boyce Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 I just aquired a d/r transmission from a legacy and want to swap in into my 92 loyale that has a 4wd full time push button transmission. Questions: Is the gear ratio different requiring the rear differential also? Are the trannys the same length and will the driveshaft work? Will the axles from the loyale work with the legacy d/r transmission? How do you remove the CV from the d/r transmission? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 You need a D/R from an older Loyale (GL here) - 85 to 89 models. The Legacy transmission will not bolt up to your engine, and it has a very weak low range - 1.2:1 vs. the GL's 1.59:1 GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boyce Posted November 26, 2006 Author Share Posted November 26, 2006 You need a D/R from an older Loyale (GL here) - 85 to 89 models. The Legacy transmission will not bolt up to your engine, and it has a very weak low range - 1.2:1 vs. the GL's 1.59:1 GD The tranny may have been from a GL, I will have to find out... wait ************ no I am retarded... the transmission is from a ea82 engine, and I have a ea82 engine also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 Then it's definately not from a Legacy. Just bolts straight up then. The D/R and the push-button use exactly the same housings. Everything will work stock, but you will need the D/R shift linkages. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boyce Posted November 26, 2006 Author Share Posted November 26, 2006 Then it's definately not from a Legacy. Just bolts straight up then. The D/R and the push-button use exactly the same housings. Everything will work stock, but you will need the D/R shift linkages. GD Awesome, okay, do I have to cut a hole in my transmission tunnel to accept the d/r linkage or does it have a plate that is bolted in or? Can you remove the shifter linkage from the top of the car or do you need to get under? The parts car I have to pull stuff out of is in a ************ty place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 It bolts straight on - you will need to get under to get the linkages out. You will also need the interior consoles around the shifter, and the forward metal bracket that the plastic stuff screws onto. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boyce Posted November 26, 2006 Author Share Posted November 26, 2006 I have a mission to get the ************, good times! Cant wait for dual range, this thing is horrible offroad on steep stuff.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjaben43 Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 its easy everything swaps right over. make sure you follow your vacuume line all the way back to the canister thing on the passenger side and plug it there then remove the 4wd actuators all together. other than that it is pretty strait forward just put it together the way you take it apart oh and its easiest to remove the driveline by dropping the caraige baring the driveline will slide outand your gear oil will dum p in your eyes.... oh yeah drain it first dummy:lol: and as for the cv's they are held on by a pin about an inch and a half from the tranny you will find it easy, use a chainsaw file or something that diamiter to tap it out, i have used a battery tie down rod before.. and have fun:headbang: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boyce Posted November 26, 2006 Author Share Posted November 26, 2006 its easy everything swaps right over. make sure you follow your vacuume line all the way back to the canister thing on the passenger side and plug it there then remove the 4wd actuators all together. other than that it is pretty strait forward just put it together the way you take it apart oh and its easiest to remove the driveline by dropping the caraige baring the driveline will slide outand your gear oil will dum p in your eyes.... oh yeah drain it first dummy:lol: and as for the cv's they are held on by a pin about an inch and a half from the tranny you will find it easy, use a chainsaw file or something that diamiter to tap it out, i have used a battery tie down rod before.. and have fun:headbang: The ************ing rollpin, I knew it.. I tapped the spinny thing on tranny with screwdriver and mallet and it spun out aways until I saw the rubber seal then stopped spinning, it will be hard to spin back in!, hope I didnt mess it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 The ************ing rollpin, I knew it.. I tapped the spinny thing on tranny with screwdriver and mallet and it spun out aways until I saw the rubber seal then stopped spinning, it will be hard to spin back in!, hope I didnt mess it up. The "spinny thing" sets the front diff spider gear pre-load. Put it EXACTLY back where it was or the front diff will eat itself. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boyce Posted November 26, 2006 Author Share Posted November 26, 2006 The "spinny thing" sets the front diff spider gear pre-load. Put it EXACTLY back where it was or the front diff will eat itself. GD crap, I dont know where it was, how to a reset it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 There's a special socket you use with a torque wrench on it. I don't have the exact procedure, but someone around here probably does. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 26, 2006 Share Posted November 26, 2006 Looking at my factory service manual the procedure is...... I suppose "nasty" is the right word for it. It involves turning the tranny on it's side with a special weight on the top (no idea how much, it's a dealer service tool), and then turning the input shaft while tightening the bottom adjuster till a slight resistance is felt, backing it off, turning the input shaft, tapping with a hammer, checking the backlash with a dial guage through the drain plug hole, and then doing a contact pattern test with "red lead" on the crown gear, yada, yada, yada..... um yeah don't EVER touch one of those. That's about all the knowledge I have on them. I've always marked them when taking them out to replace the seal, etc or when dismantling the tranny. You have to mark the posistion where it was tight, and then mark it again just where the threads dis-engage from the housing in order for the threads to start in the same spot as before. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boyce Posted November 26, 2006 Author Share Posted November 26, 2006 Looking at my factory service manual the procedure is...... I suppose "nasty" is the right word for it. It involves turning the tranny on it's side with a special weight on the top (no idea how much, it's a dealer service tool), and then turning the input shaft while tightening the bottom adjuster till a slight resistance is felt, backing it off, turning the input shaft, tapping with a hammer, checking the backlash with a dial guage through the drain plug hole, and then doing a contact pattern test with "red lead" on the crown gear, yada, yada, yada..... um yeah don't EVER touch one of those. That's about all the knowledge I have on them. I've always marked them when taking them out to replace the seal, etc or when dismantling the tranny. You have to mark the posistion where it was tight, and then mark it again just where the threads dis-engage from the housing in order for the threads to start in the same spot as before. GD That well, really sucks. I am going to call the subaru dealership and get a quote I guess (is that the thing to do)? Or my other option is that there is one more subaru out there with another dual range tranny that I could pull... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemaker13 Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 Have been looking at this conversion for a little while now... I'd really really like to have the 1.59 D/R for my 92 loyale too... Does anyone have one to sell me? I have a 92 loyale pushbutton 4x4 5 spd. How much should a trans like that cost me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmiller Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 Hope it all goes back together allright. D/R is nice:clap: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemaker13 Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 Hope it all goes back together allright. D/R is nice:clap: Haha! Me too I hope it works well. I may have found one w/ 89k on it. Practically brand new! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dedpossum Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 Ya ok i'm coming really late into this one. But I two just bought a 92 Loyale, I LOVE this car. It is so much fun. What is the dual range for??? Is that like what you have on a semi?? I'm a noob, but I think it's going to be fun playing with this car. I have plans. . . big plans for my little rooster. ded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 I have pulled a 5sp D/R trans out of a mates car and one of the diff caps was loose... Yes, loose. It had at least done 10,000km like that, most likely a lot more. Never heard the diff make any noises or anything.. But yes, without them at the right torque the crown wheel, pinion shaft and bearings should eat them selves alive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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