Strakes Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Hey guys, I've replaced struts myself and am pretty good with working on my cars and have done brake jobs on Volvos. Anyways, I need to replace the brakes on my wife's 1993 Subaru Legacy Wagon 2WD. How much time should I budget for brakes? Would a Sunday afternoon suffice? And am I missing something from the following list before I start? 4 brake disc rotors Front pads Rear pads Motive Products Power bleeder for flushing brake lines and bleeding brakes. High Temp Brake Lubricant made for slider bolts, backside of pads & etc. Spray Brake cleaner P'Blaster for any hard to remove bolts. Haynes manual Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Hey guys,I've replaced struts myself and am pretty good with working on my cars and have done brake jobs on Volvos. Anyways, I need to replace the brakes on my wife's 1993 Subaru Legacy Wagon 2WD. How much time should I budget for brakes? Would a Sunday afternoon suffice? And am I missing something from the following list before I start? 4 brake disc rotors Front pads Rear pads Motive Products Power bleeder for flushing brake lines and bleeding brakes. High Temp Brake Lubricant made for slider bolts, backside of pads & etc. Spray Brake cleaner P'Blaster for any hard to remove bolts. Haynes manual Thanks! did u buy anti-squiek for the brakes, u apply it on the back off the brakes, it dries to rubber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sailhard Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 It's crazy easy. You can probably can do all 4 in an hour 1/2 or so. Just make sure to remove some fluid first from the rez, or it will spill over when you compress the pistons. (I use a big c-clamp and thin piece of wood to compress them.) I've never had to bleed if I do just the pads/rotors. Don't buy the cheap rotors at autozone for 20 bucks each...I did and they are not ballanced. shake from 55 to 65 mph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 I don't think anti-squeak is necessary. But, a Sunday afternoon should be more than enough time if you're familiar with doing volvo brakes. Assuming the 93 doesn't have ABS, getting the brakes apart should be a real breeze (two nuts on the caliber and you can have the discs off). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Boncyk Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Maybe a handy persuader (i.e. a hammer) to help coax the old rotors off. Otherwise, you're good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Maybe a handy persuader (i.e. a hammer) to help coax the old rotors off. Otherwise, you're good to go. i used this stuff called break away but its a little expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Boncyk Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Never heard of Breakaway. Is it available in the US? Do you know how it compares with PBlaster?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Never heard of Breakaway. Is it available in the US? Do you know how it compares with PBlaster?? not really, but its sold here, my dad i think buys it at his HVAC suppliers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Are you planning to rebuild any of the calipers? Is breakaway a penetrating oil, or does it maybe eject a freezing stream? I saw on CRC's web site they have some kind of 'freeze' compound available now for breaking things loose, but I was thinking a CO2 cylinder like for refilling paintball guns might be cheaper in the long run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Refreshments? Hey guys,I've replaced struts myself and am pretty good with working on my cars and have done brake jobs on Volvos. Anyways, I need to replace the brakes on my wife's 1993 Subaru Legacy Wagon 2WD. How much time should I budget for brakes? Would a Sunday afternoon suffice? And am I missing something from the following list before I start? 4 brake disc rotors Front pads Rear pads Motive Products Power bleeder for flushing brake lines and bleeding brakes. High Temp Brake Lubricant made for slider bolts, backside of pads & etc. Spray Brake cleaner P'Blaster for any hard to remove bolts. Haynes manual Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Are you planning to rebuild any of the calipers? Is breakaway a penetrating oil, or does it maybe eject a freezing stream? I saw on CRC's web site they have some kind of 'freeze' compound available now for breaking things loose, but I was thinking a CO2 cylinder like for refilling paintball guns might be cheaper in the long run. its more off a pentrating oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMattyD Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 Hey guys,I've replaced struts myself and am pretty good with working on my cars and have done brake jobs on Volvos. Anyways, I need to replace the brakes on my wife's 1993 Subaru Legacy Wagon 2WD. How much time should I budget for brakes? Would a Sunday afternoon suffice? And am I missing something from the following list before I start? 4 brake disc rotors Front pads Rear pads Motive Products Power bleeder for flushing brake lines and bleeding brakes. High Temp Brake Lubricant made for slider bolts, backside of pads & etc. Spray Brake cleaner P'Blaster for any hard to remove bolts. Haynes manual Thanks! Consider buying OEM pads online. They come with new shims and clips, and are very good quality. I used the cheap ones for a whhile, about 1 set every 18 months, and they would often squeal, etc. I recently went back to Subaru parts, and it is far better. I got mine at subarugenuineparts.com matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 Thanks for the advice big, i need to do my front discs, and pads, and the rear rotors, does anyone know what i need to make the rear brakes vented? Can i just buy the vented discs? will they bolt right up? model 93 legacy wagon 4wd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 Thanks for the advice big, i need to do my front discs, and pads, and the rear rotors, does anyone know what i need to make the rear brakes vented? Can i just buy the vented discs? will they bolt right up? model 93 legacy wagon 4wd. As I recall, the 90-94 rear discs are the same size vented or not. Now, I think you'll still need new calibers, but if you could just pick a set from a junked SS, you'd be good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strakes Posted October 5, 2006 Author Share Posted October 5, 2006 Refreshments? Ah ha! I knew I forgot something! Thanks guys for your advice! I've done a cheap "autozone" brake rotor & pads before...wasn't very happy with the performance. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 why the rotors, are the brakes pulsing? or are you just doing preventive maintenance? pads only are super easy, if the rotors aren't bad why bother? Ah ha! I knew I forgot something! Thanks guys for your advice! I've done a cheap "autozone" brake rotor & pads before...wasn't very happy with the performance. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 why the rotors, are the brakes pulsing? or are you just doing preventive maintenance? pads only are super easy, if the rotors aren't bad why bother? there the originals, and they do pulse, and u can feel it in the steering wheel and pedal. But my brake pedal feels so mushy, so annoying. I want a more solid feeling on the brakes, if i change the fluid is it a waste off time? Or will it make it better? ANd again, does anyone know if i can use the rear rotors that are vented on my 93 leg wagon L? these ones definitly arent vented, but can i put the vented ones, without a new caliper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montana105 Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 Having done a few thousand brake jobs in my former life as a mechanic(automotive technician) I strongly recomend OE parts for quality and sure foot driving.Thinking about the CO2 question I'd be wary of that as cold gases will affect rubber parts also. As far as replacing rotors for a brake job,they need to be measured-deep grooves are very bad especially on Subes as the rotors are fairly thin to begin with considering the job they perform but they are turnable if in somewhat decent shape,basically if you can feel it up front get new rotors and spend the money for good ones.All that shaking when applying brakes also affects other components namely bearings. Just my 2 cents from experience-John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strakes Posted October 9, 2006 Author Share Posted October 9, 2006 The brake job went very well. Thanks for the advice guys! why the rotors, are the brakes pulsing? or are you just doing preventive maintenance? pads only are super easy, if the rotors aren't bad why bother? The rotors were less than the minimum thickness that was stamped into it: 22mm front and 8.5mm rear. So I tossed them. With 170000 miles, I suspect they are the originals. As for the quality of parts, I put in PBR/Axxis Metal Master pads with PBR/Axxis rear rotors and OEM front rotors. After bedding/breaking the pads and rotors in, the car really stops much better than with what was on there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 At 170,000 miles, there was probably more stopping power in Fred Flinstone's foot. The brake job went very well. Thanks for the advice guys! The rotors were less than the minimum thickness that was stamped into it: 22mm front and 8.5mm rear. So I tossed them. With 170000 miles, I suspect they are the originals. As for the quality of parts, I put in PBR/Axxis Metal Master pads with PBR/Axxis rear rotors and OEM front rotors. After bedding/breaking the pads and rotors in, the car really stops much better than with what was on there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strakes Posted October 9, 2006 Author Share Posted October 9, 2006 At 170,000 miles, there was probably more stopping power in Fred Flinstone's foot. Yabadabadoo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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