Immediate help needed for my disloyal Loyale!

[NewDriverOlderRide]

1993 Loyale 5 Spd. pushbutton 4WD

 

Alright, So my car is runnin like crap(Barely drivable) It seems to get worse the more I drive it, It has these syptoms in warm OR cold weather. It is very rough, Stumbles horribly, bogs, has crap acceleration(I couldnt even get it past 55mph!), sounds kind of "muffled" if that makes sense. So I search here and find out about the MAF and Coolant Sensors are common causes for this behavior.....So Today I goto clean them with some oven cleaner(I know Im retarded.) Anyways, I start to pull the wires off of some sensor(its located next to the Coolant sensor, they look very similar, except this one has 2 small wires going onto it) So I figure It wouldnt hurt to clean that sensor too, So i try to pull off those wires and one of then breaks(beyond the point of repair) So I immediately check if the car starts and luckily it does, BUT now my CEL is on so I check the codes and get this:

 

 

With NO connectors plugged in I get

 

21Coolant temperature sensor or circuit

 

 

With the White connectors I get:

 

11Crank angle sensor or circuit

13Crank angle sensor or circuit

21Coolant temperature or circuit

23Air flow meter or circuit

24Air control valve or circuit

 

Whoa! I break one wire and now ALL OF THESE appear!?!

keep in mind that my CEL never was on until after i broke the wire.

 

The car is still running terrible, no improvement at all.

 

Where do I begin? or should I just bring it to a shop?

 

 

Thanks,

Tyler.

[jeffast]

i would replace the maf to start with, they are very sensitive, i'd go to a parts store and get some maf and electronics cleaner and re clean whjat ever you cleaned yesterday, replace the thing you broke the wire on and see if you have any differance

[mellow65]

with no connectors plugged in is the way to flash the codes on your ecu. so if its the coolant sensor that is what needs to be replaced.

 

I had a horrible time tracking down my bogging problem, ended up being a cheap set of plug wires. If that is on your list of things to do get a good set of NGKs

 

but here was the list of things that i went through to find mine. at least you can just start going down the list and checking them off

 

its a place to start

 

Lets start the list.

plugs

wires

cap

rotor

fuel filter

air filter

clean and test MAF sensor and housing (mass air flow)

clean and test IAC (Idle air control)

test TPS (throttle positioning sensor)

check timing

test CTS (coolant temperature sensor)

test O2 sensor (oxygen sensor)

fuel pump

clean fuel pump inlet screen

[GeneralDisorder]

Replace the CTS first. Then retest in D-Check mode. White connectors are "read memory". Green connectors will put you in D-Check.

 

GD

[NewDriverOlderRide]

Replace the CTS first. Then retest in D-Check mode. White connectors are "read memory". Green connectors will put you in D-Check.

 

GD

 

So I recleaned the MAF and CTS with Carb Cleaner,fixed the sensor by soldering it, So now I DO NOT have a CEL, but the car runs rough still AND the temp guage on my dash does not work/

Somehow another guage(located right next to the CTS) is broke, they look identical Except, the one that is broke only has 1 wire to it.

 

I used seafoam the otherday, lots of smoke, didnt help much, if any.

 

Oh, anw when I ran it in D-Check(green connectors?) The light started flashing after a few minutes of driving? what does that mean?

[azsubaru]

The wire you broke probably was to the CTS - that sensor has two wires, and it would trigger the code 21. Also, when you disconnect a sensor, it can generate a bunch of codes like those you saw.

 

The temp guage is connected to the sensor that has only a single wire. Subaru calls it the 'thermometer.' Your problem may be the thermometer, the wiring, or the quage.

 

See Mark Humble's post in this thread on how to make a guage tester.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45578&highlight=black+lead+to+ground

 

For the poor running, make sure you'v echecked everything on mellow65's list. I've personally had similar problems at different times from a bad O2 sensor, bad plug wires, a bad TPS, and a fuel pump that was failing.

[hooziewhatsit]

the temp sensor next to the CTS with one prong on it is the gauge for the dash, so that's what that gauge isn't working.

 

The blinking light after driving with the greens connected is telling you it didn't find any codes. If it came on solid, then it found codes.

 

-Dave

[Gloyale]

The green connector is for setting timing and for d-check. Meaning Dealer. YOU DON'T REALLY NEED TO WORRY ABOUT THAT. There are TWO coolant tempature sensors! one used by the ECU(2 wires), one used by the dash board gauge(1 wire). The ECU one is very important to the way the car drives. Clean it's connectors well and hook it up. or replace it if you have to. You need it. The little one with a single wire only feeds the dash gauge so it doesn't affect driving a bit.(by the way if you take off that wire and touch it to ground the gauge should go to max. If it doesn't there is a break in the circuit or faulty gauge)

OK now that both tempature sensors are hooked up you can read codes. When you turn the key to on w/ eng off, you will get flashed recent or current codes. This is the u-check mode. If all you get here is the 21 code it probably means your 2 wire (ecu) tempature sensor is bad.

The read mode displays all codes triggered since the last time codes were cleared. You want to use the read connector under the dash.single pole connector, Usually black but your's is white? odd. any way plug it in. Key to on w/ eng off. now you will get all past codes. If you ran your vehicle with stuff unhooked or altered at all it will show codes from it. Perhaps this is how you got all those other codes?

 

To clear codes, plug in both the read connector under dash, and the green "test connector" under hood by wiper motor. Start the car and run it over 2000 rpms for 40 secondss or more till "ECS" light comes on.

Disconnect both and drive for awhile at all speeds(possible) then recheck in u-check. if no codes then check read mode. If there is then a code, it probably means a bad connection or an intermittent short in that circuit. check all connections.

 

So now that i've gone through all that, Your drivability problem sounds alot like timing being off. Check timing with a timing light, and the green "test" connector hooked up. Also it would be good to take outer ends of the timing covers off and check that you didn't break the pass. side one. The car will still run on the two drivers side cylinders but terribly lumpy and weak. look for rubber dust and signs of belt slippage or siezeure. That would also result in the timing being off

[Gloyale]

the temp sensor next to the CTS with one prong on it is the gauge for the dash, so that's what that gauge isn't working.

 

-Dave

 

This is unclear. Both are CTS's. Different types, but both for coolant temparture reading. The 2 wire one is what the ECU uses, very important. The one wire, smaller one is for the dash gauge.

[GeneralDisorder]

The green connector is for setting timing and for d-check. Meaning Dealer. YOU DON'T REALLY NEED TO WORRY ABOUT THAT.

 

Incorrect - D-Check is the prefered way to verify codes, and to test that they have been repaired succesfully. It does not require the "dealer" to operate it. You connect the green connectors, turn the ignition ON, depress the accelerator pedal completely, return to half throttle for 2 seconds then start and drive the car till either you get a code, or the systems flashes the CEL repeatedly to indicate no codes were found. It is MUCH more accurate than U-Check, and will find faults that will not show in U-Check.... to "prevent uneccesary uneasiness to be taken by the user".... directly from the FSM. It's quite useful, and very friendly to the home mechanic.

 

GD

[Gloyale]

Incorrect - D-Check is the prefered way to verify codes, and to test that they have been repaired succesfully. It does not require the "dealer" to operate it. You connect the green connectors, turn the ignition ON, depress the accelerator pedal completely, return to half throttle for 2 seconds then start and drive the car till either you get a code, or the systems flashes the CEL repeatedly to indicate no codes were found. It is MUCH more accurate than U-Check, and will find faults that will not show in U-Check.... to "prevent uneccesary uneasiness to be taken by the user".... directly from the FSM. It's quite useful, and very friendly to the home mechanic.

 

GD

 

Sorry, I guess I should have said "you don't need to worry about that now" The guy is obvoiusly still trying to figure out the code reading and I thought it would be easier for him to start with U check and read. Also Read memory will output all the codes that d-check does from the history. I have FSM's for all years 85-90 so I'm not talkin outta my butt. I was trying to offer a simple way for this guy to check his problem. (and explain that there are 2 coolant temp sensors! lol) I concede that D-check is useful but I think you have to have a real good grip on the basic modes and how to diagnos with them first

[GeneralDisorder]

Sorry, I guess I should have said "you don't need to worry about that now"

 

No need to appoligize. I just wanted to make sure he didn't totally disregard those green's - they have helped me immensly with odd running conditions not detected by U-check.

 

Definately read the codes first as Caleb pointed out.

 

GD