Just installed Weber - throttle cable a bit too short?

[Singlecoil]

The CV is either (as you imagine) the CV itself, or it's the axle nut come loose. Happens a LOT. I sugest doing the axle yourself so you KNOW it's tight. Replace the cone washer under the axle nut with a new one from the dealer.

It seems to have been the nut. I took the cotter pin out, put the 36mm socket on, and the nut came off easily with just my hand, no breaker bar or wrench. There seems to be a flat washer on the thing. I'm guessing the cone washers allow you to keep the nut tight while ensuring that the holes for the cotter pin line up. Otherwise, you may have to back the nut off slightly, thereby loosening the nut. Looks like I need a couple of those. Autozone was out of the GCK axles, like you suspected. I looked at a new A1Carbone, but it looked quite a bit different than the OEM. I actually have one on the other side and it doesn't seem to fit all that well. I picked up a reman A1 with a lifetime warranty that looked excellent, but I might be taking it back since the noise has gone away.

Definately get a timing light. Harbor Frieght has them cheap. Set your timing to 7 or 8 degrees. And you idle speed needs to be around 700 to 800 or the dieseling won't stop.

Set it at about 8, turned the idle down, and things seem pretty good. I'm a little confused about the removing the vacuum advance to set the timing like the Chilton book and the timing light manual said. It said to remove the vacuum advance line and cap the end. Which end, the disty or carb side? I tried both, but it didn't seem to matter at all. My engine ran the same with it plugged in or not.

 

The rough idle could be a vacuum leak. Test the pot on the distributor by putting a length of vac hose on it, and sucking on the end. The pot should move the lever inside the distributor, and it should not return till you stop sucking. If it does or doesn't move at all, then the rubber diapham is shot.

GD

This may be my culprit. I popped the disty cap off, unhooked the carb end of the vacuum advance line and sucked away. The pot moved when I sucked but then moved back even though I was still sucking. I tried several times but there was no way I could keep the pot in the moved position; it kept going back. That means the vacuum advance is bad? Can I just replace that, or do I need a new disty? By the way, the second vacuum port on the disty, the outer one, is supposed to be left open, i.e. not capped, correct?

Thanks again everybody for the replies.

[GeneralDisorder]

Set it at about 8, turned the idle down, and things seem pretty good. I'm a little confused about the removing the vacuum advance to set the timing like the Chilton book and the timing light manual said. It said to remove the vacuum advance line and cap the end. Which end, the disty or carb side? I tried both, but it didn't seem to matter at all. My engine ran the same with it plugged in or not.

 

Sounds fine. That's normal. There shouldn't be any advance at idle anyway. The Haynes manual is just trying to be thorough, but there's no need to plug anything.

 

This may be my culprit. I popped the disty cap off, unhooked the carb end of the vacuum advance line and sucked away. The pot moved when I sucked but then moved back even though I was still sucking. I tried several times but there was no way I could keep the pot in the moved position; it kept going back. That means the vacuum advance is bad? Can I just replace that, or do I need a new disty? By the way, the second vacuum port on the disty, the outer one, is supposed to be left open, i.e. not capped, correct?

Thanks again everybody for the replies.

 

Yep - the pot diaphram is shot so you aren't getting probably any real advance from it. There's a place in Portland that can rebuild them for like $25. Outer port should be left open as you say. You can try the junk yard too. The pot just unbolts from the distributor so you don't have to replace the whole disty.

 

GD

[GeneralDisorder]

Oh yeah - the axle nut thing is common. Whoever did your axle or had that side apart failed to properly torque the nut to the spec 150 lbs or more (I usually go as tight as I possibly can). You need to get a NEW cone washer from the dealer or it will probably happen again. If it's got really bad, the axle and hub might have to be replaced as well as the splines can wear to a point that no amount of torque even with the proper cone washer will keep it from comming loose. Been there, done that.

 

Make sure you put the concave side of the spring flat washer facing inward towards the cone washer when you assemble it.

 

GD

[CornerHard]

It sounds like I will need to buy a timing light and check my ignition timing. I work around my dieseling for now by going WOT as I turn the car off. I guess once the spark cuts, there's enough unburned fuel to drown out the dieseling when the RPMs come back down.

[CornerHard]

It sounds like I will need to buy a timing light and check my ignition timing. I work around my dieseling for now by going WOT as I turn the car off. I guess once the spark cuts, there's enough unburned fuel to drown out the dieseling when the RPMs come back down.

 

After talking to the Redline guys about some other issues, they sent me a link to this: http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/weber_carburetor_bench_assembly.htm

 

Now that I have my throttle plate freed, I can adjust the idle low enough that my dieseling goes away

[Andy FitzGibbon]

When I bought my 85 GL (Weber previously installed) it had a bad vaccum leak and a leaking EGR gasket on the head. Still ran OK at speed, but idled rough and consistently dieseled at shutoff. Got 24 MPG on a three hour highway drive. Then I checked the timing- 18 degrees! I suspect someone read the "20" on the flywheel as a "10" while trying to set it to 8. After correcting that and tuning the idle mixture, so far it only diesels on really hot days. I doubt it's a problem that can be gotten rid of entirely without adding an anti dieseling solenoid like the stock carbs have.

Andy