autobob Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 I have a 1989 GL 1.8 L w/ FI. I am replacing the head gaskets and need to know if there is supposed to be a gasket between the casting for the head and the cam. The CAM Casting has a grove all the way around it and when I removed it I had to dig out what appeard to be an old gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 RTV, and don't forget to replace the oil passage o-ring with one from the DEALER ONLY. It's not a normal o-ring, but a special metal-reinforced one that won't collapse under pressure. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marck Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 Actually, use anaerobic sealant by permatex or locktite. The o-rings are part number: 13089aa010 You will need two of these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 Actually, use anaerobic sealant by permatex or locktite. The o-rings are part number: 13089aa010 You will need two of these. NO. Anaerobic sealant is for use where no oxygen is present (that's the definition of anaerobic - it cures in the absence of oxygen), and for FLAT machined flange surfaces. Besides that it's 4 times as expensive and totally uneccesary. The factory used RTV, and took the time to put the groove there to hold it. Anaerobic is used between the block halves - not on the cam cases. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 Wow, finally I disagree with General Disorder on something! Anaerobic sealant works great for cam towers. I've done it many times and haven't had any leaks yet. I've also seen countless soobs with RTV in there that leaked. Often badly. Yes, anaerobic sealant cures in the absence of air. There's no air in there when you tighten the bolts down and clamp the mating surfaces together. I've taken apart a couple of engines in which anaerobic sealant was used, and yes, it does harden all the way through. The main benefit of anaerobic sealant is that the extra stuff that gets squeezed out never hardens. Extra RTV hardens into little globules that break off and get into oil passages and try to clog the pickup screen (a common problem on certain Ford engines, according to one of my auto professors). Now, the factory can get away with RTV because they have special machines that apply only the exact right amount. You or I can't do that, so there's always going to be some extra in there, and I'd rather not take that chance. There's my schpeel. Use what you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 You do have to be careful with the amount of RTV you use, that's true. But I've never had it leak when a proper, even bead was applied and allowed to cure before the engine was manhandled and started up. Neither have I had any break off in my oil. But that's also possible if you use too much. Anaerobic is just too bloody expensive to use where it's not needed IMO, and just as with RTV, a careful even bead must be applied to insure no leaks. For the reccord, the FSM calls for RTV. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 ...For the reccord, the FSM calls for RTV... 89 FSM (and I believe 85 FSM, but it is not in front of me) specifies Threebond 1215, which I have been told is equivalent to Permatex Anaerobic Sealant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 89 FSM (and I believe 85 FSM, but it is not in front of me) specifies Threebond 1215, which I have been told is equivalent to Permatex Anaerobic Sealant. No-lookie like any anearobic stuff I've ever seen: http://www.threebond.co.jp/en/product/series/sealants/popup/1200/1215popup.html That dookie-lookin thing looks a lot like Ultra Grey to my eyes.... Additionally, my haynes manual say specifically "RTV". GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 ...dookie-lookin thing.... I personally would be careful about putting much stock in what Haynes manuals say (hmmph...t-belt installations...hmmph), though I do dislike Chilton's more. FelPro packs UltraBlack for this purpose, so I imagine that it all comes back to being careful with application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 I personally would be careful about putting much stock in what Haynes manuals say (hmmph...t-belt installations...hmmph), though I do dislike Chilton's more. Aint that the retched truth! Neither are very good, but I took a look just to see cause I knew I had seen RTV in *something*. I keep ending up with haynes manuals from cars I've bought so I keep one in the bathroom, and another in the kitchen ya know. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 Aint that the retched truth! Neither are very good, but I took a look just to see cause I knew I had seen RTV in *something*. I keep ending up with haynes manuals from cars I've bought so I keep one in the bathroom, and another in the kitchen ya know. GD HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAA okay guys, now, for the record.. the haynes book for our cars is umbrella'd over EA-71, -81, and -82.. right? 80-89, 1600 and 1800, OHV/OHC ALL right? MOST Hayne's manuals are ALOT better than the one for this car!! Its best to get a recent model vehicle, if its japanese.. because the older japanese car Hayns's books use a British English thats a bit foreign to ours.... so much so that they include the English to American Glossary :grin: BUT for the most part, Hayne's books are superb for the do-it-yourselfer, and reliable enough for torque specs etc for american cars for the more advanced mecahnic who may not need a book to tell him how to bleed his brakes... A Dam' site better than chilton's books by all means, anyhow!!!!!!! The Hayne's for the soob is teh suxx0r, yes.. but haynes isnt a bad word... "Chiltons" isnt something I want to let myself say around my little nephew.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffast Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 2 cents i used ultra black rtv and i have had no trouble so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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