211 Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 I'm revisiting an issue addressed a while back: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66817 To summarize, the problem is with the ignition. Most of the time the car starts NO PROBLEM, but every once in a while when I turn the key I get nothing. Dash lights come on and everything else seems normal but no start. This is becoming hard to diagnose because it doesn't happen that often. When it does, sometimes I can hold the key in start position and eventually it'll light off. As recommeded in the previous thread, I checked the fusable links and various other connections and everything seems fine. I did notice last time this happened that as I "bump" the ignition I can hear the starter click. So my new question is, is this starter related- perhaps intermittent solenoid problem- or is this still a crank circuit issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncoolperson Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 with my pos american car similar symptoms finally lead to the starter being toast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 2, 2006 Share Posted December 2, 2006 The problem is the ignition switch, and could also be somewhat the inhibitor switch in the auto shifter. The contacts are burned an not passing enough current to engage the starter solenoid completely. It's not passing enough current to fully engage the starter solenoid. Easiest way to fix it on an Auto is to run a new wire from the switch harness (black, six pin connector under the column) to activate a relay on the firewall that applies full power to the starter solenoid. The problem is both the ignition switch, AND the inhibitor switch. Trying to "fix" it is really just an excersize in futility because once the switches are burned (usually from repeated starting attempts when the car was out of gas, or something silly) they can't be brought back. And replaceing them is a pain. Running a new wire with a relay will bypass the inhibitor completely (like a manual), and prevent any more burning of the switch contacts as the relay current is very small. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldDiggerRoo Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 I've had several cars that have had this issue, Subaru's and other, since it seems to come and go rarely, I never felt like putting much time/money into replacing parts. So, I'll tell you how to fix it for less than $5. Take two wires, run one to the bolt on (hot) wire on the starter, the other into the black plug that goes onto the starter (you could tie it in some other way I guess). Hook them both up to a momentary toggle switch from Radio Shack and next time you have the problem, hit the momentay and it'll turn right on over. On most older american cars the same can be acheived by hooking the wires to the starter relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 I've had several cars that have had this issue, Subaru's and other, since it seems to come and go rarely, I never felt like putting much time/money into replacing parts. So, I'll tell you how to fix it for less than $5. Take two wires, run one to the bolt on (hot) wire on the starter, the other into the plug that does onto the starter (you could tie it in some other way I guess. Hook them both up to a momentary toggle switch from Radio Shack and next time you have the problem, hit the momentay and it'll turn right on over. On most older american cars the same can be acheived by hooking the wires to the starter relay. That is extremely ghetto, and takes almost as long as installing a proper relay. Much, much *less* time if you include the 3.5 minutes you'll spend for the rest of your days popping the hood to get at the silly switch, and then the hour you will spend next year replacing the hood release cable that you have worn out. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldDiggerRoo Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 That is extremely ghetto, and takes almost as long as installing a proper relay. Much, much *less* time if you include the 3.5 minutes you'll spend for the rest of your days popping the hood to get at the silly switch, and then the hour you will spend next year replacing the hood release cable that you have worn out. GD Yeah, make sure the wires are long enough to run inside the car, if having a switch panel inside the car get's you off, this is one more switch you'll have to oggle over. I'm never keen on hacking into a harness on my cars, I hate electrical work, it's a quick, old school fix that works with parts that most people have lying around in their toolbox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 I'm never keen on hacking into a harness on my cars, I hate electrical work, it's a quick, old school fix that works with parts that most people have lying around in their toolbox. What hacking? If anything your method requires more hacking. All you are doing is using the start signal to close a relay. There's no real hacking involved - just punch the pin out of the body side connector for the ignition switch, and run it to the starter area. Ground, and battery power don't require any hacking - just a wire to the battery and a couple to ground for the relay. What you are advocating is using another switch when you already have one IN the ignition switch. Using what you already have with a low-current relay makes more sense, and it's cleaner. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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