Oil Filter?

[jon38iowa]

I just had the ej25 SOHC engine rebuilt on my Forester; My question is this:

Has anyone here used the Frantz (by-pass oil filter) on their Subaru, and is it possible to use it in addition to the standard oil filter? Note I change the oil religiously every 3k sometimes sooner depending on conditions.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

John

[The Dude]

I just had the ej25 SOHC engine rebuilt on my Forester; My question is this:

Has anyone here used the Frantz (by-pass oil filter) on their Subaru, and is it possible to use it in addition to the standard oil filter? Note I change the oil religiously every 3k sometimes sooner depending on conditions.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

John

 

So that we can all learn something, please tell us why was the engine rebuilt? How many miles on the engine when you had it rebuilt? Thanks. You seem like a very conscientious owner, so I'm extra curious as to why the engine failed.

[jon38iowa]

So that we can all learn something, please tell us why was the engine rebuilt? How many miles on the engine when you had it rebuilt? Thanks. You seem like a very conscientious owner, so I'm extra curious as to why the engine failed.

Firstly I bought the car used (abused and once overheated) with over a 100K. It was good deal and I am glad because I've put quite abit of $ into it: Its had some body work, new factory carpet, wheels & tires, all new struts, and a lot was spent trying to eke out a few more miles from the engine, such as it was.

The engine had a slight knock when I got it, however it ran smoothly and was liveable. Gradualy over time it became louder, moreover I tried all the quick fixes- having it flushed, seafoam, slick 50, valve adjustment, the entire nine yards, furthermore it really didn't help. It was so loud (not the exhaust) recently I had a headache by the time I got to where I was going!

At my mechanics suggestion I decided to have it overhauled(133K). I am told by the machine shop the ring skirts "were horrible."

I am hoping with good care it will last many more trouble free miles,moreover, I am told first hand these Frantz by- pass filters are worth it, e.g., American made cars from the 70's exceeding 200k trouble free. At any rate I am going to give a try with my now tight ( infamous) 2.5 engine.

[porcupine73]

I haven't run the Frantz bypass system, but I do run the amsoil eabp series bypass on both my suby's with no issues and I have gotten excellent used oil analysis results. Not sure if it's cost effective or not yet. Is the frantz the one that uses the toilet paper rolls?

[jon38iowa]

I haven't run the Frantz bypass system, but I do run the amsoil eabp series bypass on both my suby's with no issues and I have gotten excellent used oil analysis results. Not sure if it's cost effective or not yet. Is the frantz the one that uses the toilet paper rolls?

Yes it is the toilet paper type; The amsoil sysytem looks easier to install (and does same thing), but since its more expensive to replace filters I am torn on which way to go.

[porcupine73]

The tp filter works very well from what I've seen esp. if you use the right kind of tp. I didn't really want the mess/hassle of changing the tp fairly often, plus you need makeup oil every time you change the tp (or any filter of course). I use the big eabp110's which are 2qt capacity filters and I think it would last 30k miles before needing a change because it's full.

 

If you have an AT I would consider some sort of bypass or bypass used as a full flow for the ATF probably before worrying about the engine oil. For this purpose on my 4eat phase II I run two eabp110's (in parallel) in series with the cooler circuit, plus that gives me an additional gallon ATF capacity.

[99obw]

The OCD part of me (dominant) really wants one of these systems, but the practical side of me will not allow it.

 

From a practical point of view I am a skeptic of these systems, especially in this part of the country, as rust will kill a car long before the engine wear that can be mitigated by a bypass filter, unless the car is driven an insane number of miles per year (>40k?). I don't doubt that excellent filtration can extend the life of an engine, but virtually any well cared for engine nowadays can last 200k, well beyond most peoples' tolerance for a particular vehicle. Engines also typically outlast most of the other systems in a car. I have yet to junk a car with a bad engine, and I've driven countless cars into the ground. I did replace a turbocharged dodge engine once, though I doubt a bypass filter would have prevented a burned piston.

[jon38iowa]

The tp filter works very well from what I've seen esp. if you use the right kind of tp. I didn't really want the mess/hassle of changing the tp fairly often, plus you need makeup oil every time you change the tp (or any filter of course). I use the big eabp110's which are 2qt capacity filters and I think it would last 30k miles before needing a change because it's full.

 

If you have an AT I would consider some sort of bypass or bypass used as a full flow for the ATF probably before worrying about the engine oil. For this purpose on my 4eat phase II I run two eabp110's (in parallel) in series with the cooler circuit, plus that gives me an additional gallon ATF capacity.

 

Thanks for th responce. I am leaning toward the tp method ( probably scotts brand) . Could you clarrify what you are referring to by eabp110's? Never mind, I missed your first post.

 

99OBW I respect your view point, however I no longer fall in the replacement car catagory. Not now because Subarus are so well made.

Our weather here in Iowa is brutal, moreover we can have very extreme temperature changes(30'-60')within 24 hours (causing moisture fromation).

My last cars engine (bought new) lasted only only 120K, body and interior was still excellent. In this climate I simply think the engine needs a cleaner oil.

Rust is an issue, but I am a car nut and not only, treat(coat) the underside every year, but also wash every snowfall or its aftermath. So far my '99 shows no rust.

Again in different local or under other circumstances(buying a new car every 4-5years), I would not spend the money on these by-pass filters.

After I install and drive it awhile, I will be sending in an oil sample for analysis.

[99obw]

I respect your point of view as well, I would have the same attitude toward car care if salt didn't destroy my vehicles so quickly. I work on a road with a huge salt mine, so much salt is on the road in the winter that it actually makes it greasy. Our vehicles have shown a significant increase in the rate of deterioration since moving to this locale.

 

I think that UOA can guide a person to longevity with nearly any engine in nearly any conditions. When I drove 110 miles a day I had some awesome UOA's at over 10k miles on ordinary full flow filtration and group IV synthetics. I eagerly await a 6 month OCI UOA on my current 1.5 mile commute with group III 5w-40 HDEO, it should be greusome! I am looking into an oil/coolant heat exchanger to reduce fuel and water contamination in the Jeep and increase average oil temperatures with the short commute. I'm also using an extremely high VI 0w-30 for winter, if I were a risk taker I'd use a 0w-20 or 5w-20, my wear rates might actually be lower, even in the stovebolt 4.0.

 

I should also mention the reduction in reliability of the lubrication system in general as a result of external components, I'd be willing to guess an order of magnitude is not out of range, not because they are overly problematic, but because the stock systems are nearly 100% reliable.

 

Sorry to derail this otherwise productive discussion, just playing devils advocate as is my nature. Wishing you the longest possible ownership experience!

[porcupine73]

The bypass filter not only reduces engine wear, but can also significantly increase the OCI (on a quality oil that has a sufficient TBN, not getting overly fuel diluted, etc.). From a cost standpoint, it is possible to save money with bypass filters and increased OCI's probably more so in OTR trucks than it is in passenger vehicles.

 

Also, if the interest of the bypass filter is for reduced wear, it might be of use to consider oil preinjection such as from a canton-mecca accusump to shoot a quart of oil or so before startup.

 

Are either of these necessary in a passenger car? Probably not, as there sure are lots of Suby's and other vehicles making plenty of miles on the engine without them and as already stated it is likely other systems will have issues before the engine wears out.