What about these rings on either side of the oil pump pully?

[Milemaker13]

So, I am putting the oil pump back together. The pully has a guide ring on either side to keep the belt tracking properly, I assume. The one that is next to the pump body fell off, and in its time freewheeling, managed to enlarge itself just a little. I got it back on there, but I don't think it's goin to stay. Should I leave it there, basically knowing it will fall off, Or just take the little bastard off? The belt can't really go anywhere, because the pump is right there, and I am concerned that the little ring may get jammed up at some point, ripping up the pump anyway. What do you all think? Has anybody (or everybody) experianced what I am talking about? 1992 EA82 Loyale 4x4 wagon. 117K. Thanks!

[bgd73]

The inside one is important, if you have two. there is the bolt on the lower right of pump that is real close to getting hit by belt. In fact I found one broken and sitting in the pump for reasons I could only assume to be an arctic breeze and too much heat getting too close for the tolerance- and it was a source of leak.

If this is what you are talking about, leave the belt guides on no doubts. Also, that lower right bolt could be swapped for a tougher version than sube used oem. To simply explain, find a bolt somewhere else on the car and swap with same pitch, length and diameter and it looks like the washer is built into the head of the bolt, leaving a washer unnecessary- its got a "fathead" and still 10 mm.It takes 10 more ft lbs than oems original. Upon looking at the pump off the car, the bolt pattern is assymetrical for pressure dispersal, and that lower right bolt gets more than the others. Keep the guides, and my other advice is an optional extra.

[Gloyale]

The inside one is important, if you have two. there is the bolt on the lower right of pump that is real close to getting hit by belt. In fact I found one broken and sitting in the pump for reasons I could only assume to be an arctic breeze and too much heat getting too close for the tolerance- and it was a source of leak.

If this is what you are talking about, leave the belt guides on no doubts. Also, that lower right bolt could be swapped for a tougher version than sube used oem. To simply explain, find a bolt somewhere else on the car and swap with same pitch, length and diameter and it looks like the washer is built into the head of the bolt, leaving a washer unnecessary- its got a "fathead" and still 10 mm.It takes 10 more ft lbs than oems original. Upon looking at the pump off the car, the bolt pattern is assymetrical for pressure dispersal, and that lower right bolt gets more than the others. Keep the guides, and my other advice is an optional extra.

 

 

I agree the rings are important. I would get a new pulley from a wrecker if you can't get the old one secure. as to using a different bolt for 10 more ft/lbs? Since it's always the threads in the aluminum block that strip, not the hard steel bolt, I don't see how you would get "10 more ft/lbs" The block would just strip. Of course Bgd73 seems to live in Bizarro world were physic don't apply. I say use the bolts that subaru spent R&D money to decide on. It is a really good idea to chase out the threads carefully with a tap before you reinstall the bolts and don't torque em too much. I'd say 20 ft/lbs is about tops even though the book calls for slightly more, I've seen too many strip

[scrap487]

I agree the rings are important. I would get a new pulley from a wrecker if you can't get the old one secure. as to using a different bolt for 10 more ft/lbs? Since it's always the threads in the aluminum block that strip, not the hard steel bolt, I don't see how you would get "10 more ft/lbs" The block would just strip. Of course Bgd73 seems to live in Bizarro world were physic don't apply. I say use the bolts that subaru spent R&D money to decide on. It is a really good idea to chase out the threads carefully with a tap before you reinstall the bolts and don't torque em too much. I'd say 20 ft/lbs is about tops even though the book calls for slightly more, I've seen too many strip

 

I believe the 10 extra ft/lbs is probably due to the fact that flanged bolts typically are cut underneath in a way that keeps them from backing off and adds more resistance along with the extra surface area when you torque them on. I dont think that is necessary however, and they really dont have a lower profile than a conventional hexhead bolt with a washer. I dont know ea82s very well but I would recomend just replace the part and not have to worry about it rather than put it back together knowning it will fail later on.

[idosubaru]

yes i've seen that ring come off before. remove it and all will be fine. you can cut it with wire snips if it's just hanging there, saves you from pulling the belts back off.

[Milemaker13]

yes i've seen that ring come off before. remove it and all will be fine. you can cut it with wire snips if it's just hanging there, saves you from pulling the belts back off.

 

Thanks Grossgary! I figured as much. I'm not sure those other guys got my question exactly. You hit the nail right on the head! I left it off before I put it back on. I will look for a new pully, but for now it should be ok. I'd rather the belt rub a little than have a little steel ring become tangled up down there!!!:cool:

[idosubaru]

yep, they will definitely wreck your timing belt. i actually like having it removed, no worries about it coming off again. no problems here and i won't have any either, it's already been quite a while like that. i could argue it ADDS reliability since it cant happen again. if you were really bent on replacing it, i wouldn't bother until you're in there again for something else.