lpasco Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 ok im still in the process of installing a new engine in my forester 99 couple more questions if i may ask. i have my engine and trans out, and seperated and the clutch is offf, but i need the flywheel off to install on the new engine..... i removed all the bolts, but how do i get it off??? pry it off? special tool? also how do i get the front dampner pully off to remove the timing cover? i know there is a special tool one uses, but is there a way to do it without a special tool? also when changing the timing belt the manual states to slowly bleed the tensioner assembely with a vertical press, not a horozontial vise..... what vertical press.... would a c clamp work? what do you guys use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrturbo Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 if you have all of the bolts out of the flywheel/flexplate you should just be able to wiggle it off, if not tap it with a hammer to free it up. the crank bolt just hit with a 22mm on an impact and wiggle the balancer loose, same thing if it is stuck tap it with a hammer. i always just put the tensioners in a vice and pin them, i have done it a million times like that and had no problem. and do not forget to put lock-tite on the crank bolt!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 The manual specifies you press the plunger on the tensioner vertically I would guess it might have something do with air bubbles or something but doing it horizontally might not necessarily cause an issue. You could maybe use an arbor press those aren't always too expensive, I think you only need like 66lbs force or something anyway. Since you have the engine out an impact wrench should work terrifically. The special tool to hold the crank pulley is like $100+ from SPX. And yes you want that crank pulley bolt back in correctly because if it loosens up later bad things will happen. Here's a pic of how I got mine off with a big chain wrench ($20 at Harbor Freight) and a socket and breaker bar, not shown is the 3' piece of pipe I used to extend the breaker bar . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 [...]Here's a pic of how I got mine off with a big chain wrench ($20 at Harbor Freight) and a socket and breaker bar[...] It looks like you protected the crank pulley from the chain wrench, which is important if the pulley is going to be reused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 Oh yes, I forgot about that, it's a piece of one of the accessory belts taped on with yellow electrical tape since that's what I had close by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 spend a couple minutes wiggling the flywheel, it'll come off. alternately tap each side with a rubber mallet (or hammer with a non-damaging tap). then grab it from each side with your hands and wiggle it back and forth. might not feel like it's doing much, but get fired up and put some stank on it, it'll come off. if you don't have an impact gun for the front pulley, put a socket wrench on it and swing a hammer really hard and really fast at the very end of the socket wrench handle. (goggles might be a good idea). that's the make-shift *impact* wrench method. it'll come off that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lpasco Posted October 6, 2006 Author Share Posted October 6, 2006 thank you all sooo much for the info! It helps greatly. im amazed how easy it is so far to swap this engine and trans in and out! I never thought it would be this easy with so few bolts. thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 That's one thing I love about the Subaru's, most jobs are relatively straightforward compared to some of those cramped in transverse mount deals. A lot of times doing a job on a Suby it seems like the engineers actually thought about how to service the thing; I mean dead easy to change the oil on these, man some cars the oil filter is almost impossible to get at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikevan10 Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 Sorry, but I have to ask- Why are you changing out the engine on such a young piece of fine machinery? Mike V. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lpasco Posted October 7, 2006 Author Share Posted October 7, 2006 I baught the car 2 weeks ago from a car lot (first subaru for me) with the mind set that ive seen so many other subarus run for 200 or 300 thousand miles, with few problmes. Well i changed the oil as soon as i baught it with mobil one and drove it 200 miles then checked the oil and it was a qt low. Mmmm thats strange. I also noticed that it smoked a little when first starting. well i added oil and started it on a trip. 75 miles into it the check engine light came on so i turned around and drove it home. I scanned it and it said cyl misfire number 3. mmmm. so i changed plugs and wires and checked the oiil and it wasent on the stick. I drove it 5 miles and came back checked the plugs and it was covered in oil in number 3. i did a compression check and there was 50 lbs of compression. mmmm thats not good.... so thats why im here now. i got the flywheel off and installed in the new engine and the new engine and trans is mounted together now. Tonight i will change the timing belt and water pump while im at it before setting it back in the car. thank you all for all of your help. it is greatly appreciated. im sure i will have a few more questions before the project is over Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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