Alexx Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 One of my worst car repair nightmares has come to pass because it involves no moving parts and frankly, I should be able to buy a good radiator and not have to worry about it for several years, especially if I am willing to buy the best radiator on the market. The original Subaru Radiator lasted 20 years and only had to be replaced when my smog guy crashed my car while he was driving it. I explained to the radiator shop that I WOULD PAY EXTRA for a radiator that would last if not as long as the original, at least for 6 years or longer. He assured me I was getting an all steel top notch radiator. This top notch radiator has lasted at most three years and is history. I'll start by saying I don't care about price. I mean I do care about price but if the quality difference between a radiator that will only last 2-3 years versus one that will last 6 years or longer is a hundred bucks, I'll gladly spend the extra hundred bucks. Any recommendations for a radiator for my 80's Subaru? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 I can't possibly imagine a new radiator lasting any less than 10 years+ in CA. That's just silly. 3 years isn't long enough for any damage to occur if you never changed the coolant even once. What makes you think the radiator is history if I might ask? GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 I just bought 3 rads from the Radiator Barn(radiatorbarn.com). Top quality, brand new and not overpriced. Theres also Performance Radiator @ 1 877 723-4286. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petersubaru Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 corrosion from the outside on the rad will destroy the poor quality ones very quickly from all the salt that is thrown on the roads where I live and drive...4 or 5 yrs at best..... quote=GeneralDisorder]I can't possibly imagine a new radiator lasting any less than 10 years+ in CA. That's just silly. 3 years isn't long enough for any damage to occur if you never changed the coolant even once. What makes you think the radiator is history if I might ask? GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 www.radiators.com or www.radiatorexpress.com which is the same site. I got a new 2 core radiator for under 200 bucks shipped to my door. Its an awesome radiator too, just wish I didn't blow the rings out of my car just after putting it in:( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petersubaru Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 after going to the rad website, I discovered that my rads are single core not double...no wonder they did not last very long.... quote=Turbone]I just bought 3 rads from the Radiator Barn(radiatorbarn.com). Top quality, brand new and not overpriced. Theres also Performance Radiator @ 1 877 723-4286. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 corrosion from the outside on the rad will destroy the poor quality ones very quickly from all the salt that is thrown on the roads where I live and drive...4 or 5 yrs at best..... Sure - but in CA, OR, and WA we don't get salted roads. They use chemical de-icing out here cause we don't have huge supply's of saly from the great lakes like you guys. I have radiators from as far back as 82 still performing flawlessly. And NONE of our radiators ever corrode on the outside - they get clogged on the inside from people not changing their coolant annually as they should. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 we don't have huge supply's of salt from the great lakes like you guys. GD The great lakes are the worlds largest supply of FRESH water Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexx Posted November 19, 2006 Author Share Posted November 19, 2006 I was away from the screen too long and my answer disappeared when I clicked to post it. I hate when that happens. Here's the concise version. The metal appears to be too thin around the outflow port (I made that phrase up I guess). When the radiator first started to leak I thought it was the bottom outflow hose that was bad. After loosening the hose and trying to pull it off I noticed the outflow port flexing! That can't be good, sure enough the leak was caused by what looks to me to be very thin metal that has simply worn through. Over a third of the outflow port circumference had had a hairline crack I had the radiator welded/soldiered a month ago and now it's leaking again. I haven't checked to see if it's from the exact same spot yet. The metal fillets that cool the water appear to be fine. My opinion is the radiator manufacturer cheaped out on the thickness of the metal in certain parts of the radiator. I shouldn't be able to see the radiator walls flex so easily simply by tugging on the attached bottom radiator hose, should I? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 No, you shouldn't. It sounds like a cheaper radiator that will just keep breaking. So you don't know what brand that is? (It would be nice if we could all avoid it ) Good characteristics have been mentioned - 2 row core, metal tanks (not plastic)... Modine is one of the better brands you can ask for but their 80s subaru radiators are getting hard to find.. One thing that is not mentioned above is a ground wire. The EA81 cars came with a ground wire at the top of the radiator; they are 3" long and attach to the top of the center support. The reason that the radiator needs to be grounded to the frame is because the radiator has that thermostatic switch for the electric fan. Since the switch grounds the fan relay *through* the radiator, that current has to go somewhere (preferably the frame) or else you will get electrolytic corrosion in the radiator. This might not be relevant to your problem but I felt like mentioning it because it gets missed a lot... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexx Posted November 19, 2006 Author Share Posted November 19, 2006 No, you shouldn't. It sounds like a cheaper radiator that will just keep breaking. So you don't know what brand that is? (It would be nice if we could all avoid it ) I looked but I couldn't find the name brand on it. What is the most expensive radiator on the market that makes Subaru aftermarket radiators. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacobs Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 To get the longest possible radiator life, you should: 1. Never use tap water in a cooling system. The minerals will clog the tubes. Use only distilled water. 2. Purchase a kit at your auto parts store to check your coolant pH. I believe NAPA sells them if you're having trouble finding it. 3. Check the voltage of the coolant by placing one lead of your voltmeter in the coolant and grounding the other lead to chassis ground. If you see more than 200 mv, replace your coolant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexx Posted November 20, 2006 Author Share Posted November 20, 2006 OK, I did a Google search making sure to use the phrase "OEM". ONLY SIX CHOICES CAME UP! Here is what I found as what appears to be the only "OEM" radiator seller. http://rep.racepages.com/parts/racepages/wizard.jsp?year=1981&make=SU&model=ALL--002&category=G&part=Radiator&dp=false&showdc=false&appTransmissionType=Manual I like that it is MORE EXPENSIVE than all the other radiators, that all seem to sell for around $120.00 dollars. However more expensive doesn't necessarily mean anything, OEM should mean something, no? The picture of the radiator looks pretty much identical to the original radiator, now the question is, just how hardy is the actual metal wall on the inside of the radiator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 The only supplier for sure of OEM radiators is the OEM (Subaru). Listen to some of the recommendations from us. Purchase from say radiatorbarn, or radiatorexpress or performance radiator. I personally think the radiator you got was a fluke. I've purchased a cheap ($60) radiator for my wagon that's holding up just fine and doesn't feel cheap at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexx Posted November 20, 2006 Author Share Posted November 20, 2006 The only supplier for sure of OEM radiators is the OEM (Subaru). Listen to some of the recommendations from us. Purchase from say radiatorbarn, or radiatorexpress or performance radiator. I personally think the radiator you got was a fluke. I've purchased a cheap ($60) radiator for my wagon that's holding up just fine and doesn't feel cheap at all. I've been lured by the call of racing car performance. I put "Jolt" racing transmission fluid in my car just after it was rebuilt at 190,000 miles (70,000 miles ago) and I don't regret it at all. The fluid seems to work well from the get go even on cold days as compared to the standard gear oil I was using before. I'm interested in finding out how many manufacturers there really are for these radiators. I heard two of the biggest recently merged, Is there really a choice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nkx Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 +3 for radiatorbarn.com go with the 2-row, you wont regret it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobscript Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 www.radiators.com or www.radiatorexpress.com which is the same site. I got a new 2 core radiator for under 200 bucks shipped to my door. Its an awesome radiator too, just wish I didn't blow the rings out of my car just after putting it in:( +1 - that's where I got mine. Brand new, 2-row, all metal (brass), stock fitment, CSF brand, $130 shipped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexx Posted November 20, 2006 Author Share Posted November 20, 2006 +1 - that's where I got mine. Brand new, 2-row, all metal (brass), stock fitment, CSF brand, $130 shipped. I checked the site, they are called "OE" rather than "OEM". They sound like good stuff but wouldn't I rather want an "OEM" versus an "OE" if I wanted the best quality? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 I checked the site, they are called "OE" rather than "OEM". They sound like good stuff but wouldn't I rather want an "OEM" versus an "OE" if I wanted the best quality? Most websites when they say OEM doesn't mean its an OEM product (IE: the same one that came with the car, or the one the dealership provides). It means its an OEM fit and doesn't require modifications. Doesn't always mean its up to OEM standards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexx Posted November 20, 2006 Author Share Posted November 20, 2006 Most websites when they say OEM doesn't mean its an OEM product (IE: the same one that came with the car, or the one the dealership provides). It means its an OEM fit and doesn't require modifications. Doesn't always mean its up to OEM standards. Let me point out that very few OEM choices came up. Actually, I think the link I gave was the only one. So either their product is a step above, or they are being deceptive. I forgot the google phrases I used, but I got my list down to six choices and only one actually was in English and had what I was looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 It looks like you have 2 choices. 1. go with the companies that everyone here has been so gracious to suggest to you 2. go to your local Subaru dealer, pay an arm and a leg, and get an OEM radiator Or i guess you have a 3rd choice, you can continue to ignore all the posts and keep asking if people have preferences. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexx Posted November 20, 2006 Author Share Posted November 20, 2006 It looks like you have 2 choices. 1. go with the companies that everyone here has been so gracious to suggest to you 2. go to your local Subaru dealer, pay an arm and a leg, and get an OEM radiator Or i guess you have a 3rd choice, you can continue to ignore all the posts and keep asking if people have preferences. It's somewhat factually irrelevant how one feels about a NEW radiator they just purchased. I definitely appreciate those contributions because I value the input but it doesn't directly relate to my ultimate concern, which I outlined in my original question, which had to do with radiator longevity. Based on my initial concern that I clearly posted in my original question, wouldn't you agree that all that really matters to me are the radiators that people bought 5 years ago or longer that are still working fine? When I bought my replacement radiator three years ago I too thought it was a fine radiator. The companies paint their radiators gloss black and they look like they are brand new and in fine shape, yet we really don't know how thick the metal inside is or how long they will last. Perhaps if more people care about quality in addition to price OEM would still mean something, assuming that the statement by others that OEM doesn't mean anything is true. I would say that it is a somewhat bold assertion to make when one states that OEM doesn't really mean anything, so maybe the spotlight should be on that statement rather than mocking me for still wanting to know if OEM carries any weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 Basically, when you're looking online at any auto parts stores, especially those owned by autopartswarehouse (which the one you found is, and the majority of online parts houses), if you see OEM, it just means its an OEM fit. I've purchased numerous "OEM" items from said websites, and they all came back as an item that fit like OEM but was obviously a different brand. The only way to be guaranteed a part you are getting is OEM is to purchase it from a dealership. That's not to say OEM parts can't be had from places besides the dealer, you just have to know what the name brands the dealer sells are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexx Posted November 20, 2006 Author Share Posted November 20, 2006 Basically, when you're looking online at any auto parts stores, especially those owned by autopartswarehouse (which the one you found is, and the majority of online parts houses), if you see OEM, it just means its an OEM fit. I've purchased numerous "OEM" items from said websites, and they all came back as an item that fit like OEM but was obviously a different brand. The only way to be guaranteed a part you are getting is OEM is to purchase it from a dealership. That's not to say OEM parts can't be had from places besides the dealer, you just have to know what the name brands the dealer sells are. The definition from Wikipedia states... (beginning of Wikipedia definition of OEM) In the automotive industry, status as an OEM is a legal identification. OEM status (in the United States) signifies that the company's automotive products have been tested and validated according to Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard and Department Of Transportation regulations. Examples of OEM automobile companies include General Motors, Ford Motor Company, and Toyota. The last remaining small OEM automobile company in North America is Saleen, Inc.. Small "tuner" companies do not qualify for automotive OEM status as they do not bear legal liability for vehicle safety or performance. (end of wikipedia definition of OEM) ---------------------------------------------------------- Most resellers call their parts OE, not OEM. They must be doing this for a reason, no? If there is somebody out there who is rich, curious, and has time on their hands, please buy an OEM radiator from the link I provided several posts back and buy an OE radiator from the places generously mentioned by others, tear them both apart and examine how they are made, including metal thickness and welding proficiency, and let us know if there is a difference in quality. Hey, if we don't put the scenario out there, no one knows to try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeolaPA Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 amazing how a guy asks a question and nobody answers it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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