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Help, I'm confused!


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92 Loyale, Chiltons says the diagnostic plug can be found either under the dash with the computer module or under the hood on the drivers side. I have looked under the dash by the steering column, not only don't I see the plug(s), but I dont see the module either. I do find a green and a white plug under the hood on the drivers side. Supposedly if you plug in the green connector, you should be able to read the code(s) on the check engine light. All mine does is stay on all the time. Am I playing with the wrong plug? Does it only flash on the mocule and where else might the module be? I am completely bewildered and then there is the module under the package deck in the trunk, what is that one for?

 

AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH!

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The key has to be in the ignition on position but not running. The colors of the plugs you connect will be the same color as each other and should both be green. IF your car is an SPFI then it should be behind the strut tower on the drivers side.

 

The ECM is below the steering column but above the plastic trim that is above your legs. Probably has a LED on the side of it that you can read the codes from.

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If the CEL is on, you don't need to plug anything in. Look under the steering column at the black box. You should see an LED flashing. That tells you the codes.

 

The CEL light will never flash a code at you. It'll either be on, off, or in a steady flashing state.

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There are two types of codes. The first type are the very serious codes that cause the engine to run "funny", or not at all. Those codes will light up the CEL, and the code will immediately flash on the monitor lamp of the ECU. No need to connect anything to read these. Generally if one of these is going to come up, it will do it in the first few miles of driving, or sometimes almost as soon as the engine reaches operating temp and trys to enter closed loop operation.

 

The other type of code will only be set in "D-check mode" which stands for "Dealer Check Mode". You have to follow the procedure in the FSM for how this is done, but the first step is to read the stored codes, clear them, and then run the procedure with the green connectors ("test mode") connected. The procedure involves such tasks as reving the engine and holding the RPM's, returning to half throttle for a while, and driving at greater than 5 MPH for a set time period..... etc. It's not just a simple matter of running the thing at idle. It's the diagnostic mode the dealer uses to troubleshoot complaints that are do not immediately impact the operation of the vehicle. There should be a link around here somewhere to a partial 89 FSM in PDF that has the procedure in it.

 

GD

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Engine runs fine, well over 30 mpg(35 last time I checked). Light used to come on when the engine was first started then go out for a while. Then it started to come on when the engine was first started and go out then come back on after the engine got up to temp. Then it finally started coming on all the time and staying on. All this time the engine has run fine with the exception of when it is cold and you try to "get on it". Once it warms up, no problem at all. Will be working on it tomorrow, trying to get some insight.

There are two types of codes. The first type are the very serious codes that cause the engine to run "funny", or not at all. Those codes will light up the CEL, and the code will immediately flash on the monitor lamp of the ECU. No need to connect anything to read these. Generally if one of these is going to come up, it will do it in the first few miles of driving, or sometimes almost as soon as the engine reaches operating temp and trys to enter closed loop operation.

 

The other type of code will only be set in "D-check mode" which stands for "Dealer Check Mode". You have to follow the procedure in the FSM for how this is done, but the first step is to read the stored codes, clear them, and then run the procedure with the green connectors ("test mode") connected. The procedure involves such tasks as reving the engine and holding the RPM's, returning to half throttle for a while, and driving at greater than 5 MPH for a set time period..... etc. It's not just a simple matter of running the thing at idle. It's the diagnostic mode the dealer uses to troubleshoot complaints that are do not immediately impact the operation of the vehicle. There should be a link around here somewhere to a partial 89 FSM in PDF that has the procedure in it.

 

GD

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