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It's Almost DONE!!! WOOHOO!!!!!


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Well, I've been talking about it for MONTHs, and now I'm actually putting my money where my mouth is (and yeah, it's a LOT of money!).

 

Took my '90 Loyale over to my buddy's garage with a whole trunk-full of parts ...

  • Remove Motor & Trans
  • Re-Seal entire motor
    - Valve covers
    - Crank Seal (both Sides)
    - Oil Pan Gasket
    - Timing Belt Cover gaskets (all 7 of the figgin' things!)
    - O-rings for dipstick and dipstick neck
    - Cam Seals (both sides)
    - Thermostat Gasket
  • New Clutch, throwout bearing
  • New (Subaru) Oil Pump & sending unit, gaskets
  • New Water Pump
  • New Timing Belts & equilizer
  • New Fuel Filter
  • New (not Rebuilt) Axles (both)
  • Ball Joints - both sides
  • Outer Tie Rod ends - both sides
  • Inner & outer Bearings & seals (both sides - front)
  • Rotors
  • New Loaded Callipers
  • Inner & outer Bearings & seals (both sides - rear)
  • Rear Drums & Shoes
  • Wheel Cylinders (both)
  • Cap/Rotor
  • Thermostat
  • Oxygen Sensor
  • All radiator & heater hoses, bypass hose (the elbow thingie), plus new clamps everywhere

 

I think that might be it ...

 

In the process, I power-washed the entire motor, trans, chassis, everything. There is not a spec of grease, grime, or dust anywhere on the motor, trans, chasis, suspension, or anywhere you look. Any part that could be removed and wire-wheeled/painted got the treatment. Hell, I almost sprayed the callipers yellow, hehe! But I resisted.

 

1GreaseBefore.jpg

Before Chasis

2GreaseAfter.jpg

After Chasis

 

Those pics didn't come out as good as I wanted ... but trust me - it's friggin' SHINEY!

 

So far, it's taken about a week, with the 2 of us workin' for like 5-6 hours each night. Starting to wrap things up - looking for leaks & such. So far so good! But MAN that timing was a real Bítch! No WAY we would have figured it out without the help printed here ... so THANKS!! Still not sure if we have it 100% right for the most power.

 

Oh yeah - and I'm replacing the dome light, hehe.

 

Between the slipping clutch, the messed-up timing, the and the stuck left calliper, it's probably going to be lke driving a race car compared to what it was, hee hee!

 

Any suggestions on other stuff I should do while I'm here? Already did alternator, starter, belts, battery, etc. Next is Seafoam & Deisel Trick (but I have to admit, the cams, the oil pan, etc were all WAY more clean that I expected for 165k!)

 

I'm a little scared to add-up how much in parts I've got myself into ...

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wow, looks awsome i wish i had gotten my engine bay that clean when i had my motor out.

 

 

also with all this work surely you changed over to high flow muffler bearings,

i kid , sounds like you have all the bases coverd

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Yeah .. that's the way they came ... mixed emotions about those ... hehe. I got them from the MW Enterprises place - they are pretty nice. They came blue, ok - whatayagonnado? Had to take some of the paint off where the spline went thru the bearings & rotors ... didn't want it to rub off & give me probems. But for $100 bucks a pop on new ones, I think I did pretty well.\

 

1Trannybefore.jpg

Before Tranny

2Trannyafter.jpg

After Tranny

 

Shouldda thought these pics out & gotten the same angles ... it really is amazing what you can do with a few cans of engine cleaner and the willingness to withstand serious back-splash of the power-washer. Damn, there's a lot of nooks & crannies in that tranny!

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i hate to nitpick, but how much were the timing belt cover gaskets? since the covers themselves seem to be optional by consensus, i found the inclusion of those gaskets a little humorous...

 

above and beyond that, though..

 

now THATS what i call a TUNE-UP!!

 

nice job, kinda doing the 100K mile spa treatment.:banana:

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now THATS what i call a TUNE-UP!!

 

That's what *I* Call STOOOPID!!!

 

  • Valve Cover gaskets $28.00
  • Crank Seal (both Sides) $13.00
  • Oil Pan Gasket $13.00
  • Timing Belt Cover gaskets $43.01
  • O-rings dipstick & neck $0.70
  • Cam Seals (both sides) $15.00
  • Thermostat Gasket $1.00
  • Clutch, throwout bearing $110.00
  • Oil Pump $133.56
  • Water Pump $46.98
  • Timing Belts & equilizer $65.00
  • Fuel Filter $12.00
  • New Axles (+ shipping) $240.00
  • Ball Joints - both sides $42.00
  • Outer Tie Rod ends - both sides $44.00
  • Wheel Bearings & seals $115.00
  • Rotors $51.96
  • New Loaded Callipers $144.00
  • Flywheel Machining $45.00
  • Wheel Bearings & seals $131.88
  • Rear Drums & Shoes $29.50
  • Wheel Cylinders (both) $18.00
  • Cap/Rotor, plugs, tune-up parts $56.55
  • Thermostat $8.99
  • Oxygen Sensor $18.99
  • All radiator & heater hoses $35.37
  • TOTAL $1,444.49

That's $1500 in parts for a car I paid $500 for ... hmmm.

 

Lets' see - throw-in another $400 for tires, rear struts, starter, alternator, belts, etc... and then another $500 in speakers, head unit, satelite ... Someone shoot me now! hehe!

 

Heh ... I admit, it's a little over-kill, but I like to know what I have. You should see what I put into my $250 F-150, hehe! But it can sit there for 3 months in 5 degree weather & I can get in & turn that key - POW! Every single time. BaddaBoom.

 

No regrets ... unless I screwed-up the oil pan gasket & it still leaks on my landlady's driveway. THEN I'm gonna be pissed (and executed).

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... That's $1500 in parts for a car I paid $500 for ... hmmm. ...

 

Well, but I like the Idea, `cos when you finish the Job, you`ll have an Almost Brand New Loyale :burnout: Congratulations.

I did put -almost- all my Money in my Loyales too... They worth it :headbang:

I`ll Love to see more pics of it soon! ...

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That's what *I* Call STOOOPID!!!

 

  • Valve Cover gaskets $28.00
  • Crank Seal (both Sides) $13.00
  • Oil Pan Gasket $13.00
  • Timing Belt Cover gaskets $43.01
  • O-rings dipstick & neck $0.70
  • Cam Seals (both sides) $15.00
  • Thermostat Gasket $1.00
  • Clutch, throwout bearing $110.00
  • Oil Pump $133.56
  • Water Pump $46.98
  • Timing Belts & equilizer $65.00
  • Fuel Filter $12.00
  • New Axles (+ shipping) $240.00
  • Ball Joints - both sides $42.00
  • Outer Tie Rod ends - both sides $44.00
  • Wheel Bearings & seals $115.00
  • Rotors $51.96
  • New Loaded Callipers $144.00
  • Flywheel Machining $45.00
  • Wheel Bearings & seals $131.88
  • Rear Drums & Shoes $29.50
  • Wheel Cylinders (both) $18.00
  • Cap/Rotor, plugs, tune-up parts $56.55
  • Thermostat $8.99
  • Oxygen Sensor $18.99
  • All radiator & heater hoses $35.37
  • TOTAL $1,444.49

 

i probably would have shoped more. u could have got that stuff cheaper. i paid $60 for my oil pump and $40 for wheal bearings plus 10 for seals. $145 for new brakes sounds like a lew swchawb deal add another $150+ for install. either way your gonna have a brand new car. looks good. :headbang:

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i probably would have shoped more. u could have got that stuff cheaper. i paid $60 for my oil pump and $40 for wheal bearings plus 10 for seals. $145 for new brakes sounds like a lew swchawb deal add another $150+ for install. either way your gonna have a brand new car. looks good. :headbang:

 

Yep - you're right about that. The Oil pump is OEM. There are some things I didn't want to skimp on, for sure. Axles, brakes, oil pump, calipers for exmaples. So when asked, I opted for new rather than reman. I generally spread the prices around between 3 main suppliers and went with lietime warrranty 1st, and then sorted by price after that. Wow, you got all 8 bearings & seals for $50? That's pretty awesome! Even still, had I gotten everything at 40% less than what I paid, I'd still be lookin' at a grand ... :eek:

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yah, i wouldnt fret about the cost if youve already paid it. Like you said, now you know what you have. Besides, when are you planning on selling this car? not the predictable future, i assume.

 

Plus, now you have been up to your armpits in your subaru. what COULD come up now that you cannot deal with, outside of major engine/trans issues?

 

congrats, now go take a shower. I bet you're greasy :lol:

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congrats, now go take a shower. I bet you're greasy :lol:

 

Yeah - still got grease grimed-into my palms - I think I spent more time cleaning parts than anything else ...

 

Tranny would throw me off, I think. Anything South of the clutch intimidates me. And wiring messes with me, too - I don't know why. I can take a house & wire it from the triplex drops to the outlets in 240v & 120v ... but for some reason, the wiring in cars focks with me ...

 

I did the same thing with my '86 F-150 ... I have like $6k into that. But it's running to this day, and I actually spent the $2k on body parts ... that's where I'm gonna learn welding & bodywork ... a rough finish is what I wanti the truck. Then, if I get good at it, I'll go ahead & do the Loyale.

 

I think if I have one, my only regret is that I started with a 2WD, not a 4WD ...

 

Any good place for Roll-Pins? The dealer says they're obsolete.

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I get roll pins at my local mom and pop chain of auto parts stores.

 

Don't forget, it is a motor you did ALOT of that work to.. and alot of it could be swapped onto another vehicle by changing the suspension components over.. or you could always 4WD your car.. Playing with transmissions and gearboxes is no big deal AT ALL... Actually cracking them OPEN is something different entirely. All those gears.. until I actually tear into one myself and turn the shafts, and see how they work, it all gives me the willies, and until that day, I will remain convinced that "transmission guys" must have strange dreams at night. :lol:

 

Oh, and BTW.. best bet for getting the grain of your palms clean?? hot water, Dawn, and a good old fashioned terrycloth rag. Dont forget to flew your fingers while brushing the backs of them, to get the grease out of the creases that fold up when the finger is extended.

 

LOL, I just said, "when the finger is extended"

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Believe it, or not.... But ATF is a pretty good pre-wash hand cleaner. Gets all the really nasty stuff off fairly well, then use whatever else you like to finish the job. Me, I do the ATF, then Fast Orange, finish with some Dawn dish soap.

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That's $1500 in parts for a car I paid $500

 

Assuming it's a no rust body, that's a $2000.00 car that should be reliable for a long while. I'd drop a grand on parts for my "new" 87 if I need to, since it should be around for 10 years. If anything takes it out early, they go into the next one.

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what i did with my oil pan gasket was cover it with rtv to make it a rubber gasket with cork inside. and make sure the cork is fine not thick chunks. GD had some trouble with a thick cut cork ea82 oil pan gasket that eventually just ripped in half. dealership all the way

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what i did with my oil pan gasket was cover it with rtv to make it a rubber gasket with cork inside. and make sure the cork is fine not thick chunks. GD had some trouble with a thick cut cork ea82 oil pan gasket that eventually just ripped in half. dealership all the way

 

Yeah - I was a little scared when I got the old gasket off ... it was a real bítch - and I was a little rough and violent by the time I got it all off, plus wire-wheeling, etc. I took a straight-edge to it when I was done, and went :eek: !!!! So I tapped it back to as flat as I could (which was kinda hard considering the whacky contours of the pan itself...), and did an OEM Subaru gasket (which really REALLY didn't look like it was meant perfectly to fit - why don't they use a rubber one?) ... so yeah - I made the executive decision to go with some sealant as well. then I was really REEEEEEELY careful in the tightening ... So now my fingers are crossed - doesn't look like you can even GET to 25% of those bolts without lifting that motor if I have to correct a leak .... ugh! My landlady is chomping at the bit right now ... hehe.

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Hey ... now that I think about it ...

 

Does anyone know where a good place to get the lock washers for the rear drums (they fit between the axle nuts and the washer ... my local dealer's computer says the part is "Obsolete" and "no longer available"

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Glad to know I'm not the only one who's been hosed on wheel bearing prices.

 

The gently coned washer that says out on one side? grab a couple off a car in the jy. How did you lose them?

 

Didn't lose them ... they just don't really seem to be holding like I'd like to see ... and I'm the kinda guy who likes to 'replace when in-doubt at all' - But then again, that's why I decided to WAY over-do it on the bearings ... here are the prices I paid for the bearings:

  • Front Inner Bearing - $13 ea.
  • Front Outer Bearing - $13 ea.
  • Front Inner Seal - $8 ea.
  • Front Outer Seal - $5 ea.
  • Rear Inner Bearing - $10 ea.
  • Rear Outer Bearing - $17 ea.
  • Rear Seal - $8 ea.

So that's $74 per side - $156.88 with tax.

 

Someone kill me ...

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  • 4 months later...

Well ... My landlady came to my door yesterday morning. I opened the door, and she started beating me with her sneaker. Before I could respond, she started screaming "Damit, Davalos, I told you to keep that damned car from leaking on my driveway!"

 

CopyofDSC00020-1.jpg

 

Looks to me like it's leaking from the heads. I circled the areas where it seems to be coming from in red .... I did a major re-seal, and figured I had it licked.

 

Any ideas? Should I just live with it? Can I buy body-armor on Ebay?

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Mine also leaks a couple of drops a day on my driveway. i figure it's a whole lot easier to use degreaser and the powerwasher to clean the driveway once a month than to track down the leak on the car. As it seems, these engines are gonna leak anyhow. If you want, we could really freak her out and park my loyale behind yours and have two old oil leaking subaru's on her driveway!:)

 

-Doug

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