fresh old LL Bean 01 is mine now

[yarikoptic]

Dear All,

 

Well... I got it - LL Bean 2001 with 90k miles. Seems to be in perfect shape but only (which might be nothing)

 

1. seems to need tire balancing and rotation (29.95 subaru dealers seems to give a coupon). no questions here or may be there is better deal on that anywhere? :-) (I had my tires rotated/balanced by Costco before since they were bought there... now I need to find decent price/place to have it done)

 

2. after my 95 legacy (which actually performs well after all since friend of mine who drove it back said "why did I decide to change it") I see that engine temperature reported seems to be higher than in my legacy. If in legacy it was well below middle (horizontal position), in LL Bean it is in the horizontal position (I will take a picture tomorrow). Is that normal or a bit too high?

Also I found coolant a bit dark green but I don't see real signs of oil I think... does it mean that I missed something and there is indeed some leak? or just that there is air in the coolant system so it doesn't cool properly?

Any advice on how to diagnose? anyone could recommend a good place where to have radiator properly flushed around Newark NJ for a reasonable price? (I would do it myself but it would be hard to do on the street...)

 

3. There is some light loose plastic knocking sound in the rear left. But only at low speeds seems to me. on highway I didn't hear it at all. I though that may be those moldings on the doors outside but they seem to be well attached - unless there is a loosen pin inside them or smth. What else it could be? couldn't localize it properly :-/ tomorrow may be will ask my wife to listen to

 

 

4. Actually I was going to ask the same question about my older Subi but now asking about both of them. I see that right CV, at the engine side is a bit "wet".

this is from older subi... new one seems to be less wet but still not dry. Is that too bad and I would need to work on transmission and change that seal from transmission?

 

Thanks everyone in advance

P.S. I am still carfax capable if anyone needs help

[porcupine73]

Sounds like a sweet buy!

 

2. the temp gauge or temp sensor might be a little off, or the thermostat might be holding a little higher temp than usual. It would not concern me. Those gauges are just kind of relative anyway, there is no guarantee that half way up means the same temp on both vehicles. If you are having the coolant flushed, just have a new OE thermostat and gasket put in at the same time - it's only two bolts.

 

4. looks like a little gear oil is leaking out past the differential side seals. It's like that on both my suby's too. Just make sure your diff oil levels are correct. You'd have to replace the seals to keep it from leaking which would mean (I think) pulling the axle half shafts and then removing whatever holds in the stub shaft there.

[yarikoptic]

Sounds like a sweet buy!

Unfortunately wasn't a bargain (10k$) but hopefully that will not bitter it ;-)

If you are having the coolant flushed, just have a new OE thermostat and gasket put in at the same time - it's only two bolts.

ok - will get them - thanks!

 

4. looks like a little gear oil is leaking out past the differential side seals. It's like that on both my suby's too. Just make sure your diff oil levels are correct. You'd have to replace the seals to keep it from leaking which would mean (I think) pulling the axle half shafts and then removing whatever holds in the stub shaft there.

doh ... differential... sure... I remember now how one 1992 subi of my friend made a laud BOOM after driven 1000miles in 1 day and nobody ever checked rear differential oil... there were none actually - just enough to heat so much that fumes made that explosion... well - 300 miles on a rope by another subi brought it back home ;-)

I will check how mine is doing first thing in the morning ;-) Thanks

[yarikoptic]

just have a new OE thermostat and gasket put in at the same time - it's only two bolts.

I am sorry for a silly question... I don't see any gasket on illustration from thermostat from 1stsubaru but I see it in the Service Manual. Ok - probably I should look somewhere else... is there a way to get parts list? that might make it easy to locate parts in the dealership ;-) does any one know how much they charge for coolant flush?

[yarikoptic]

does any one know how much they charge for coolant flush?

 

And should I better flush it at the dealer since probably this one had conditioner to prevent head gasket leaking issue... or it wasn't? ;-) bloody subi website verifies me to be the owner (I doubt that they would succeed since it is not yet registered on me- temp registration)

What coolant would be ok to use?

[porcupine73]

Well $10k isn't a horrid deal if you really like the vehicle and it's in good shape. Wow the exploding differential is interesting I never would have thought that could happen.

 

The thermostat gasket goes on around the circumference of the thermostat. I believe the part numbers are 21200AA072 & 21236AA010 (according to subarupartsforyou.com which seems to have good prices [never ordered from them] but they're one of the only Subaru parts dealers I've found online that actually lists part numbers unlike those trademotion based sites).

 

As far as coolants, the OE subaru coolant is like many other Japanese coolants; a phosphate 'non-amine' coolant. I'm using BASF G-05 (Zerex brand) in my '00obw; that should work OK and it gives the benefits of silicates and organic acid technology. I used prestone all makes (dexcool/OAT) in '96 legacy seemed to work fine but it can have issues if you're sucking air in anywhere in the system.

 

Make sure all air pockets are out to avoid overheating afterwards. I'd say you could get the coolant flushed anywhere; if you go elsewhere than a dealer but want the conditioner, just pick up a bottle at a dealer and take it with you.

 

Best to use only distilled or RO water with the coolant unless you buy premix. You could do the coolant yourself; it's pretty straightforward, and if you want to flush I could take pictures of my homemade flusher which will pay for itself ($100) fairly quickly if you use it even a couple times.

[subiefan]

Doesn't the LL Bean have the H6 in it? It doesn't need the Subaru miracle in a bottle Headgasket repair stuff. I dunno. If it's got the ej25 it needs the additive.

 

Congrats on new(er) Sube.

[idosubaru]

calirfy for us if it's an H6, EJ25, automatic AWD, FWD.

 

check all the fluid levels (transmission fluid, front differential fluid) and check them a few times in the coming days/miles/months. any loss of fluid is a concern, i wouldn't worry about minor wet-spots like those. that differential side oil seal is a PITA and it's highly unlikely that's the culprit of those wet spots.

 

different soobs read differently on the temp scale at operating temp, so i wouldn't let that concern you. key is that it gets to the same exact position and stays there every time, it should never waver or move, or go up/down besides normal cooling and heating up from starting/shutting off obviously.

[yarikoptic]

Doesn't the LL Bean have the H6 in it? It doesn't need the Subaru miracle in a bottle Headgasket repair stuff. I dunno. If it's got the ej25 it needs the additive.

Doh... sure... thanks ... mostly I was looking into Limiteds and my brain got tuned ;-)

[yarikoptic]

calirfy for us if it's an H6, EJ25, automatic AWD, FWD.

H6, AWD, automatic... I don't know any other llbean ;-)

 

check all the fluid levels (transmission fluid, front differential fluid) and check them a few times in the coming days/miles/months. any loss of fluid is a concern, i wouldn't worry about minor wet-spots like those. that differential side oil seal is a PITA and it's highly unlikely that's the culprit of those wet spots.

Thank you for you input. I will keep an eye on it.

I did check on my old one (1995, AT, AWD, 2.2) and indeed, differential level stays intact although CV i wet. so on that one it is of no concern. I still have to check on the new one (llbean)

 

different soobs read differently on the temp scale at operating temp, so i wouldn't let that concern you. key is that it gets to the same exact position and stays there every time, it should never waver or move, or go up/down besides normal cooling and heating up from starting/shutting off obviously.

Friend of mine also suggested to check through OBD-II which might have exact temperature reading in F, so I will do it tomorrow after having it warmed up ;-) what would be ok range?

specs say that thermostat opens fully at 196F, and temperature at water pump 185F, no range specified. So I think this is the number (185) I would aim for and would worry if it is higher than 196. it might signal that thermostat doesn't open well, right?

[porcupine73]

Yes you can read the engine coolant temp via the odbII. However, this is not the same sensor that is used for the temp gauge. You will see flucuation in the reading based on the ECTS. When this value reaches about 202 deg. F the fans may activate.

 

If the temp gauge starts to climb above usual, it could mean a few things, such as failing thermostat or faulty gauge or sensor. It could mean you've reached the maximum heat rejection capacity of the cooling system which could be due to obstructions in system or towing 2000lbs through Death Valley with the e-brake on.

 

Hm, I just assumed that fluid was gear oil as on mine I couldn't think of anything else, unless maybe grease is leaking out the boots.

[yarikoptic]

You could do the coolant yourself; it's pretty straightforward, and if you want to flush I could take pictures of my homemade flusher which will pay for itself ($100) fairly quickly if you use it even a couple times.

Pictures would be lovely and may be a good addendum to the manual of this forum? Would it be a clean system? :-) ie would I need to dump rinsing water right on the ground or it would get in some reservour?

I am starting to worry about darkish color of my coolant... heh heh - I will have a look at the car tomorrow - what temperatures it runs coolant at, and presence of oil in the coolant, etc... hopefully it is nothing serious (like a cracked head or HG)

[yarikoptic]

I'm using BASF G-05 (Zerex brand) in my '00obw;

Who sells it? I couldn't locate any retailer online just information page from valvoline, so I guess I should look for the ones who carry valvoline ;-)

 

Also what would be my total volume... doh - I don't have exactl H6 numbers. Service manual for 2001 Legacy says:

1) Fill engine coolant into radiator up to filler neck

position.

Coolant capacity (fill up to "FULL" level):

MT model;

Approx. 6.4 (6.8 US qt, 5.6 Imp qt)

AT model;

Approx. 6.3 (6.7 US qt, 5.5 Imp qt)

 

But I guess that is just from dumping coolant from the radiator without disconnecting any hoses and trying to get more liquid out of the engine... Or may be I shouldn't even do that?

 

Should I just

1. let all coolant from the radiator drain
   
2. refill it with watter
   
3. start the engine and add more as necessary (bubbles come out - more watter comes in ;-))
   
4. run it around for 10-20 mins
   
5. come back and repeat 1-4 home how many times?
   
6. after the last 1, refill radiator with coolant mix, but then what proportion would I need if the rest of the system will be with also some low level mix due to multiple circulations of pure water? What would be the total volume of cooling system in my beastie? where could I find those specs? (need to get chilton probably... there is no haynes yet for those models... what a shame)

Taking into account that I have to do it on the street and radiator contains 6.7q, I guess some 3-5 gallons draining volume would allow me to do it only 2-3 times...