mellow65 Posted November 21, 2006 Author Share Posted November 21, 2006 Local place called "Discount Import Parts". They have two locations here - Beaverton, and Milwaukie(?). They specialize in VW, but have parts for virtually everything on the import scale. Great prices, lots of Redline and specialty fluids, etc. They had the NGK's (plugs and wires) in stock for the EA82. They also have OEM brand oil pumps for $65! GD Oh i know that place, great place. I go there to get my Bosch relays. It great when I go to any other store and ask for a universal Bosch relay and I get the blank deer in the head lights look. And then when you ask these guys they walk in the back and hand you exactly what i was looking for. It's good times. Well just called them, wasn't $18 but still in the market of other "high quality" plug wires that you get at the parts place. And by "high quality" I mean crappy no name "this is the best we have" wires. Going to go pick them up and we shall see if that helps, if it does I'm so taking those crappy ones back and getting my money back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger87ea82t Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 If you get around to pulling your fuel pump, look into the inlet side of it, there will be a plastic mesh screen in there. Pop it out with a pointed awl or small screwdriver. I had a fuel delivery problem on my 87 t-wagon and after changing everything I could think of I decided there was something in the tank floating around plugging the pickup tube. I changed out the gas tank and was looking over the 3 fuel pumps I had deciding which one to put back in and I noticed the screen. Two of the pumps screens were plugged so much you couldnt see through them and one was about 2/3's plugged. After cleaning the screen it accelerated great. Good luck!.......Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellow65 Posted November 22, 2006 Author Share Posted November 22, 2006 If you get around to pulling your fuel pump, look into the inlet side of it, there will be a plastic mesh screen in there. Pop it out with a pointed awl or small screwdriver. I had a fuel delivery problem on my 87 t-wagon and after changing everything I could think of I decided there was something in the tank floating around plugging the pickup tube. I changed out the gas tank and was looking over the 3 fuel pumps I had deciding which one to put back in and I noticed the screen. Two of the pumps screens were plugged so much you couldnt see through them and one was about 2/3's plugged. After cleaning the screen it accelerated great. Good luck!.......Roger Man I got all sorts planned now for this weekend. Clean the fuel pump screen swap new plug wires I even got a new thermostat too, it's been running pretty cold lately now that the weather has changed. Man I should start the "if you got hesitation try this" thread. Lets start the list. plugs wires cap rotor fuel filter air filter clean and test MAF sensor and housing (mass air flow) clean and test IAC (Idle air control) test TPS (throttle positioning sensor) check timing test CTS (coolant temperature sensor) test O2 sensor (oxygen sensor) fuel pump clean fuel pump inlet screen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mykingcrab Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 H A C valve? I asked for info several months ago,and got some good replies, but my problem was more of a studder/flutter. Is this the same thing that your descibing? type.(85 RX Turbo/87 motor.)85 controls/flapper m.a.f.. it usually runs great under full throttle,but under no loads at an idle it has a couple hesetation flat spots. and in normal driving it has a constant chug chug chug(more annoying than anything) some one said to check the H A C valve. am I correct to assume that this is the valve that supplies vacuum pressure to the a/c controlls for operation. the club member ? said they had chased this problem for ever before they finally figured it out. the h a c valve had an internal leak and was making the air fuel mixture constantly bounce around. I read in the Haines manual that this is a common problem. any ideas? thnx. and I also wanted to ask GD ,I bought some m.a.f. cleaner and was wondering if I should run it thru on the car or revove and clean? thnx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellow65 Posted November 22, 2006 Author Share Posted November 22, 2006 H A C valve?I asked for info several months ago,and got some good replies, but my problem was more of a studder/flutter. Is this the same thing that your descibing? type.(85 RX Turbo/87 motor.)85 controls/flapper m.a.f.. it usually runs great under full throttle,but under no loads at an idle it has a couple hesetation flat spots. and in normal driving it has a constant chug chug chug(more annoying than anything) some one said to check the H A C valve. am I correct to assume that this is the valve that supplies vacuum pressure to the a/c controlls for operation. the club member ? said they had chased this problem for ever before they finally figured it out. the h a c valve had an internal leak and was making the air fuel mixture constantly bounce around. I read in the Haines manual that this is a common problem. any ideas? thnx. and I also wanted to ask GD ,I bought some m.a.f. cleaner and was wondering if I should run it thru on the car or revove and clean? thnx mine is more under load but doesn't have to be just under full throttle it can be under part throttle when trying to accelerate quickly. but if you want to drive it like grandma and be real easy on the throttle then you get no hesitation. odd. well the hunt is still on for me. thank god this is my winter car and not my DD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mykingcrab Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 Yep, all around the world same song,have (anyone), you ever heard of this h a c valve? your discription sounds exactly like what mine does. what to do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 It was $22 for NGK wires, and 4 NGK plugs..... I just assumed the plugs were $1 each. That was on Friday of last week.... The guy did have a heck of a time figureing out the part number - first quoting me $95 and then he realized that was for some model of Mercedes . Could be the case with the phone quote. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 and I also wanted to ask GD ,I bought some m.a.f. cleaner and was wondering if I should run it thru on the car or revove and clean? thnx MAF cleaner only applies to the hot-wire style. I have no idea how to clean your flapper style..... it's probably not possible. It uses a hinged door attached to something very much like the TPS. I'm sure you can spray it down and make sure it works smoothly, but I don't think you can do much with the resistor/wiper element itself. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellow65 Posted November 22, 2006 Author Share Posted November 22, 2006 It was $22 for NGK wires, and 4 NGK plugs..... I just assumed the plugs were $1 each. That was on Friday of last week.... The guy did have a heck of a time figureing out the part number - first quoting me $95 and then he realized that was for some model of Mercedes . Could be the case with the phone quote. GD damn that sucks i paid $38 for mine. Oh well its not the end of the world. if it works thats nothing to pay for fixing the problem, if not well who the hell knows. either way im taking back the other plug wires and telling them they were causing my hesitation problem, guess thats the nice thing about life time warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellow65 Posted November 22, 2006 Author Share Posted November 22, 2006 Yep, all around the world same song,have (anyone), you ever heard of this h a c valve? your discription sounds exactly like what mine does. what to do? i have heard of a HVAC but not a HAV but i thought you said yours only did it under idle to light throttle not full throttle, mine is heavy to full throttle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 damn that sucks i paid $38 for mine. Oh well its not the end of the world. if it works thats nothing to pay for fixing the problem, if not well who the hell knows. either way im taking back the other plug wires and telling them they were causing my hesitation problem, guess thats the nice thing about life time warranty. I've noticed two things about Discount - first they will heavily discount things that have been on the shelf forever - I've had them do that with brake pads before, etc - and the box for these wires looks pretty faded like it's been on the shelf a while. Second they have a lot of "leeway" in their prices. The guys seem to be free to make up whatever price they want for stuff - when I bought a brand new Redline weber kit a few years back I gave them the best price I could find on the internet and he looked at the computer, thought about it, then said "yeah - I could do that" I frequent the Mcgloughlin store a lot, so they know me and I'm usually treated pretty good on priceing.... same with Lithia Subaru on Oregon City. Talk to Lea - she's the parts manager and always hooks me up with wholesale. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhise Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 I recently picked up a 93 Loyale and it has the same mentioned hesitation issues. Mine seem to be MAF related. I cleaned it up real good and reset the computer and it runs perfect now, but the MAF appears to be on it's way out because I can tap on it with a screwdriver handle and it will make the engine stumble..... cheers, Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyonlyon Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 I recently picked up a 93 Loyale and it has the same mentioned hesitation issues. Mine seem to be MAF related. I cleaned it up real good and reset the computer and it runs perfect now, but the MAF appears to be on it's way out because I can tap on it with a screwdriver handle and it will make the engine stumble..... cheers, Doug How do you reset the computer after cleaning the MAF? Cheers Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhise Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 How do you reset the computer after cleaning the MAF? Cheers Jeff I just unhooked the battery and turned on the headlights to drain any residual charges in the electrical system. -Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellow65 Posted November 25, 2006 Author Share Posted November 25, 2006 Drum roll please. crappy plug wires I replaced the crap ones i got from schucks with the NGKs and the hessitation was gone. Just goes to show you that cheaper is just that, cheaper. Spend the couple of more dollars and get a quaity set of NGKs or other set of quality plug wires and stay away from the cheap crap that all these parts places are selling now a days. I'm still going to check the little screen in the fuel pump and clean the IAC just to make everything tip top. I hope this helped anyone that has the same problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 25, 2006 Share Posted November 25, 2006 hey, feels good to finally have it kicked though! remember this if you ever get an EJ vehicle (legacy/impreza/etc), they are 20 times worse in the ignition wire department, those motors hate hate hate aftermarket wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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