MTSuby Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 When you replace the rear drum brakes, to get the 36" nut off, do you just put it in 4wd and crank against it? I feel like I'm going to break something. Just wondering if this is the right way, and if anyone has any other advice about what I may run into replacing the rear drum brakes & cylinders. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 There's a cotter pin . If thats removed, i'd spray it down liberally with BP B'laster or some other penetrating oil, WD-40 won't cut it. Then wait a few days if you can, spraying every few hours, or when ever you get the chance. then go to town, as long as you follow lefty loosy righty tighty, you won't break the bolt or the stub shaft. Thats not to say you won't break your socket or breaker bar, but the car itself won't break before craftsman's 1/2 inch breaker bar will. If you know any mechanics in the area, you might get them to quick hit the nut loose and tighten it again for you for cheap/free with a impact gun. Once its been loosened once it'll come off much easier the next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syonyk Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 Yea, 4WD, ebrake to max, remove the cotter pin, and stand on the breaker bar. If it's still trying to move, have someone stand on the brakes. ... beyond that? Impact wrench. I suspect you could also, if desperate, try using the engine to undo the nut. Set the breaker bar on the ground in the appropriate direction, and try to creep the car forwards or backwards to pop things free. -=Russ=- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 A 3 ft length of pipe on the breaker bar usually gets something happening. If your socket or breaker bar disintegrate, at least you are that much further away from it! I always lift up on breaker bars, as legs can exert a lot more force than body weight. Back straight, usual caveats for lifting heavy loads. Leave the wheel on and not jacked up, 4wd on, in 1st gear, hand brake on full, right to the last notch. I did my rear brakes last weekend. Pretty easy, once the hub nuts are off. The pistons love to pop out when putting the shoes on, but it is probably time to bleed all the old brake fluid out of the system anyway. The drums go back on easier if you scrape off the rim of rust where the shoes don't ride. Don't forget the antiseize on the hub spindle when reassembling. It will make the job easier next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 I've been known to jump on the breaker bar with the car on the ground. I just hold onto the roof rack (wagon) and jump on the bar. 250# jumping usually breaks it loose. I use a 3/4" breaker bar with a 1/2" adapter on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 yea, leave the car on the ground and break it loose. Same goes for when you tighten it after you're done. -Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indrid cold Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 I took about a 3/4" thick, 12" wide & 20" inch tall, plywood/particle board, drilled 4 holes (on 1/3rd end of board) for the tire studs and one in center big enough to allow socket onto middle nut, with wheel off I can slide this onto the studs so the board is just off the ground, put socken on axe nut and turn the nut and the board corner will jam on the ground preventing the axel from turning. I can loosen/tighten axel nuts in this manner without having the tire on the car etc.. I adjust elevation of car and distance of board too ground by using jack and stand on end of wrench... also when I am at the Subaru dealer I buy half dozen axel cotter pins and leave some in the glove box just too have them available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTSuby Posted November 13, 2006 Author Share Posted November 13, 2006 Cool, thanks everyone. Yeah, I should have mentioned just in case that I had already taken the cotter pins out:rolleyes: Ok, I'll get something better than WD-40 and I'll really crank on them without worrying about breaking my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 This will do it every time with ease: VW 36mm axle nut tool for older busses: http://www.bfyobsoleteparts.com/volkswagen/beetle/36mm-Rear-Axle-Nut-Removal-Tool-p-17.html GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 a 3/4" socket set works wonders and is well worth the $ if you plan on working on cars indefinitely. they break them loose instantly every time. i've broken three 1/2" breaker bars and sockets. if you don't want to spring for that, then try all the above methods, using a hammer on the end of your socket works too - wail it hard, it's the poor mans impact wrench. a jack under the socket, lifting up (with legs)...there's lots of ways to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTSuby Posted November 14, 2006 Author Share Posted November 14, 2006 Oh boy, this is gonna be fun! Thanks for the tips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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