bgd73 Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 Anybody done this perfectly? I am on my second rocker repair, same side as my first on same year car (hmmm) My first one was too strong and broke the body, my second can be found here: http://93loyale.com/rpanel.html Would love some notes to compare to. It seems as long as it is repaired, inspection folks don't know it could be incorrect. I am confident with the second repair, would love some input (friendly I hope) . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88HatchMonster Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 You're lucky they still make repair panels for your vehicle! I had to fab my own for my '88 hatchback. I built them as a one-piece channel, with no pinch-weld. Material used was 22-guage steel. Before installing them I painted the insides with rust-bullet automotive paint. They are held in place underneath by spot welds about six inches apart. Afterward I drilled 1/8 inch weep holes along the bottom and treated the holes with rust-bullet. On a unibody car, the rockers should be as strong as possible (within reason) as they do add structural support. I think that your body failing had more to do with an over-all too rusty vehicle to begin with. Before repairing my rockers I fully repaired and reinforced my floor-pan and main frame rails. For a lasting repair, you need to sand all the rusted surfaces down to bare metal and then cut back at least an inch past the rot. Laminating untreated or already rusty surfaces will create the perfect conditions for more rust. So keep overlaps to a minimum. Realize that you can rarely ever get anything air-tight and that trying to do so may only create an area that will trap moisture and create rust. So treat your surfaces and allow for drainage where any moisture may collect. I think you'll be fine for inspection purposes... Here's some pics of my repair: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 wow, very nice job HatchMonster! bgd, waiting to see some more pics!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 you could probably do well making replacement rocker panels for east coasters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88HatchMonster Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 you could probably do well making replacement rocker panels for east coasters! Ummm I doubt it, you don't wanna know how many hours I have in those things! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgd73 Posted November 22, 2006 Author Share Posted November 22, 2006 You're lucky they still make repair panels for your vehicle! I had to fab my own for my '88 hatchback. I built them as a one-piece channel, with no pinch-weld. Material used was 22-guage steel. Before installing them I painted the insides with rust-bullet automotive paint. They are held in place underneath by spot welds about six inches apart. Afterward I drilled 1/8 inch weep holes along the bottom and treated the holes with rust-bullet. On a unibody car, the rockers should be as strong as possible (within reason) as they do add structural support. I think that your body failing had more to do with an over-all too rusty vehicle to begin with. Before repairing my rockers I fully repaired and reinforced my floor-pan and main frame rails. For a lasting repair, you need to sand all the rusted surfaces down to bare metal and then cut back at least an inch past the rot. Laminating untreated or already rusty surfaces will create the perfect conditions for more rust. So keep overlaps to a minimum. Realize that you can rarely ever get anything air-tight and that trying to do so may only create an area that will trap moisture and create rust. So treat your surfaces and allow for drainage where any moisture may collect. I think you'll be fine for inspection purposes... Here's some pics of my repair: Excellent job, that is how i did my first wagon. It was indeed way rustier than normal after the blinding blue thunder event I finally realized was lightning several years later in a dream ... I hope to never find shatterable obsidian looking stuff as an old soob structure on the underside ever again- I broke my car with a single 22 oz hammer with stuff flying everywhere. This current wagon (in much better shape - strangely not overruled my thoughts of yet another lightning strike) has a long signal from front to back and a pillar in the middle, that makes 3 signals one beam, and it absolutely has to be spring-like forgiving,and a real attempt at getting it correct with the middle beam not oem, but just as responsive. I am glad there is a rocker out there pre made. I am driving around at this moment with the seam open and the thin layer of aluminum binding the baffler looking thin spring like middle beam with an obvious strength added- I can feel it, and so can the car. It even sounds like a bell when I bang it- this is a good sign. A dull thud is too strong, or too weak in the stage it is now of the repair. A full seal is of course quiet and a pleasure to have one side of the seat bolted to. Will have it photo'd in upcoming days (possibly weeks). The rocker at millsuplly is correct material? I will email this question if no one knows. http://www.millsupply.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgd73 Posted January 3, 2007 Author Share Posted January 3, 2007 bump. I just ordered this rocker cheaply from mill supply. I am hoping someone has done this here and can inform what the guage and actual precision is? I have seen this part ordered with disappointment in that there was no leading edge that hangs down- that edge is very strong and the whole point of the original rocker.OEMs version could hold a jack to lift the car and take rocks logs and other 4wd mishaps. After a phone call I was told that it is a complete replacement form front to back and has the edge for the backing plate that goes back to the bodies belly. At 5.5 lbs for a 60 inch piece of steel, I figured it must be a good replacement. Would like opinions. I have made my own rocker and broke the belly in another soob. The signal has to be fast and strong like only steel could for the rocker panels area. My version was heavier than oem, but killed the belly (quite bizarre).I honestly would rather hand make a wheel well than guess at that rocker beam integrity again on the 4wd wagons (especially with lsd). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgd73 Posted January 23, 2007 Author Share Posted January 23, 2007 update: got the rocker today from millsupply in a 7 foot tall box well wrapped. Snipped at it to verify guage, very tough to cut with 20 guage snips, fine grain. Very worth it. total cost was close to 50 bucks. It also gives a chance to wrap the front and do something custom in the middle (my last 87 went to junk because of the middle).and its got angles all in one piece that are very difficult to do .. I have tried and failed. This replacement was well worth the one piece fit. Will be installing as soon as the garage I use is open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 I am spoiled having 2 friends who fabricate..and one of them has the "secret" catalog. But I am also lucky in knowing that my 2 friends know how I feel about my cars and they go above what most shops would do. I will being doing rockers soon on Rocky ( the XT6 ) and havent desided to go with the new or just have them make new. The ones you got, bdg, are sure pretty ! Keep us posted on the progress! If it makes you feel better..I have planned on putting alot more time and money into my XT6 then first planned.Rocky is going to be a show piece when finished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgd73 Posted January 23, 2007 Author Share Posted January 23, 2007 I am spoiled having 2 friends who fabricate..and one of them has the "secret" catalog. But I am also lucky in knowing that my 2 friends know how I feel about my cars and they go above what most shops would do. I will being doing rockers soon on Rocky ( the XT6 ) and havent desided to go with the new or just have them make new. The ones you got, bdg, are sure pretty ! Keep us posted on the progress! If it makes you feel better..I have planned on putting alot more time and money into my XT6 then first planned.Rocky is going to be a show piece when finished. I was fabricating at first on my other 87. Great luck with 1/8th inch box beam trailer steel, very springy, didn't dominate by killing signals and proved itself through 30 below when you can find a firewall popped away from the front end or even a broken frame....but that doesn't go well with long rockers. From experience, it needs super fast signal, capable of a ton, and one piece. Fabricating low torque old hatchbacks would be fun, but the wagons and xt6 are a different story, be it the body and/or strong driveline, or both. LSD rears is a metal killing monster on a unibody as well. It truly needs a high grade fast spring type steel.The only way I can tell beyond getting bs'd by sales is seeing the metal up close., and I bang on it for hopefully a bell sound more than "tinny".My backyard skills is another reason to get one premade, I got bs'd by a local sheet metal expert .. not once but twice.One soob dead because of it. I put a whole lot of effort into a bending soob, about a 10 hour day, surprised to see dusk when I was done, to only learn it was the WRONG metal after its fiorst winter and it bent to no return.. I really have nothing to feel better about, I bought this wagon knowing what it needs- spotting the rockers at millsupply beforehand was a big help.I even saved a smashed fender to bang up into strange curves for the little things needing repair. Not much to go now.. it is better than oem already even with an open rocker. Lift kits and EJ engines aren't even ruled out. The xt6 is even more special to have a rocker premade, with the absolute "must have" correct metal....quite a sideways torquer ya know what I mean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 The xt6 is even more special to have a rocker premade, with the absolute "must have" correct metal....quite a sideways torquer ya know what I mean? Yup ..I 100% know what you mean...thats why I am seriously thinking of spending the money and having my friend get new ones from his catalog So you coming down to carlisle?? Abdrew is bringing the 73 wagon and the 75 Coupe..Moosens is bringing his 78 wagon too I believe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgd73 Posted January 24, 2007 Author Share Posted January 24, 2007 Doubtful about carlisle.. would love the ride, may be possible. I have a rather large list of chores accruing due to 20 years on the old wagon. Would make it no doubt, but I don't need an unexpected adventure.105k is still ready to go around the world... but it isn't the same as when they were younger to just drive it until catastrophe, it seems they are gaining my personal value a bit more lately.preventive maintenance and best repair routes possible will no doubt hinder my 87's travels. I didn't spot rockers at millsupply for the xt6, they may be there.. I did find other places with them. Another good point is that there is always something left from original, so it is doubling integrity in may places where they failed the first time. "Breaks once, it will do it again." Different approach non-oem is always welcome.Except for materials. If I am not mistaken, the rocker has been the only metal I must have the original type steel...Given the years it took to do what it did, it is by no means frustrating or depressing, doubling it up sounds better than ever. next month seems to be my schedule to get it done with a full day available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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