mrdeep2001 Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 Last week I went to go look at my drum brakes to see if they needed to be replaced and I couldn't figure out how to get the drums off. I took of the wheel, pushed and pulled, and hammered away at them, but to no avail. I think they are stuck being on there so long. Any help is appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nedro Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 Normally you will see two tiny little holes on the drum face as you are looking at it. These are 8x1.25mm bolt holes. Spray a bit of WD-40 into them and insert a bolt in each one. drive them in with a wrench little by little and evenly. Your drum will pop off. They are there for this exact reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdeep2001 Posted November 30, 2006 Author Share Posted November 30, 2006 Thanks I'll check it out tom. after work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 2 or 4wheel drive? If its 4 you might need a wheel puller. I did, got one for $15 bucks at local parts store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 We are assuming that you are removing the hub nut, right? The big 36 mm one in the middle. The drum won't come off unless this is removed first. Subarus don't have the tapped holes, as the drum is the hub, not an extra piece of cast iron that slips onto it. Once the hub nut is removed, all that stops it from coming off is the shoes. There might be a build up of rust at the edge that stops the hub from sliding off. A little banging and wiggling should get it. Scrape off the rust before reassembly, to make it easier next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 There's also a rubber plug in the backing plate that lets you stick a screwdriver in to release the self adjuster. Just stick it in and poke, there's a ratchet on a quaderant style adjuster in there. If you back the shoes off, the drum should come off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted December 1, 2006 Share Posted December 1, 2006 I did all that on mine and sprayed the heck out of it with pb blaster and a BFH and still had to get wheel puller. Sometimes they just like to stick tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somick Posted December 1, 2006 Share Posted December 1, 2006 It looks like you drive 92 Loyale. There might be a groove that the shoes made in the drum. That what holds it. At the back of the weel there is a rubber thing that covers the adjusting screw. Pull it off. The screw is not hexagonal. It is square. I use a hose bib key to turn it but actualy a pair of pliers will work. Turn it one way and at the same time rotate your wheel. If the wheel stops then turn the key another way. I think 3-4 turns will be enough. Now go back to the side of the car. Do not remove your wheel but instead pry off the center cap that covers the bearing. Remove it. You will see a big nut, probably 36 mm. Carefully remove it. I think it is torqued only to about 30 pounds. Remove a lock washer (unbent it). Remove the regular washer and an outer bearing. CAREFULLY pull the wheel and drum off as one piece: there is an inner bearing that will want to jump out as well. I hope it will work for you. When you assemble it back tighten it until the wheel stops moving and then back it off 1/4 turn. Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted December 1, 2006 Share Posted December 1, 2006 Is the vehicle in question FWD or 4WD? Could make all the difference. I have never looked at a FWD, but the 4WD is a lot simpler than semyonlibman describes. The 4WD has no cap, a cotter pin instead of a lock washer, and the bearings are all behind the hub, and don't come out with it. Unless they changed from '91 to '92 to '93, you don't have an adjusting screw. Yours are self-adjusting, with a little ratcheting quadrant thing that tightens up when the brakes are applied. Works great, as far as self-adjusting goes. Unless, again, this is a 4WD feature? I have never tried/had to loosen it off to remove the drum on mine. Lucky, so far. 91Loyale has the procedure to try. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdeep2001 Posted December 1, 2006 Author Share Posted December 1, 2006 Fwd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somick Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 Yes, I forgot to mention that the procedure I described in the post # 8 was for FWD. Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spockva Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 Last week I went to go look at my drum brakes to see if they needed to be replaced and I couldn't figure out how to get the drums off. I took of the wheel, pushed and pulled, and hammered away at them, but to no avail. I think they are stuck being on there so long. Any help is appreciated. As I just did my rear brakes recently on my 92 Subaru Loyale FWD, I found there is a bearing cap that you have to remove and then you have to unbend the retaining lock for the nut, remove it and then the outer bearing. Be careful when you pull the drum/hub unit off! There is a seal on the back side that might want to stay on the spindle. Try to pull the drum/hub straight off and not damage the seal, unless you are like me and always service the bearings and seals when you do your brakes so you don't end up with brakes coated in axle grease because a seal failed. There is an adjusting screw on the backing plate, and you might have to back it out a few turns to get the drum over the shoes if there is a deep wear area in the drum. If that is the case you probably need to have the drums checked to see if they are worn beyond where they can be resurfaced. Have the drums resurfaced at a brake shop or machine shop, clean all the nasty gunk off the backing plate, clean and inspect the bearings for wear, repack them with fresh grease, install new seals and brake shoes and new springs, put everything back together, tighten the nut until the wheel stops then back it off a quarter of a turn, bend the locking washer up so the nut can't back off, put the bearing cap back on, and you should be good to go for another couple of years. Good Luck!! PS: If the nut retaining washer brakes off, you will have to get another one from somewhere so bend it back slowly as they are not easy to find in the local parts mega-store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdeep2001 Posted December 18, 2006 Author Share Posted December 18, 2006 I was able to adjust my brake shoes to where they actually come in contact with the wheel when i push the brake pedal! I havent had a chance to look at the actual shoes yet. When looking at the hub after taking my wheel off, I saw the four things you screw your lug nuts onto(can't for the life of me remember what those are called...) and a black round thing in the middle? Is that where the bearing cap you're talking about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdeep2001 Posted December 19, 2006 Author Share Posted December 19, 2006 anybody? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 the four things you screw your lug nuts onto Studs. and a black round thing in the middle? Bearing cap / cover. Tap lightly, sideways with a hammer while turning the drum, it will work it's way out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdeep2001 Posted December 20, 2006 Author Share Posted December 20, 2006 Studs. Bearing cap / cover. Tap lightly, sideways with a hammer while turning the drum, it will work it's way out. Tap the bearing cap/cover while turning the drum and the drum will come off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 Tap the bearing cap/cover while turning the drum and the drum will come off? Sorry, the cap will come off. Then you can get at the locking device, nut, etc... The cap should be a stamped sheetmetal cup wiht a ridge rolled into the edge. The ridge should be up against the brake drum if the cap was installed properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdeep2001 Posted December 20, 2006 Author Share Posted December 20, 2006 oh ok thx, ill check it out when i get a chance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somick Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 pry off the center cap that covers the bearing. Remove it. You will see a big nut, probably 36 mm. Carefully remove it. I think it is torqued only to about 30 pounds. Remove a lock washer (unbent it). Remove the regular washer and an outer bearing.CAREFULLY pull the wheel and drum off as one piece: there is an inner bearing that will want to jump out as well. I hope it will work for you. When you assemble it back tighten it until the wheel stops moving and then back it off 1/4 turn. Sam Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdeep2001 Posted December 30, 2006 Author Share Posted December 30, 2006 Thanks a million guys shoes are done! I also repacked my bearings with grease(fun experience, never done before, but i have a very helpful friend) and noticed one of them is bad. autoparts store had to order it and it will come in tomorrow so i temporarily repacked the "bad" bearing just to get me to work tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somick Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 Thanks a million guys shoes are done! I also repacked my bearings with grease(fun experience, never done before, but i have a very helpful friend) and noticed one of them is bad. autoparts store had to order it and it will come in tomorrow so i temporarily repacked the "bad" bearing just to get me to work tomorrow. As far as I remember Haynes manual recomends it to pressed at a machine shop, but I have done myself without any problems. Tap it gently and EVENLY around the outer race with a punch and you will be able to remove it out the drum. The same way you put a new race in. Just make sure it is going in strait. Good luck, Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrdeep2001 Posted December 31, 2006 Author Share Posted December 31, 2006 Sam, Im not exactly sure what you mean by a "race" I repacked the bearings with wheel/bearing grease :-\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 31, 2006 Share Posted December 31, 2006 Parts of a bearing: Inner race Rollers / balls Cage - keeps the rollers / balls from touching. Outer race Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somick Posted December 31, 2006 Share Posted December 31, 2006 Sam, Im not exactly sure what you mean by a "race" I repacked the bearings with wheel/bearing grease :-\ I hope this will help: http://science.howstuffworks.com/bearing3.htm When you remove the drum you will see the outer race sitting in it. It has to be removed and replaced with a new one (the one that comes with the new bearing). The new bearing consists of three parts: outer race (goes inside the drum) balls, and inner race. Here you have another link. You will be able to see how it looks: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/racatalog.php And as far as I remember you will need two sets of bearngs: inner and outer. As soon as you remove the drum you will see what I am taling about. Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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