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5spd conversion in 80 wagon complete!


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wooooooohooooooooooo!!!!

 

tried the spacer idea (from the other thread)

and it works great! (although i still had to get out the air chizel and zap it a few times to pound the tunnel out.... but now it doesnt rub at all, and it runs great! It runs much better on the freeway with the different gear ratios, and the linkage is not as sloppy as the 4spd either :D

 

 

thanks Jerry, despite the weird issues some of us have had, your kit works just fine! (just some of our cars that are different than the brat need some special add-ons)

 

now if i can just figure out the clutch cable thing.....

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My subaru is driving... Its so fast its hilarious! Little green wagon just SMASHIN down the block hee hee. Is it normal to whine in 1st gear? And it kinda is hard to shift the gears like the synchros are bad maybe? Other then that the car is awesome. Very pleased! I just gotta hook up the 4wd linkage and take emissions maybe tomorrow.

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Matt, some gearboxes whine in first; not exactly normal, but nothing to worry about. Hard shifting could be due to a mis-adjusted clutch; if you don't dis-engage the tranny completely the shifting can be mighty difficult. Check for clutch pedal play before you do anything drastic.

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I still gotta bany my tunnel a little tinsy bit and paint some surface rust. Oh and install some new exhaust gaskets. then Ive gotta get the glove box light to work and the cargo light too. and also a 4WD low light and switch. Yo Matt, the boost controller is almost done... hehehehe :headbang::clap::drunk: :bday:

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stupidru:

a 1 inch would mostly be enough. but the good thing about 1 inc of lift, all you would have to lift is the trans crossmember and the swaybar mounts.

 

the front crossmember and struts can be left alone, if your goal is to fit a 5spd in there.

 

the washers alone can get you a good inch, as long as your bolts are long enough. if some of the bolts are too short, go find some that go to a MT crossmember, and use them where they may be needed for lift!

 

matt: even though 4wd is not hooked up, you can still engage 4wd either by the linkage off the trans(from under the car) or from the side of the trans from under the hood.

 

all the way in is 2wd, all the way out is 4wd lo

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Miles, so what your saying is I don't need to lift the whole car as long as I'm lifting trans crossmember and the swaybar mounts with washers. Matt, I was just going to swap in a single range 5speed cause I never go 4 wheelin. I think I can use my old drive shaft & axle's for this swap...correct?

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if the single range is from a NA, it will work with the axles. if its from a turbo, you will need turbo axles, wont fit on an ea81. but the doj(at least from mine) will fit ona 2wd axle, so the doj will most likely fit an ea81 axle(if the doj is same diameter)

 

i am under the impression that the single range trans used the same driveshaft as dual range, and rx trans. so the driveshaft mod would apply.

 

the turbo 5spd is 3.7 final gear. i would assume the na is also, but i know that 3.7 is turbo specific

 

oh, i meant turbo axles as in ea82, 27(or is it 29) splines (the bigger one)

 

the auto in the ea81t has the same spline as normal trannies, axles will fit a 5spd d/r. wed 5spd, auto, and 4wd auto, and i believe non turbo 5spd single range.

 

do you have a 5spd single range? once i get my xt6 trans, i will; come off my 5spd, with the DOJ to them. but i need my driveshaft.

we can deal as long as we an figue a way to get it there, or get you here!

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Your not lifting the thing so much as you are DROPPING the trans 1". Hard to tell if this will be enough or not. You may still need to do some minimal beating.

 

Austins idea to use an air chisel is a good one. That ought to teach it a lesson I would think.

 

Also - I wouldn't personally use a whole 1" of washers as a long term soloution to the problem. Yes - it worked for me, and I did drive it some, but I am not comfortable reccomending you do this for a long term solution. Maybe it would work - maybe it wouldn't. I did it knowing that it would come back out shortly when the lift went in. The problem I see with the washers is there is no shear strength to them. They have no sideways rigidity, and you could potentially shear off one of those bolts pretty easy. Also - DO NOT use the stock bolts if you go a whole inch with washers on the radius plates - there not long enough, and you won't engage enough thread.

 

If you want it for long term use, I say get some 1" square iron, and drill some holes in 1"x1" blocks of the stuff, and get some longer bolts. Basically make yourself 6 miniature lift blocks.

 

GD

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Somewhere along the line someone put 2wd axles instead of turbo axles on my ea81t. The only reason I know this is cause Subaru did an axle for me, they found that turbo boot wouldn't fit on 2wd axle. I'll have to put some more thought into the lift cause my daughter will also be driving the car, I want it to be safe, she doesn't want to drive the Ford....hummm another Subaru Freak. Thanks fellas.

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  • 6 months later...
wooooooohooooooooooo!!!!

 

tried the spacer idea (from the other thread)

and it works great! (although i still had to get out the air chizel and zap it a few times to pound the tunnel out.... but now it doesnt rub at all, and it runs great! It runs much better on the freeway with the different gear ratios, and the linkage is not as sloppy as the 4spd either :D

 

 

thanks Jerry, despite the weird issues some of us have had, your kit works just fine! (just some of our cars that are different than the brat need some special add-ons)

 

now if i can just figure out the clutch cable thing.....

What clutch setup did you use?
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What clutch setup did you use?
Hey desertsubaru This is Jerry, i use the EA81 flywheel the EA82 disc the EA81 puresser plate and the EA82 release bearing and fork. When you use this set up you will have to space your starter out a lock washer distance so it won't stay engage with the flywheel. The clutch cable is the stock 1 but sometimes you need to cut the bracket that holds the cable next to the bellhouseing. Move the cut bracket closer to the clutch fork and reweld it. Thanks Jerry
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I found that I had to find an '88 clutch cable to go with my '88 5 speed D/R; the original 4 speed cable wouldn't adjust the clutch properly. Jerry, I have the EA82 flywheel and clutch assembly; seems to work just fine. I didn't notice if you put the lock washers under the starter motor.

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Hey desertsubaru This is Jerry, i use the EA81 flywheel the EA82 disc the EA81 puresser plate and the EA82 release bearing and fork. When you use this set up you will have to space your starter out a lock washer distance so it won't stay engage with the flywheel. The clutch cable is the stock 1 but sometimes you need to cut the bracket that holds the cable next to the bellhouseing. Move the cut bracket closer to the clutch fork and reweld it. Thanks Jerry
Thank you Jerry for the info! what im doing is putting 1982 EA81 into my 1986 Ea82 car. do i still have to move the clutch cable mount? icon5.gif
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I found that I had to find an '88 clutch cable to go with my '88 5 speed D/R; the original 4 speed cable wouldn't adjust the clutch properly. Jerry, I have the EA82 flywheel and clutch assembly; seems to work just fine. I didn't notice if you put the lock washers under the starter motor.
Hi Ed This is Jerry, you used the EA82 set up and it don't need any spacers but the EA81 dose because the flywheel sticks out farther by 0.90 of an inch than the EA82 flywheel. Thanks Jerry
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