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Well...my 2000 OBW finally did it. The infamous cracked head gasket on the 2.5. I'm leaking coolant and tried using stop leak, flushed the coolant put in specially formulated head gasket fixer, but only worked temporarily. I'm leaking a small ammounts of coolant from the head again. I know I'm going to have to replace the head gasket. I know it's going to really expensive to take it some where (i'd assume betwee $500-$1000) to replace the head gasket. I'm thinking about doing it myself and saving the money. I need to do some research on EXACTLY how to do it. Anyone have any tips? What tools do I need?

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search the forum here, there are TONS of threads, information and a webiste documenting the entire affair. as a matter of fact right now DONT'T TOUCH ANYTHING. scroll down and look at the bottom left of this webpage, you'll see a list of similar threads, many of them listing "headgasket" in the title that will help. the search function will give you more. as a matter of fact - all five have nearly an identical title to your postm ,there's lots more once you start hitting the search button too. some time reading and searching will be well spent.

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Subaru provided an extended warranty on your model year engine specifically for external head gasket leaks. Coverage was extended to 100,000 miles. EVEN if you're over 100,000 miles, I would suggest contacting SOA. It is very possible that SOA might pick up a portion of the repair costs. It costs nothing to try.

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good point THE DUDE, that's a good thing to look up too, there are a good many users that have had success with Subaru replacing the headgaskets.

 

and the job would run a minimum of $1,000 typically closer to the $1,500 for a complete job....clutch and other items while it's out. although the local dealer here charges $1,500 just for the headgaskets alone...that doesn't even include a new timing belt/water pump.

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What leak are you experiencing? Just external? Or are you having the exhaust blowing into coolant/oil issue? How many miles do you have on? (concerned as I too have an '00obw!) :eek:

 

As far as tools to replace the HG's yourself, you probably need an engine hoist, optionally an engine stand, and of course a good assortment of hand tools. Harbor Freight has engine hoists and stands on sale all the time.

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So...is it really necessary to pull the engine to do sube head gaskets? Only car I've done it on was an old Datsun, and it was not a tough job. Of course, this was a transverse mounted engine, w/ head up top (and only one head, natch), so access was much easier.

 

Does seem like it'd be awkward and tough on one's back to access everything, with engine in place, on a boxer, but it does seem like clearance would be fine. Recently did valve cover gaskets on my '02 2.5, and clearance was tight, but not a real issue -- and with those out...much more clearance for the heads. Is it really easier or required to pull the whole engine?

 

$1500 sure sounds like a lot for that job. Never having done it, who am I to say, but...how could it be that much more than, say, a clutch?

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I've heard/read the head gaskets can be done with the engine in place, but it recommended only if you don't have a hoist or method to pull the engine. I'd guess the valvetrain on each head would have to be removed first to get the required clearance? Maybe the engine also has to be rocked?

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So...is it really necessary to pull the engine to do sube head gaskets? Only car I've done it on was an old Datsun, and it was not a tough job. Of course, this was a transverse mounted engine, w/ head up top (and only one head, natch), so access was much easier.

 

Does seem like it'd be awkward and tough on one's back to access everything, with engine in place, on a boxer, but it does seem like clearance would be fine. Recently did valve cover gaskets on my '02 2.5, and clearance was tight, but not a real issue -- and with those out...much more clearance for the heads. Is it really easier or required to pull the whole engine?

 

$1500 sure sounds like a lot for that job. Never having done it, who am I to say, but...how could it be that much more than, say, a clutch?

 

 

You can do it with the engine on!

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If you leave the engine in place, The place that you could have problems is getting the cam bolts out. In my DOHC both cams had to come out in order to get to the head bolts. The cam bolts were tighter than a ***************. If you mess up the bolts it gets a lot deeper. Be sure to get the torque specs for all of the bolts. Note there are 2 different size bolts for the cam bolts. Also 2 different torques. Also a specific pattern and process to tightening the head bolts.

 

Be sure you get the latest and greatest version of gasket. If you have all the details you should be ok.

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So...is it really necessary to pull the engine to do sube head gaskets?
no, it's matter of oppinion and personal preference. i never pull the motor unless it has to come out for something else - replace trans or clutch too. here's what i recommend to mitigate this stupid argument - if you have air tools then do it in the car, it's really easy. if you have hand tools then maybe pulling it is the way to go. either way it can definitely be done in the car without much hassle. it is super nice to have the engine out of the car to work on but it also takes alot of time and effort to get it out and back in.

 

$1500 sure sounds like a lot for that job. Never having done it, who am I to say, but...how could it be that much more than, say, a clutch?

a clutch is really easy to replace. swap some components - flywheel, cluch, throw out bearing, pilot bearing and some new clips and you're done. that stuff is all in the same place, all sitting there together. that can be done in 30 minutes. head gaskets are an entirely different level of complication, requires disassembling the entire front of the engine - all the belts, timing belts, then on to the valve covers, heads, intake manifold, exhaust, cams, milling the heads, cleaning parts, checking valve clearances, replacing seals and gaskets, having the heads checked/machined...they're totally different jobs in terms of time.
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  • 4 weeks later...

I just pulled mine out yesteday because I am doing the head gaskets as a result of pulling the PS head due to bent valves (jumped time). Since I am doing the timing belt, idlers, water pump, etc it wasn't that much more work to just yank it out. I bought an engine hoist from Pep Boys for $119 after rebate. No freight involved ($$$). It made removal pretty easy. I didn't want to try to do the heads, etc in the car because I've got a bad back and I would like to walk the next day. It's sore enough now.

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