Hocrest Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 I went to put new struts on the 3-Door today. The backs weren't too bad other than some rust. Before I realized that it was welded, I did manage to break the weld on the nut at the bottom mount. The other side was easier... On the fronts, what all needs to be disconected to give room to slide the old strut out of the top of the knuckle. And then back in. I just about managed to do the passenger side by undoing the sway bar mount and the tie rod. But the new strut still isn't seated all the way into the knuckle. The most I could get it with a jack and BFH still left about an inch to drop. I took it for a short drive tonight and it dropped about 1/2 inch, I guess I'll take it for another drive tomorrow and aim for some potholes?? I'm guessing that there is an easier way to do this?? Any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 sounds like you've got the right idea. I usually wedge something like a big fat screwdriver or chisel in between where the pinch bolt goes on the top of the knuckle, spray a crapload of WD-40 or PB Blaster on it, put the wheel on, and put it on the ground. That usualy gets it. otherwise, a little weight on the fender does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hocrest Posted October 20, 2006 Author Share Posted October 20, 2006 How about for dissasembly when I go to do the drivers side? Is the sway bar and tie rod the best way to get it?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 They rust into the knuckle so what i have done is to twist them with a big channellock plier or beat them with a sledge. Make sure you got that little bolt out of the knuckle though...i forgot that one once. If all else fails disconnect the tie rod end, unroute the brake line (you had to do that anyway), pull the axle (pull balljoint bolt) and pull the whole knuckle with the strut attached and attack the beast off the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 I also take the lower control arm loose - it's just one bolt. The extra weight of the whole knuckle pulling down helps to free them. Although I have to give the "expertise" nod towards the poor folks in the rusty states. Out here that's not even a problem really. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruguru Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 omg lol i have a lot of experiance in theas the last tw osoobs iv had had bad struts but they are smoken easy once you do it a feew times but to get the nuckle in. just use a chizl and wedge it in the gap on the botom of the strut then lower it ontop of the nuckle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 A small chisel will make removal and installation a breeze. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 How about for dissasembly when I go to do the drivers side? Is the sway bar and tie rod the best way to get it?? I don't even undo the tie rod. just the sway bar should give it enough downward travel to get it. otherwise, loosen the nut on the end of the radius rod, that helps quite a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 you can cut the brake line bracket with a hacksaw - right in the middle - and spread it open to avoid opening the brake lines. Cut the new strut's bracket as well and afterwards it will stay bent closed as well as allow use of the retaining clip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 you can cut the brake line bracket with a hacksaw - right in the middle - and spread it open to avoid opening the brake lines. Cut the new strut's bracket as well and afterwards it will stay bent closed as well as allow use of the retaining clip. yep, I actually like to use a cut-off wheel on my dremel to make 2 cuts, about an inch apart. this way the line will easily slide out of the holder, and when put back in, the clip will hold it in place perfectly. or, like I did on my lifted wagon when I put the braided SS lines on it, just don't run them through the bracket, and use a zip-tie to hold them clear of the wheel.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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