Flakey ignition- sometimes it starts, sometimes it dont

[211]

I have an 85 GL wagon automatic. Lately when I try and start the car I get nothing; no 'Click', no lights, no nothing, as if the battery were disconnected. If I keep bumping the key sometimes it will decide to start. Most of the time however it starts just fine. The battery is less than 6mos old and the teminals are clean. This happens to my wife more than me but she says the neighbor gives her a jump and it starts just fine, but I know it's not the battery, maybe a faulty relay somewhere between the battery and the ignition switch?

 

Someone have any ideas?

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

Usually, a Rusted Clables / Contacts on the Main Fusible Links (That`s the Black rectangular Box, in the Coolant Reservoir, near the Battery) can do that, even with a good Battery.

 

I suggest to Check `em Out.

 

Good Luck.

[GeneralDisorder]

Sadly, this is all too common.

 

The problem is the ignition switch itself - it doesn't pass enough current to the starter solenoid.

 

It's made worse in the automatic because of the inhibitor switch in the shifter mechanism. I'm not 100% sure I've got it completely licked in the one I've been messing with, but after installing a relay in the starter solenoid power circuit it helped quite a bit. She says it still does it now and then, but I can never get it to perform for me - I have a feeling she just hasn't got it in park all the way or something. Lately I haven't heard her complain about it in about a month and it's getting colder here so I'm hoping it's fixed

 

GD

[211]

Sadly, this is all too common.

 

The problem is the ignition switch itself - it doesn't pass enough current to the starter solenoid.

 

It's made worse in the automatic because of the inhibitor switch in the shifter mechanism. I'm not 100% sure I've got it completely licked in the one I've been messing with, but after installing a relay in the starter solenoid power circuit it helped quite a bit. She says it still does it now and then, but I can never get it to perform for me - I have a feeling she just hasn't got it in park all the way or something. Lately I haven't heard her complain about it in about a month and it's getting colder here so I'm hoping it's fixed

 

GD

 

I'll check the fusable link since that's easy enough but in the meantime can you ellaborate on the relay you installed? Installed or Replaced? Where's it located, and is it a fairly inexpensive fix?

 

Thanks.

[Cougar]

As with the others I would say this problem is either with the fusible link contacts, the ignition switch connector, or the ignition relay. My info for a '88 model shows the relay is connected to a brown socket near the steering column. I don't think the inhibit switch is the trouble since the problem is causing a outage to all the dash power. A bad inhibit switch would only cause a starting problem.

[daeron]

click for a thread where i talked about installing a junkyard relay for the starter..

 

but if you are turning the key, and all power dies, I would wager more towards fusible link problems. The two issues could well be having a chicken-and-egg session with your car, but the relay would solve the starter/ignition switch side. to check the fusible link side, try wiggling all four (but especially the rear most) fusible links in the little black box behind the battery, mounted to the shock tower. Next time it "dies," hop out and try those links, leaving the key in the on position. you should hear your radio fire back up, and any other associated noises with your car in the "on" position as soon as you find the faulty contact, and wiggle it. otherwise, try replacing the stock battery cable terminals.. the cables are OK sometimes, but the stamped-out, copper sheetmetal factory terminals need to go in the garbage after 20 years of service. Wiggle around until you find your magic wire, and replace that thing as soon as you can.

[GeneralDisorder]

Well - the "crank" circuit is VERY simple. I would deal with that circuit top to bottom as my first troubleshooting step. You might solve all your problems when you find the problem there.

 

Check the fuseable links first as pointed out - that's an easy one. Also check the battery terminals.

 

If all that checks out, pull the plastic under the column and take a look at the pink 6 prong connector for the ignition switch itself - sometimes there is so much heat from repeat cranking attempts that the wires will melt the plastic and short out.

 

If you find nothing still, then install a relay on the firewall near the starter. Power it with a fused 12 guage from the battery positive to the solenoid terminal on the starter. Use the existing wire going to the starter terminal to control the relay. Basically you are using the existing ignition switch crank circuit to power up the relay which will give the starter perfect, clean power directly from the battery and by-pass the corroded, pitted contacts of the ignition switch. See the link above the Dearon gave for more info on this.

 

Having to add a relay here is VERY common. It's so common in fact that at the show this year I started someone's car with a small jumper wire because their switch went bad and would only click.

 

GD