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1987 Subie gl wagon w/turbo no termostat


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.... and bad coolant temp sensor.

 

 

Got down to 36F tonight and its really running like a dog... I know the coolant sensor is going cause I have to hold the pedal al the way to start it sometimes... and i also dont have a thermostat.... would this make it run like 3 cyclinders? pop fizz... no power and so on.

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A bad thermo sensor will confuse the ecu and make it run uber rich, which could cause a running rough problem.

 

I'd replace the t-stat asap, it will make your car run so cool that fuel will collect on the cylinder walls and that will ruin your cylinders in no time. also it doesn't pull adequate heat from the motor, so your sensor will read cold, but there will be parts of your motor that will be overheating.

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A bad thermo sensor will confuse the ecu and make it run uber rich, which could cause a running rough problem.

 

I'd replace the t-stat asap, it will make your car run so cool that fuel will collect on the cylinder walls and that will ruin your cylinders in no time. also it doesn't pull adequate heat from the motor, so your sensor will read cold, but there will be parts of your motor that will be overheating.

 

Good advice , but the gods of humur have fun with me.. im broke and starting a new job tomorrow.

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The car isnt runnung as bad today as last night. I have had to floor it a couple of times.... what could get causing the injector to make an apparent flood?

 

I never get the 2nd bolt hole drilled on thermostat housing and as things always go for me.... the charger for my drill is blowing fuses... I might be able to charge it off the car though with some minor rewireing.

 

Does the socalled coolant temp sensor exist in the 87gl? Is it purely the lack of a thermostat thats causing the car to use more gas , run like crap and sometimes blow black smoke?

 

Robert

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what engine? 87 wagon is EA82 i think?

 

if you ever get a check engine light you need to find the code. a bad water temp sensor should throw a code (but i've seen them not). additionally, i've never seen a failed water temp sensor. it's usually corrossion at the connection/harness. huge issue on %50+ of the subaru's i've had. i have a write up at http://www.xt6.net on how to permanently address this issue. basically install new wire and solder it directly to the water temp sensor. i have pictures and details there (and i think i posted it here as well).

 

on multiple occaissions i've run subaru's without thermostats before and while i don't recommend it, it didn't cause any noticeable running issues at all.

 

how old is the ignition system? plugs, wires, cap rotor? i'm guessing plugs/wires may alleviate this as well.

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This is getting critical now...

 

A cel comes on when I start the engine and then the car will run untill the thing is just too flooded to run. I noticed some sparking from one of the wire that are supposed to be life time.. My brother is going to bring me some old wires from my dads garage.... something to try anyway... the new set that I have to pay for anyway.... wont be in until tomorrow.

 

The boot melted off the end of the wire near the cap (rear plug driver side) and I can see it arcing to the top of the cap and it feels like spegetti and if one is this way maybe they all are.

 

Yeah... might need a new cap too... but I hope not.

 

Robert

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I would suggest replacing the plug also that goes to that bad wire. The plug may be bad and if so, that is what caused the wire to go bad.

 

Sounds like a good idea.... but I have to wonder , a side from closing the gap Ive never had a plug fail like this.... these plugs are like 3 weeks old and all gapped to .040.

 

Robert

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The plug might not be the problem but it may be bad internally. If it is bad the spark will seek the least resistance to ground which may be through the plug boot. You don't want to go through another plug wire if the plug is bad so that is why I suggest a new plug be put in. The problem may also have been caused by not seating the wire on the plug properly.

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The plug might not be the problem but it may be bad internally. If it is bad the spark will seek the least resistance to ground which may be through the plug boot. You don't want to go through another plug wire if the plug is bad so that is why I suggest a new plug be put in. The problem may also have been caused by not seating the wire on the plug properly.

 

Plug changed and wires changed.... one of the later came apart in my hand as I put the new ones on.... Napa just exchanged em for me and I diddnt have to pay.

 

Thanks

 

Robert

 

Seems to have cured the major problem.... sometimes I still have to floor it to start it... but even then it starts after a few seconds... so I still have a minor problem somewhere.

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The plugs are charcoal black.... I might try a heavy dose injector clearer and force it to run? Maybe something is forcing the injector to over feed... I have never seen anything like this before.

 

Clue;s idea's suggestions? Im well stumped.

 

Good wires , good plugs (cept they are black as night)

 

Is this purely mechanical or is there some sensor that would cause it to flood this bad?

 

In short...

 

HELP :)

 

Robert

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The plugs are charcoal black.... I might try a heavy dose injector clearer and force it to run? Maybe something is forcing the injector to over feed... I have never seen anything like this before.

 

Clue;s idea's suggestions? Im well stumped.

 

Good wires , good plugs (cept they are black as night)

 

Is this purely mechanical or is there some sensor that would cause it to flood this bad?

 

In short...

 

HELP :)

 

Robert

Did you put a t stat in it yet? Even my carbed car would run rich without t stat. If you cant afford one right now put a piece of card board over 50% of your radiator in front of ac condenser. This will make it run hotter,and if it helps the problem you know that its the lack of t stat. If so get a t stat.:grin:
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This is really hard to ID , There is a sensor for the gauge under the thermostat housing... Of course there is a fan sensor in the radiator. I looked at a picture of one at advance auto.... basic brass sensor with 2 wires... and some of the other post on here suggest its on the rear of the intake....

 

On the bright side... while running it with hi dose injector cleaner I think I found where the coolant leak is.... cant be sure in the dark but its flowing from 1 of 2 hoses right by the injector , if fact its blowing onto the heater hoses but not from the heater hoses Im pretty sure.

 

Another respondant suggested that the problem with this sensor is more often a bad connection.... for the moment il move on that suggestion and also continue hi dose cleaners...

 

If I sound calm.... Im really not.... just going through the steps.

 

Thanks for all the kind advice.

 

Robert

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I should also like to add at this point that my brother (the one who gave me subie) has kindly loaned me his mustang(86 maybe).... which by odd coincidence is in many ways in worse shape. But it gets me around... the clutch has a way differant feel and it needs to be adjusted badly.... I dont think my brother would understand... I had the same issue with subie.

 

Robert

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Some progress I think.... I put two bottle of cleaner in the tank last night... didnt do much at that point... the CEL was on most of the time... After reading in this message area I cleaned the injector down the throat and cleaned the MAF sensor (Still cant find the Coolant temp Sensor).

 

It took a bit to start and I got the most incredible cloud of white smoke.... after a few Min's the CEL went off and the idle started to even out some and evened out when I rev it..... its almost normal now but it still has to go pedal to the floor to start... which it does do.

 

I have only taken it around the block a couple of times... IL be honest , this car scares me and has for a while.

 

The Leak has re masked.... like it was never there , I have been pulling and prodding the hoses and it wont reoccur.

 

First chance I get... im out of this car.

 

Thanks

Robert

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