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I am going to replace the aging injectors on my Forester; The PDF manual shows that to do so one must partially take off the power stearing pump. Is this really a must? Or, could I maneuver around it? Its cold here, and I want to do the least amount of work possible.

Does anyone know: If the sensors in the intake are bad/ weak/ dirty/ will they send a signal to the computer and will this cause a cel to come on? Can I remove these sensors to clean them with carb cleaner?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

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I am going to replace the aging injectors on my Forester; The PDF manual shows that to do so one must partially take off the power stearing pump. Is this really a must? Or, could I maneuver around it? Its cold here, and I want to do the least amount of work possible.

Does anyone know: If the sensors in the intake are bad/ weak/ dirty/ will they send a signal to the computer and will this cause a cel to come on? Can I remove these sensors to clean them with carb cleaner?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

As far as the injectors go, do what ever you need to swap them try to do it without removing extra parts and if you cant get to them then follow the manual. But keep in mind that injecters dont normally go bad to the point that you have to replace them. The only time you can visually check to see if they need replaced is when they are leaking from the plastic housing, if they are not leaking and your car is running ok with good/normal gas milage then just clean them. I would run some lucas injector cleaner through them first. This might help, I hope so.

 

About the sensor in the intake, you can test the sensor with a digital multimeter and refer to you manual to see if the sensor is good. If your car is running and you are getting good gas mileage then it is probably working. If the mass air flow sensor (MAF) which is what I assume that you are talking about is bad your car probably will NOT run. NEVER CLEAN YOUR MAF WITH CARB CLEANER!!! There is only one kind of cleaner for MAFs, this stuff is brand new, use this. It will probably increase fuel efficency, power, idle and stumbling etc... Here look this stuff up.

 

05110.jpg

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I am going to replace the aging injectors on my Forester; The PDF manual shows that to do so one must partially take off the power stearing pump. Is this really a must? Or, could I maneuver around it? Its cold here, and I want to do the least amount of work possible.

Does anyone know: If the sensors in the intake are bad/ weak/ dirty/ will they send a signal to the computer and will this cause a cel to come on? Can I remove these sensors to clean them with carb cleaner?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

CARB CLEANER BAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Use a cleaner that is meant for sensors. Carb cleaner is way too harsh.

 

nipper

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As far as the injectors go, do what ever you need to swap them try to do it without removing extra parts and if you cant get to them then follow the manual. But keep in mind that injecters dont normally go bad to the point that you have to replace them. The only time you can visually check to see if they need replaced is when they are leaking from the plastic housing, if they are not leaking and your car is running ok with good/normal gas milage then just clean them. I would run some lucas injector cleaner through them first. This might help, I hope so.

 

About the sensor in the intake, you can test the sensor with a digital multimeter and refer to you manual to see if the sensor is good. If your car is running and you are getting good gas mileage then it is probably working. If the mass air flow sensor (MAF) which is what I assume that you are talking about is bad your car probably will NOT run. NEVER CLEAN YOUR MAF WITH CARB CLEANER!!! There is only one kind of cleaner for MAFs, this stuff is brand new, use this. It will probably increase fuel efficency, power, idle and stumbling etc... Here look this stuff up.

 

05110.jpg

I was not refering to the MAF Sensor but the rather the two that are attatched to the throttle body.

Recently I had the block completely rebuilt.However, it still doesn't run quite as smooth as I would expect,morever, its not bad ( a little course), just not up to my standards. I want it to run like it just rolled off of the showroom floor.

I noticed before I replaced the PCV that the air box had a sticky film all over it. It is also probably all over the intake mainifold. Fuel economy is excellent.

Thanks for the tip on the spray cleaner, I will buy it.

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Beter question, why are you replacing the injectors. They dont go bad untill over 200,000 miles.

What symptons are you having

 

nipper

I second nipper's motion. If the car runs a little rough, I wouldn't suspect the injectors until they're ancient. I'd suspect almost any other thing over those.
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right before i sold the 90 legacy at 198,000 miles one injector went bad, it ran rough and the cel came on and i pulled code which said "#2 injector inoperative" which i confirmed with ohmmeter. what a pain to replace. it took all my strength to yank out that sucker then the manifold filled with gas because this dingbat forgot to remove gas cap. so i siphoned out gas and put new one in but i wasn't content that it seated fully because it didn't come with a new "insulator". so i cut a small piece of 26 gauge sheetmetal and put it behind the insulator to make up for the lost crush. then car ran fine. the moral- don't replace injectors unnecessarily.

 

if you want it to run smoother try removing the throttle body and thoroughly cleaning it. i did that on a 91 camry and then it idled like new.

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If you're thinking of replacing the injectors, you could just pull them and send them somewhere for cleaning. I pulled mine out and sent them to witchhunterperformance. Anyway, I did pull the steering pump in the process but I was replacing the steering pump anyway. I think you do need to pull the pump because one of the items holding the injectors in place also holds the power steering pump lines. You might get away without removing the steering pump if you unhook the discharge banjo bolt. Anyway you need new o-rings and stuff when putting the new injectors in. This whole thing is a little bit tricky; I ended up sucking air around two of my injectors after the replacement.

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how many miles on this engine? i wouldn't expect noticeable injector performance loss until 150,000 miles. i've had them tested at professional (RC Engineering) injector places and they've shown dripping/leakage but fully functional.

 

if i had a block rebuilt unless it was really low mileage i'd have the injectors professionally cleaned/rebuilt as well. RC does six of them for less than $150, chump change, and that's for six. others, like the one mentioned earlier, are far cheaper. about half the price. they flow test them before and after and replace any parts out of spec.

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right before i sold the 90 legacy at 198,000 miles one injector went bad, it ran rough and the cel came on and i pulled code which said "#2 injector inoperative" which i confirmed with ohmmeter. what a pain to replace. it took all my strength to yank out that sucker then the manifold filled with gas because this dingbat forgot to remove gas cap. so i siphoned out gas and put new one in but i wasn't content that it seated fully because it didn't come with a new "insulator". so i cut a small piece of 26 gauge sheetmetal and put it behind the insulator to make up for the lost crush. then car ran fine. the moral- don't replace injectors unnecessarily.

 

if you want it to run smoother try removing the throttle body and thoroughly cleaning it. i did that on a 91 camry and then it idled like new.

Thanks again to all!

I think I will look at taking off the throttle body for a good cleaning. If I do, is is it required to replace the seals, even if they look OK?

The engine has 140K, moreover, I had the fuel system cleaned and I run a quality cleaner throught it every 4 months. I replaced the: Coil, plugs, wires, air filter, and o2 sensor. Would the cam/crank sensor affect performance without the cel coming on?

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I think it is recommended to replace the gasket even if it looks OK. If you start sucking air anywhere after the MAF sensor then that's unmetered air and could cause driveability issues. Later models sometimes had just a MAP sensor in those cases it might not matter as much but could still cause high or erratic idle.

 

What brand injector cleaning are you running? I've found that after running an initial 'shock dose' if you will, that it is more effective to run a few ounces or whatever you want with every tank. Some of these cleaners are very good (such as redline si-1) but if you read their literature it shows it may take a while for it to completely disolve all the carbon and stuff.

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As far as the injectors go, do what ever you need to swap them try to do it without removing extra parts and if you cant get to them then follow the manual. But keep in mind that injecters dont normally go bad to the point that you have to replace them. The only time you can visually check to see if they need replaced is when they are leaking from the plastic housing, if they are not leaking and your car is running ok with good/normal gas milage then just clean them. I would run some lucas injector cleaner through them first. This might help, I hope so.

 

About the sensor in the intake, you can test the sensor with a digital multimeter and refer to you manual to see if the sensor is good. If your car is running and you are getting good gas mileage then it is probably working. If the mass air flow sensor (MAF) which is what I assume that you are talking about is bad your car probably will NOT run. NEVER CLEAN YOUR MAF WITH CARB CLEANER!!! There is only one kind of cleaner for MAFs, this stuff is brand new, use this. It will probably increase fuel efficency, power, idle and stumbling etc... Here look this stuff up.

 

05110.jpg

Hey Thanks for the advice!

I did as you prescribed for the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Can hardly believe the difference, like night and day! This is even more surprising to me, because the sensor(what I could see of it) didin't look at all dirty.

Thanks again!

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Have you guys seen that CRC MAF cleaner at any of the parts stores yet?

No, I asked, but although the part stores know what it is, don't yet carry it.

I took a chance with the CRC electrical cleaner, moreover, I did a good job of drying it off as it is hard on plastic.

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