Anyone used the SJR lift, and other lift kit advice

[Andy FitzGibbon]

I'm looking at lift kits- have been doing a lot of searching thru the threads here and also on the net. Has anyone used the SJR lift? I like the looks of it but there seems to be more info on the BYB and AA lifts.

I'm kind of steering away from the AA kit, as from what I can tell from their site they don't drop the rear diff at all (is this correct?) I'm figuring that might be hard on the CVs for a mostly on-road car. Looks like the SJR kit drops the diff about half of what they drop the suspension, and the BYB drops it all equally- am I right there?

SJR doesn't include the steering extension (not a big deal, I can make one) and they lengthen the front radius arms apparently.

My car (92 Loyale Wagon) is what I drive every day, probably 95% of it's time is spent on pavement. I'm not a hardcore off roader at all, just want more clearance and a taller tire for when I have to hit a forest service road or something similar. Any advice on what would be the best kit, as far as staying *close* to stock handling and roadability?

Thanks in advance, I just got this car to replace my lifted 89 4Runner and am getting excited about the whole Subaru thing.

Andy

[GeneralDisorder]

Besides the strut tops, lifts are pretty simple. SJR seems to know his stuff, and there's quite a number of folks using them. I wouldn't worry about axle angles - it's over-extension you have to worry about more than anything, and you can stop that will travel-limiting straps. If you are enterprising enough to build the steering linkage I would sugest buying his strut tops and possibly the diff lowering shim if you want one, and doing the rest of the blocks yourself. 1/4" wall channel makes perfectly adequate lift blocks. I've pounded the hell out of mine, and I managed to bend my struts - blocks are all solid as the day I installed them. I have a local place called "metal supermarkets" cut me 2" sections of 2x4 1/4" wall channel ($5 each - you need 10 for the front, and the rear depends on how you do it) and then drill 1/2" holes in either end. Use the stock mounting bolts to mount the block to the uni-body, and then use some 1/2" grade 8 hardware to anchor the suspension to the blocks. I had problems in the past with using bolts that go all the way though the block into the frame - besides them being a LOT more expensive, as the blocks flex it puts a lot of strain on the long bolt, and the bolts can break, or damage the capture nuts in the frame. The steel that the capture nuts is welded to is only about 1/8" thick and doesn't take much flexing to eventually cause a stress fracture. Useing the stock short bolts with a hollow channel block is both inexpensive, and avoids potential problems with 5" bolts flexing.

 

GD

[uncoolperson]

I was the test subject for the ea81 4", we built that over a few weekends (more correctly he built/designed and i stood around and watched), happy as can be with it... infact another is in the works for my brat.

 

and i think i need to talk him into a scale lift kit for the rc brat

 

I've taken my sjr equiped car pretty far, and all the breakage was something other than lift associated stuff. I trust his craftsmanship with myself and my passenger (usually the girlfriend) over big long distances scary terrain and all that other stuff...then again i've seen the effort he puts into it, with that you're getting a dang good deal.

 

 

also, he's selling his rig... might be nicer to just pick up something already put together.

[Andy FitzGibbon]

also, he's selling his rig... might be nicer to just pick up something already put together.

 

Yeah, except that I'm in WV and he's in WA...

I might build my own lift, though I'm sorely tempted to buy one- it would be another project scratched off the mile-long project list. 3-4" might be too much for what I want to do with the car, I think I'd rather have 2" or so.

Thanks for the replies,

Andy

[Phizinza]

Yeah, except that I'm in WV and he's in WA...

I might build my own lift, though I'm sorely tempted to buy one- it would be another project scratched off the mile-long project list. 3-4" might be too much for what I want to do with the car, I think I'd rather have 2" or so.

Thanks for the replies,

Andy

 

If you want small I'd go 3" all round. 2's a little small, bit harder to fit those 27" tires on. I'm thinking about going to a 3", but I'm not sure if I want to build another lift for my car that doesn't involve a t-case swap.

[Andy FitzGibbon]

If you want small I'd go 3" all round. 2's a little small, bit harder to fit those 27" tires on. I'm thinking about going to a 3", but I'm not sure if I want to build another lift for my car that doesn't involve a t-case swap.

 

I should have mentioned earlier that I want to run 14" wheels.

This car on the Scorpion Subaru site looks like about what I'd like to do to my car:

It has their 50 mm lift and 27-8.50/14 tires.

I'm afraid the 3.5 inch lift would be a little tall for all the on-road driving I do, and would maybe lead to adverse handling (increased body roll, ect.) I know that everything is a trade off and not to expect to keep factory handling after lifting it- my last car was an 89 4Runner with 33s and a Detroit locker so I'm used to a little bit of wander- but I'd like to keep the Subaru pretty roadable.

Still in the planning stages though, may change my mind before all is said and done.

Thanks,

Andy

[WoodsWagon]

I've got a 4" BYB lift in my loyale. See my review in the Product Review section of the market place.

 

Driveability is a little wierd with the stock tires on. Once you have the bigger tires and rims on, the car drives normaly. I could keep up with a legacy absolutely rippin up the back roads with my wagon. A lifted subaru is nothing like a lifted truck. However you do your lift, pay close attention to where the strut rods mount to the floorpans. It's THE weak point, and it's a PITA to repair once it tears.

[Numbchux]

if you're not concerned about suspension articulation. upgrade to turbo rear trailing arms, and add a rear sway bar to it. the only large driveability difference I noticed, was the removal of the sway bar, the origional lift and tire installation didn't effect the handling all that much.

 

I bet, even with a lift and slightly larger tires (just 26-27" tires would be perfect, don't need to do all that trimming for 29+), it would be pretty streetable, and very stable with a rear sway bar. Heck, you could even put in the beefy XT6 bars...and probably get better than stock handling!

 

 

I just bought an '87 turbo 4runner, with stock suspension and 31s....and I can tell you my 4" lifted, swaybarless wagon handled better than this thing does!

 

 

 

and 91loyale. he's looking at an SJR kit, which leaves the strut/radius/leading rod brackets tight up against the body. so that weak point isn't really an issue (the biggest reason I would get an SJR kit over anything else)

[BruceyWV]

I have absolutely nothing to add to this thread other than:

"Hey, there are other WV people on here!"

[Andy FitzGibbon]

it would be pretty streetable, and very stable with a rear sway bar

 

After my 4Runner, driving pretty much anything feels better. I had soft leaves in the back, combined with the locker it sort of "wollowed" in turns. Went anywhere in a straight line, though. What Subaru model has a rear sway bar I can swap in- or do I have to fab one?

Brucey, hi from Elkins.

burtonsnowman, why do you want his rear axle? Just take one out of a V6 Toyota, they are the same as the turbos. 4cyl N/As were the only trucks to get the lighter duty rear 3rd member.

Thanks for the replies,

Andy

[Numbchux]

After my 4Runner, driving pretty much anything feels better. I had soft leaves in the back, combined with the locker it sort of "wollowed" in turns. Went anywhere in a straight line, though. What Subaru model has a rear sway bar I can swap in- or do I have to fab one?

Brucey, hi from Elkins.

burtonsnowman, why do you want his rear axle? Just take one out of a V6 Toyota, they are the same as the turbos. 4cyl N/As were the only trucks to get the lighter duty rear 3rd member.

Thanks for the replies,

Andy

 

most anything of the same body style that has a turbo will (although it was only an option on the GL-10s and XTs...so some might not. but most will). and XT6s (heavier car, so they got a thicker bar). you'll need the trailing arms too, as they only have the necessary brackets if there was a sway bar.

 

and no...you can't have my axle burtonsnowman....

[Andy FitzGibbon]

You're the weak 3rd member.

 

...Whatever that meant...

 

I was referring to the drop out differential in the Toyota axle. They call them a 3rd member- I don't know why... V6 and turbo 4Runners have the heavy duty 4 pinion 3rd member, 4cyl NA trucks have a 2 pinion. The tubes, axles, hubs ect. are the same. I assumed you wanted chux turbo 4Runner axle because it was the HD one.

I like it as an insult though... might have to try that out on someone.

I'm thinking the 3 1/2" SJR lift, or at least his strut drop brackets.

Andy