cutoffman Posted December 19, 2006 Share Posted December 19, 2006 I have a 1999 Legacy 2.2 with 72,000 miles that runs hot. Radiator-thermostat-water pump has all been replaced. New head gaskets and the heads have been pulled twice and have been reworked and double checked. After repairs engine ran fine for first 50-100 miles and then started to run hot. Fluid does not circulate through bottom hose when this happens. Temp. gage moves to H mark and moves 2 notches up or down on the open road while driving. It now runs hot by the time thermostat has time to open. My mechanic has tried everything-I am about to give up-over $1800.00 for repairs and still runs hot. Under warranty by mechanic for work he has done. We can find no leaks of any kind. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjreilly Posted December 19, 2006 Share Posted December 19, 2006 Was it an OEM thermostat? The feeling seems to be that OEM is the only way to go for the thermostat. cheers, matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted December 19, 2006 Share Posted December 19, 2006 drive northwest until you find a hill, park pointing uphill and burp it. what was done first and why? did it overheat before? could be you started with one problem corrected that and ran into another one in the process, like air bubble in the cooling system. hope it's that simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutoffman Posted December 19, 2006 Author Share Posted December 19, 2006 First time ran hot was out of town. Took it to a local mechanic and thermostat was changed. He even drilled 3 small holes in thermostat plate to make sure it did not overheat and coolant would circulate. Ran fine for 75 miles and then started heating up-drove it home another 100+ miles and temp. gage stayed on 2 marks before H. up and down as long as I was moving. No AC being used. Took it to local mechanic and he diagnosed as blown head gasket-when engine cool and it was cranked you could see white smoke boiling out the exhaust. New thermostat-new head gaskets and a head job. Got it back and started again after about 50 miles-found a hole in radiator neck where top hose hooks on-new OEM radiator at this time-pulled heads had them rechecked under warranty-installed new head gaskets-(stated gasket bad)-new water pump per me at this time. Drove it this time around town for 150 miles or so-no problem. Wife driving it-turns the heat on from AC running and valves start rattling-within a few minutes it starts to run hot. AC will not cool until engine cools down and then will continue to cool if it runs hot. Heat works okay. Mechanic has it now trying to figure the problem. I am assuming he burped it-have not asked him-will when I talk to him again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 19, 2006 Share Posted December 19, 2006 Has anyone checked to make sure the electric cooling fans are operating and operating properly? nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutoffman Posted December 19, 2006 Author Share Posted December 19, 2006 Has anyone checked to make sure the electric cooling fans are operating and operating properly? nipper Yep. I did and mechanic did also, operating like they are suppose to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 My 2.2 run hot, and the cause was the radiator was dirty, I had taken it out to have it rodded and it only needed the outer fins washed out. You might check that if you travel on unpaved roads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 im guessing you have a cracked block or bad heads. the initial overheat probably cracked the block or heads. the more it was driven hot(which i would suspect if it was out of town, away from nowhere), the more likely this becomes. if it's loosing coolant, coming out the tailpipe at start up, then it could be the block or heads. often the heads are not pressure tested, only milled, checked for flatness and possibly a valve job. it's an expense that is rarely needed, but if it's skipped and you miss a bad head you end up in a bad situation. is it loosing coolant? that would indicate to me it's what i just mentioned. if it's not loosing coolant i'd suspect the system isn't working properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutoffman Posted December 28, 2006 Author Share Posted December 28, 2006 I have a 1999 Legacy 2.2 with 72,000 miles that runs hot. Radiator-thermostat-water pump has all been replaced. New head gaskets and the heads have been pulled twice and have been reworked and double checked. After repairs engine ran fine for first 50-100 miles and then started to run hot. Fluid does not circulate through bottom hose when this happens. Temp. gage moves to H mark and moves 2 notches up or down on the open road while driving. It now runs hot by the time thermostat has time to open. My mechanic has tried everything-I am about to give up-over $1800.00 for repairs and still runs hot. Under warranty by mechanic for work he has done. We can find no leaks of any kind. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Well-to bring this up to-date-Mechanic tore block down and found a couple of pistons that will have to be replaced along with other problems. He has quoted me a price of $2500.00 complete for labor and parts, etc. to rebuild and machine shop service included. Is this a decent price for Georgia area?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montana105 Posted December 28, 2006 Share Posted December 28, 2006 Did mechanic check block and heads for cracks? You are getting into some serious expenses here,might want to find a new or used engine tp put in. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 Dang for that price you could probably get a CCR (Colorodo Component Rebuilders) engine and just have it put in (seeing as how the mechanic has the engine out already). Definitely check the radiator for obstructions too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 Dang for that price you could probably get a CCR (Colorodo Component Rebuilders) engine and just have it put in (seeing as how the mechanic has the engine out already). Definitely check the radiator for obstructions too. CHECK CCR OR GOOD USED AT CAR-PART.COM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 I would NO WAY pay 2,500 for a 2.2 in a million years. You can get one of Ebay for 400 bucks. If my engine failed @ 72K miles twice I would dump the whole engine. While you are at it CHECK that radiator and or replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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