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Four hours?! Maybe your '92 Legacy is easier than my '99 Outback, but that's still a fast job!

 

Mine took me a good part of three days, I estimate about 12-14 hours to get it out. My new long block (CCR rebuild) is bolted into place now, and I'm guessing at least 8 hours for me to get everything else put back.

 

Of course, I don't do this very often, and I work very carefully and methodically. I'm cleaning and anti-seizing everything that needs it. I'm also torquing everything to spec (less about 25% to 33% to account for the anti-seize where used).

 

Anyway, good luck to you!

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I guess subaru engines must be more complicated than Toyota 22RE truck engines. I pulled mine (and put it back in)a couple months ago to fix a coolant leak/broken bolt in the back of the engine in about 5 hours from start to finish.

 

Haven't had a reason to pull my EJ22 out yet. I was told they're very easy to do though. I'm sure it's got to be easier than pulling the 4EAT. I had to do that right off the bat when I got the car.

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<<I'm also torquing everything to spec (less about 25% to 33% to account for the anti-seize where used).>>

 

what bolts are you putting the anti sieze on? theres very few bolts that call for anti sieze on a subaru motor. they rely more on properly torqued bolts. i think you said you put a long block in, so the most important torqu bolts are already done for you.

 

its true, the more you work on these subarus, the faster you'll get at doing things. when i first started, it took me a while to get things done. now i can get a EJ series engine out of the car in an hour. its alot easier to take it out whole, then put in on a engine stand to take the accesories off. its less wear and tear on your back!

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what bolts are you putting the anti sieze on? theres very few bolts that call for anti sieze on a subaru motor. they rely more on properly torqued bolts. i think you said you put a long block in, so the most important torqu bolts are already done for you.

 

I'm anti-seizing anything that has exposed threads, or is at the bottom and likely to be splashed by salt water in winter. The very bottom studs that connect the engine and transmission, for example. Exhaust fasteners, exhaust manifold studs, motor mount studs. The bolts connecting the front and rear timimg cover get anti-seize to avoid breaking the rear cover next time they have to come out. The tiny M6 screws that hold things like the fans to the radiator and the washer fluid bottle also get anit-seize because they break often.

 

You're right, though, most things on the engine don't need the anti-seize.

 

I know the important fasteners are already torqued properly, but I guess I'm just obsessive about doing it by the book. So, I use a torque wrench on just about everything.

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out and in, legacy motor, under 2 hours :banana:

 

D***! Way to go Noah! I can usually have 'em out in under an hour, but I'm still kinda slow at the install just because I like to be careful and triple-check all the little bits, so that takes about two to three hours.

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