jeffast Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 ok my right front wheel bearing is shot, loud grinding noise while the car is moving gets worse with speed, getting worse not the brakes, i have orderd a new bearing and i was wondering how long this should take me my first time. also could someone walk me through the procedure i'd appreciate it, also i have no idea what tools i need, where can i get a brass punch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrap487 Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 I've only done 1 set on my ea81, but it was a pain. Helps to have the hub completely disassembled and off of the car, and some kind of vice or press is really nice to have. Other than that I cant really tell you much about procedure. Make sure you pack it good, what I usually do for bearings of that type is get a good ziplock bag, fill it with grease of choice and massage it in; doesnt get grease everywhere and does a good job. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 I've only done 1 set on my ea81, but it was a pain. Helps to have the hub completely disassembled and off of the car, and some kind of vice or press is really nice to have. Other than that I cant really tell you much about procedure. Make sure you pack it good, what I usually do for bearings of that type is get a good ziplock bag, fill it with grease of choice and massage it in; doesnt get grease everywhere and does a good job. Good luck Sounds like what I did. You can get a brass drift at any decent tool store or probably Sears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 Jeff,you may be better off getting another front hub assembly off another 6 and rebuilding that one.I just thought it may be easier for you than doing it on the car.There is a 6 a PNS right now.You can't miss it ,it is bright yellow like Phils car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffast Posted November 21, 2006 Author Share Posted November 21, 2006 kinda empty on the fundage right now gotta go the cheap route Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 not sure which car you are doing this on, but the basics are: 1. pull the hub off the car - it does make it a LOT easier. 2. remove the old bearings/races - drive them out with a drift from the opposite side of the hub 3. clean up the hub, get all the old nasty grease out of there, and check for any damage... 4. pack new bearings with good quality hi temp grease. I prefer to use the disposable glove method so I can see how much grease i am getting into the bearing. grab a glob of grease in one hand, the bearing in the other and smoosh it into the grease with a swiping motion, you will see grease coming thru to the inside when you have it well packed. 5. install the new bearing/race into the hub. if you dont have a press for this job, it can be done using a large socket and rubber mallet, just be careful to keep it square with the hub (little tip - put bearing/race in a baggie and put in the freezer for a couple hours, then when ready to install, heat the hub with a propane torch, you dont have to get it cherry red, just warmed up good. the new bearings/race will almost fall into place with very little effort) 6. on my 89 wagon there was a space between the inner and outer bearings, i filled that with grease as well...may, or may not be applicable to your situation. 7. reinstall hub on the car. getting the axle all the way back thru the new bearings can be difficult, i had to use some spacers and the axle nut to pull it all the way thru. Do NOT beat the hub into place, can damage the new bearings and/or the CV joint on the axle. (go ahead, ask me how I know that one!:-\ ) Good luck with yours, hope this helped even a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zukiru Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 glad you mentioned the high temp grease this is very important as the shipping grease IS NOT going to last.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrap487 Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 glad you mentioned the high temp grease this is very important as the shipping grease IS NOT going to last.. most bearings arent even shipped packed with any grease, the grease thats on them is to prevent corrosion while shipping/sitting on a shelf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffast Posted November 22, 2006 Author Share Posted November 22, 2006 Good luck with yours, hope this helped even a little. thanks that is actually exactly what i was looking for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 It can be done on the car, that's how I've always done it so I didn't disturb the strut mounting, which will effect the camber/castor. You will have to remove wheel, and axle nut, then the brake caliper and hang it up out of the way so it's not hanging from the brake hose, use a small bungie hooked to the coil spring. remove the bracket for the caliper, remove the hub(with the wheel studs) by backing out the four bolts. Seperate the lower ball joint from the control arm by removing the one bolt and use a screw driver from the top into the groove to seperate the clamping area. then using a short piece of wood and a big hammer, place the wood on top of the control arm and hit it with the hammer untill the ball joint comes out of the control arm. The sway bar will keep the control arm up, and spring it back onto the ball joint so after you break it loose, you will have to push down on the control arm while pulling up and out on the hub assembly to get it out. I have used a jack under the hub assembly before to push it up, just don't lift it too high because you'll lift the car off of your jack stands! Next you have to remove the axle, put the big nut back on backwards just so it is flush with the axle end to give you a good wide surface and to protect the threads, and lightly tap the end with a hammer and maybe a piece of wood on the nut to cushion it untill the axle pushes through the bearings. It will only go a little before you can pull it through the back. You will also have to pull out on the hub assembly to clear the axle. Then just lay it to one side. Now pry out the rubber wheel seals, inner an outer with a screw driver. Dont worry about destroying them because you have new ones, right? You'll see the bearings and a spacer inbetween. Reach through with your punch and catch the edge of the bearing with the punch, get you big hammer and whack away. Move the punch from one side to the other with every whack to push it out evenly. Even though it is a snug fit, you can get it lodged sideways a bit. After the inner bearing pops out, push out the spacer and clean up some of the grease. Now turn the steering wheel to the right to give you better reach to get the outer bearing out the same way, reaching around the backside. Clean out ALL the old grease. Now pack the new bearings with high temp disc brake approved grease, the better the quality, the happier you'll be. Put a light coat of grease in the hub where the bearing will go in, and position the bearing. lightly tap the bearing along the OUTER EDGE only in a circular pattern untill it's flush with the outer edge of the hub. Now take your punch, brass if you have it, and keep tapping the bearing around the outer edge untill it seats. You notice a distinct difference in the sound when it bottoms out. place the inner wheel seal on and lighty tap around the outer edge with a dull, blunt screwdriver or dull chisel, this gives you a flat edge but won't cut the seal, untill it's seated. Now turn your steering wheel back. Glob in grease around where the spacer will be and put the spacer in filling all aound it with grease. Now place the outer bearing and start tapping it in just like the inner, in a circular pattern untill it's flush, the use the tap around the OUTER EDGE only to seat it. Install the outer seal the same as the inner, but you may not need the screw diver because of the flat shape of the seal, just use the hammer lightly. Now the fun part, the part where mistakes are made, and damage is done, getting the axle back in. Pull out on the hub assembly and put the axle in throught the rear, put a light coat of grease on the axle shaft, untill it stops pushing through, and it will stop. Push as hard as you can to get it as far as you can. I have made spacers out of a piece of pipe in various lengths to aid in pulling the axle though. The pipe needs to be small enough to go though the seal, and rest onto the bearing. Short enough to allow the nut to be placed on the axle too. Subaru made a tool for this. With a washer under the axle nut, crank away untill the axle pulls through, and you run out of threads. Now remove the short spacer, and put on a longer one, tighten some more. Keep going with spacers untill you can install the hub(with wheel studs) and use the washer and nut on it to pull it the rest of the way. Watch the inner wheel seal as you do this, it can be folded over or pinched as the axle is tightned. This will allow water in, and you'll have to replace the bearings again. After you have cussed and thrown your tools all over the yard getting the axle in, you have to get the assembly back onto the ball joint. You can use the jack again, but you'll also have to push down on the control arm to get it down far enough. Once it is in, tighten the bolt, put the brakes back together, the wheel on, and your done. The first tim I did it, it took most of the day, a lot of swearing, too many beers, and a WHOLE LOT of patience!!! Now, I can do it in like 10-45 minutes. That should cover it, next time I do this, I'm taking pictures... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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