seal, waterpump, oil reseal kit, mickeymouse gasket and of course timing belts are what you're gonna need, although i'm sure i left something out. The wheels came off of a Pugeot, either a 504 or a 505, an 80's model that was neither fast nor spectacular, just be sure they are not the 390 "metric" wheels, they only have one tire, made by michelin that fits. Fenders off of any EA-82 subaru should fit, 86-94, although the coupe may be different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virrdog Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 Left and right tensioners along with the idler sprocket are also nice to replace while you are in there. Don't have part numbers, but the stuff can be seen what it looks like in this auction. Item #160033590073 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 I second the cam and crank seals. I've had old cam seals just pop out of the cam case on their own when the PCV system gets plugged up. And yes - the Pugeot 505's did have 15" versions availible, but the 390 metrics are nearly the same size. It should say on the rim which it is. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 for the timing belt related reseal: Crank seal, cam seal (get the cam seal KITS, not the cam seals. they come with the o-ring that's behind the cam cap), oil pump seals and gaskets (there are 3 in total, all available through the parts bin). replace the PCV valve as well to make sure you're oil isn't blowing everyone internally. if you're going further than the timing belts...in other words, cam and heads then you'll need the $2.13 (used to be) cam carrier o-ring that thepartsbin also sells. you'll need two of those, one for each side. i'd also recommend doing the valve covers as they are typical leakage points as well. your best bet would be to narrow down where the leak is coming from before digging into this. it would be a waste to spend 3 hours (or more) doing your first timing belt only to see it still leaks like a seive and needs the cam carrier resealed...which would require removing the timing belts all over again. narrow down the leak first..... these motors are really easy to work on. to make it easier leave the timing belt covers off (not trying to start this debate again and again and again, some like it and some hate it but just a suggestion. search if you want more info) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 and if you plan on pulling the engine to do these various seals, belts and whatnot, also I would do the rear main seal and the oilpan gasket. Should only take a couple hours to pull it if its your first time, 45 minutes tops once you've gotten it down and doing it by yourself. since its an automatic, you don't have this issue but if it were a manual, this would also be a good time to check the clutch condition, and throwout bearing as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted September 27, 2006 Share Posted September 27, 2006 If you don't find the source of the leak, clean the engine and car of oil, then check it often, the only way you will get it is if you pull the engine and replace every last seal and gasket..which may be needed anyway!Find the leak first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beataru Posted September 27, 2006 Share Posted September 27, 2006 ok today i just got my tensioners and belts.. from http://www.1stsubaruparts.com i liked the service...had to wait while they orderd the parts (out of stock) but they expidited the service for me free.. just because i waited an extra 4 days for them to get it! so you should try them out.. there all oem parts.. some of its pricey but i paid it for my tensioners and belts.. things like waterpump i'd get from napa and you should also replace your themostat! napa quoted me on it for like 8 bucks or somethin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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