91 Loyale rear wheel bearing ?

[eagleeye]

I'm getting ready to replace a noisy rear wheel bearing on my 91 4wd. Loyale. I've never replaced a rear bearing before. I have the drum and shoe backing plate off, outer seal removed and the axle pin removed. After that I'm not sure about the next move. It looks like there is a nut of some sort on the backside I need to remove. Is this removed with a punch & hammer? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

[Davalos]

Don't quote me on this (I just got done doing the fronts - haven't done the rears). There are 2 bearings and 2 seals, if I am correct. In the front, I had to pop-out the bearings, there was a spacer in there as well - no ring - nothing. Kinda like the old VWs I used to see ... if the rear is anything like the front, get out the bearing grease & getta-packin'.

 

But like I said, I haven't done my rears yet - did the fronts today (and there are 2 bearings & 2 seals per side up there, too).

[DaveT]

Is this removed with a punch & hammer?

 

The rears on a 4WD are different than the front - they are tapered roller bearings.

 

Here is the tool to unscrew the nut on the inside, that holds the bearings:

 

http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=275

[eagleeye]

Thats what I thought I needed. I'm hoping I can rent one at a local parts store. If I can get my hands on one and take measurements I can make my own. Thanks for the info!

[GeneralDisorder]

Just use a punch. Don't bother looking around for a rental - no one will have it.

 

GD

[Gloyale]

I bought that tool from a company that makes them in north Cali. Found it on ebay by searching for "subaru tools" I think the company was called "zmack" tools. It was $17 dollars plus $6 shipping. They also have really cool "on the car" wheel bearing presses for removing/installing the front bearings. That is like $300 dollaRS:(

 

using a punch works too. Removal is easy this way but tightening properly can be a little tricky but doable.

[eagleeye]

I sprayed the nut down with some penetrating oil yesterday. Looks like rain today, so I'll try tomorrow. I'm assuming they are right hand threads..? Also, do I have to remove the entire axle? I removed the outer pin, but I can't get the axle off of the stub shaft. It'll almost slide back enough.

[Gloyale]

I sprayed the nut down with some penetrating oil yesterday. Looks like rain today, so I'll try tomorrow. I'm assuming they are right hand threads..? Also, do I have to remove the entire axle? I removed the outer pin, but I can't get the axle off of the stub shaft. It'll almost slide back enough.

I've always had to undo the bottom shock bolt and the 3 trailing arm bolts so that the wheel can drop further. Then you can get enough room to take of the axle from diff. it's good to use some white out or paint pen or other method to mark the position of those 3 bolts on the Trailing arm. Their exact positioning is the only way to adjust alingnment of rear wheels. both toe and camber. There is a small section on how to align them in the FSM and some other "haynes" or "Chiltons" guides. But if they are aligned good now just mark em and try to get back to as close as you can when you reassemble.

[eagleeye]

Thanks for the info. I finally got the axle shaft out. It looks like someone has bent the housing over into the cut-outs in the nut. Like you'd do with a spanner nut & washer. What a nightmare! I've removed the whole arm (brake lines too) I'm gonna take it to work tomorrow where I have more tools and where its dry. Is that the way your supposed to lock the nut into the housing?

[Gloyale]

The housing is bent into the gap to stake it in place and keep it from rotating. It is important to restake it after reassembly. just bend it out now and punch it back later. although it probably won't end up in excactly the same spot if you are putting in a new bearing set.