>< stripped exhaust stud.

[Tosh]

I was already to go just putting everything back together bolting up the exhaust manifold I was just doing a loose fit to make sure everything was right (tightening the studs with a crescent wrench) and I get to thinking Damn i've been tightening this one for a while. reach up and its just spinning so I back it off with my fingers sure enough its stripped! *insert string of profanities here* any one have any good experience with that helix coil kit ? or is getting a new head easier / cheaper?

[tidd1340]

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=3462&highlight=studs

[moosens]

Time-serts are awsome for this application.

 

You install the insert much like a heli-coil but you now have a permanent thread and can use the proper stud over and over.

[DerFahrer]

I think people jump on the Heli-coil bandwagon too fast.

 

I've either ruined threads myself, or found threads that were ruined, a total of 5 times. Once in this exact same situation, exhaust stud stripped out of my XT's driver's-side head, and the other times were where either drivetrain or suspension components mounted to the body.

 

EVERY TIME, I have just retapped the threads to the original size, doing it very slowly, carefully, and using the proper cutting oil, then used a good amount of Loctite.

 

On my XT, I really couldn't care less if that stud never comes out of the head again, so I used red Loctite.

 

I've never had a problem with any of my thread-tapping work for years.

[GeneralDisorder]

Just tap it over to 7/16"x14 or 7/16"x20. I prefer the 20 myself. Then I use a bolt with a lock washer. This size is large enough that it will never strip again, small enough that your tap will thread right in without any drilling required, and small enough that should you for some reason desire to put it back to stock size, can still be fitted with a heli-coil or timesert later (I have never had to do this). I bought two taps (one nice, and one cheap), and cut the tapered end off the cheap one and made my own "bottoming tap" that will cut the last few threads in the bottom of the hole for a perfectly threaded hole.

 

Use stainless steel bolts, with flat and lock washers.

 

GD

[daeron]

hmmm.. i see the machinist being trained in my head running around terrified right now..

 

I accidentally cross threaded the large bolt that holds down the rear of the AC compressor (inboard AC) on the 87 spfi ea-82. I wound up getting a helicoil kit, drilling and tapping, inserting the helicoil with loctite, and fastening everything down. It seemed somehow less than ideal when I did it, in a way i couldn't explain. It has held tight for a few omnths now, high mileage months too.

 

I now know what caused me to feel something was awkward.. I didnt use a bottoming tap to thread the helicoil all the way in.... I was unaware of the need for such, at the time. Now I read GDs explanation of what he did and I understand, and I'm slapping myself in the forehead. i dont know how i could have thought that would have been sufficient.. but at least this is not my head stud or something here.

 

I dont think its going to be a problem, but I'd be interested to see what anyone else thinks about what I did.. as in, how long might it last.

 

Well, at least I won't make that mistake again!

[BoostedBalls]

I've had ok luck with the fine thread heli-coils but I've had great results with JB weld. You just gotta make sure that you clean the threads really well with brake cleaner and it's nice to warm up the area to help the JB flow into the threads really well.

[chef_tim]

I'm a Heli-coil guy. I think I've always used the 3/8 Heli-coil and a matching SAE 3/8 stud from the exhaust shop down the street. Loctight on Heli-coils is your friend. Later, Tim