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Hey Guys, i am fairly new to this board and this is my first post.

 

My problem is with my 1997 outback 5sp w/ 125,000miles

 

Story goes, about 3 weeks ago the clutch stopped returning to regular height. It was a sudden occurrence, fine one moment and then just stopped. While driving it home the clutch began to disengage less and less until it got to the point where I was driving without disengaging the clutch.

 

Since then I have done the following.

Replaced hoses, no change in pedal

Replaced slave cylinder, no change

Replaced master cylinder, no change

Bypassed clutch damper, slight change, but still not returning

 

 

Each time this was done I completely flushed the fluid through the system while bleeding. And made sure that there were no bubbles in the bit of hose I was using.

 

For my next step I removed the boot around the slave cylinder while the pedal was at max compression, so the slave cylinder was at it's max extension. I saw that the internal cylinder was extended about 5/8" past the edge of the outer cylinder.

 

My ultimate question is whether or not the next step should be to replace the clutch, and supporting items?

 

It is costly and time consuming, and I am poor. So any other ideas or anyone that might have experienced this already, to either confirm or tell me I am going about this all wrong?

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You could check another Subi and see where the piston is or put some sort of a spacer in between the clutch fork and the piston rod. That would force it in and you could see if you are getting full throw of the fork.

 

Sounds like you may be in for a new clutch.

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Sudden occurance is a mechanical failure, as a slave or master cylinder will be better when cold, worse when hot, or some other weirdness. You may have llost a clip that retains the throw out bearing, so its new clutch time.

 

nipper

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  • 2 weeks later...

Issue found, Turns out the clutch lever is either bent or broken causing it to hit the side of the opening on the bellhousing, could also be that the clip came off and is allowing the lever to float. So the release barring is only contacted on one side, allowing to only extend part way.

 

It is time to pull the trans.

 

Has anyone tried changing the clutch by moving the motor forward on an OBW? And if so can you get to the rear main seal to replace it that way?

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