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Can you share on how to mod the EA82 skip plate installations? Is it for the front bottom part of the engine or its for rear differential? Some pictures would be nice.

I appreciate it

Thanks

 

 

 

Legacy spedo's seem to run 5mph high, ex. road speed is 55, indicated speed is 60

 

Outback spedo's seem to run 2mph low, ex road speed is 55, indicated speed is 53.

 

When you put on outback wheels and tires, your spedo will read 2mph low. Nothing to worry about.

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the shorter bumper on the brighton makes it look taller.

 

Pix:

PIC000022.JPG PIC000041.JPG PIC000071.JPG

 

That's a 95 legacy Brighton with Outback struts + Outback wheels and tires. The snow makes it look lower, when you're in another car and see it, you can tell it's higher than normal. The car it's compared against is the 1998 Outback that I rebuilt for my mom.

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Was going over a list of useless stuff I put into my Brighton, and found smth that I actually use a lot - variable speed intermittent wipers. And fairly easy to swap too.

 

What's involved with that? I'm putting in the control stalk for the rear wiper out of a 97 outback. The wiring for the rear wiper is in the car, and the squirter hose is run from front to back. I can get the washer tank and motor, the relay, and the control stalk cheap.

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What's involved with that? I'm putting in the control stalk for the rear wiper out of a 97 outback. The wiring for the rear wiper is in the car, and the squirter hose is run from front to back. I can get the washer tank and motor, the relay, and the control stalk cheap.

Mine is 96, so there's rear wiper from the factory. And I don't know whehter you can use only control stalk. I had to swap the whole column switch since wiper stalk does not just unscrew like on later imprezas, but is soldered to intermittant module circuit board.

I had to get the switch from 96-97 LS/LSi/GT wagon. I have no idea if that will also fit 95, you might be able to solder the outback stalk, but you will probably need the intermittant control module as well if you want variable speed option.

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The circuit board is a part of the wiper switch assembly. The whole thing attaches to the combination switch body with two screws. The p/n in question (for wagons) is 83113AA520, mine was installed last summer.

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The circuit board is a part of the wiper switch assembly. The whole thing attaches to the combination switch body with two screws. The p/n in question (for wagons) is 83113AA520, mine was installed last summer.

Yeah, I guess you can do that too, but those screws are on the back of the column switch, and hard to get to. I just swapped the whole thing.

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To replace a complete switch, you need to remove the steering wheel. Timewise, the effort might be about the same because it involves less fiddling with the wiring. Costwise, with brand new parts, there's a big difference. With used parts, it's not an issue but the required top-of-the-line donor vehicles may be scarce in salvage yards (still, if only the wiper switch is replaced, choices are wider because an adjustable switch from any 1990-99 Legacy will do). On NASIOC, write-ups are posted on how to do it either way.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Replaced the combo switch with one out of a 1997 legacy.

NOTE: the clockspring must match the steering wheel. My 1995 wheel was different than the 1997 wheel, so I had to swap the clockspring over to the other combo switch. Now the rear wiper relay clicks in the back and the sprayer motor works up front. I swapped in a dual pump resavaur.

 

The wiper relay is mounted to the body inside the rear right quarter panel. I had heard you had to put it in when you installed a rear wiper, but when I got the whole interior apart to get to it, it was already there and hooked up. WTF. Oh well, only broke 1 stupid clip on the window trim and wasted 3/4 of an hour.

 

Cruise control switch bolts right up to the 1995 steering wheel. You have to splice the +12 wire for the horn if you have horn buttons instead of a horn pad. Not a big deal, but have a connector and a crimper handy. Use a matt knife to cut a notch out of the trim piece on the steering wheel so that the cruise control stalk will poke through. The wiring is there for the brake and clutch switches. Leave the stock clutch switch plugged in and add in the other one where the pedal stop bolt was.

 

The cruise control computer goes on the drivers side on MOST legacys. Unfortanately, the 1995 was a first year and not quite standardized model, so the connector is on the passengers side, behind the kickpanel. Took a while to find that one, and mounting the computer was a pain. Everything works great. Did you know that cruise can't be set under 30 mph, but resume works anywhere above 30mph? Set the cruise at 50, cancle, slow down to 20, and hit resume! Lots of fun.

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I replaced all the little dash lights that had blown out. I tossed the radio to my dad and had him solder new bulbs to the board to light the radio back up. Now all the origional illuminated buttons light up again. Way cool.

 

Went out for a night drive. So much easier to use the dash controls when you can see what the frig your pushing.

 

 

I'm going to get the rear hatch lock actuator out of the outback in the junkard. I'd like to wire it up with a pushbutton switch down by the fuel door release so that you could lock the back without going back and using the key, which is a PITA.

 

With that and the rear wiper motor, I should be about satisfied with the option level on the car.

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I'd like to swap the interior in my 90 wagon with the gray leather interior out of an LSi if I ever find a complete one lol..... Mine is currently red with icky tan interior :dead: even worse since the seats are dirty. Tried using my upholstery vacuum on them but they didnt' come clean :-( Carpet looks really good though lol.

 

If addign cruise is easy enough, I'm going to go yank the cruise of of the next subie I poke in @ the wreckign yard, Jessica's 93 Imp doesn't have cruise, and long drives in it suck...

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  • 2 weeks later...

picking up a Brighton this week. I am heading to the yard tomorrow to snag some parts... I would like to upgrade the rear drums to disks... I need the fronts too huh?? Oh, well. I am also gonna grab some outback struts. This is a great thread for this:)

 

Tom

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The rear drums seem to do a great job. I may swap the front's to the dual piston calipers, but I think I'll leave the rear alone.

 

The best used upgrades are the outback struts, the cruise control, the tachometer, and the map lights. The other's are just frosting on the cake.

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thanks... i guess when it comes time to do the brakes... I may do the swap but meanwhile I am gonna leave the brakes alone and see how I like em.... Dropping an 04 wrx trans and an SVX rear diff w/ LSD into it because it has a botched 3rd gear aparently... Can't complain for $600... the trans will be worth more than the car...:eek: oh well... this thing is gonna last me well into 400k mileage

 

Tom

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I'm going to get the rear hatch lock actuator out of the outback in the junkard. I'd like to wire it up with a pushbutton switch down by the fuel door release so that you could lock the back without going back and using the key, which is a PITA.

 

 

oohh, I want to hear more about this. My hatch lock sucks.

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picked up a new hatch for my wagon, a new pass side door and 4 outback struts yesterday... Also snagged a dash cluster out of a 98 and the map lights... Only put the dash cluster in so far... took some dissasembly to make the speedo work and I had to take out the Air bag light but now I have a trip meter that works:clap: and a tach:headbang: all with red needles and a cluster that lights up MUCH better

 

Tom

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  • 1 month later...

Up-optioned it some more today.

 

I picked up a subaru CD player out of a 1994 legacy GT at the junkyard for $10. Cleaned the nicotine film off of the face of it, and plugged it into the headunit in the Brighton. Works fine. Bolts into place too. The face sticks out about 1/8" beyond the radio face, but the trim panel fits perfectly.

 

The only modification I had to make was hooking up the illumination light wires. I had to remove the pins from the 94 legacy connector, then clip the connector body to the CD player. I pulled the pins out of the 95 legacy wiring harness connector and slid them into the 94 connector body while it was clipped into the CD player. The pins hold the wires in pretty good, but the crimped end sticks out, so there is the potential for a short. I figured that the radio, CD player, and wiring harness doesn't move much back there, so it should be fine.

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