206danebmx Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 I am new to these forums but have always dreamed of owning my buddies turbo wagon with the ea82T. And now that the T-belt failed due to some oil leakage I have the chance to get it for ~$50. I am pretty sure I'm going for it. I'm just wondering if you guys could point out any special tools and advice I may need for this job. I plan on replacing the belts, and then possibly replacing the seal, but I don't know which one it is as I havn't seen the car yet and it is 100 miles from me. I'm guessing that it was probably the crank seal or the cam seal, does this sound right? Is there a common seal that goes around the timing belt? I am going to try and accomplish this fix in a day... or two if necessary. Is this feasible? I have never worked on subarus but I worked on a lot vw's and am moderatley skilled engine/mechanically wise. Any help is appreciated... Thanks Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 ye gods, sorry. double post. oops! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 you can go up to the top right corner of the screen and click on the USRM. In the engine section, there is an article on replacing the timing belt by milesfox. Excellent article, read it through four or five times, then print it out and have it on hand. If you follow the directions it will be a piece of cake. There are the standard cam and crank oil seals, as well as o-rings on the cams, behind the sprockets that should be replaced, IIRC. The article is rather thorough. The process of lining up the camshafts and slipping the belts on at the same time causes people problems sometimes, but miles spelled it out very well. I would say jump on it, a simple reseal and waterpump should make you good.. headgaskets are about the only other common failure point on these cars, and thats usually due to overheating.. a turbo is naturally more sensitive to this issue than a non, but I only mention it because since you ought to replace the water pump as well, you might want to think about doing headgaskets and oilpump seals, too.. those are virtually all the minimal weak points of this car, and doing them all at once does, in the end, condense an extraordinary amount of work down to a single, 2 or 3 day project. the reliability factor is increased as well. Thats my subaru primer. The timing belts are easy, thats how i got mine for free (well that and the rust.. ) the rest is simple, and it all makes you wish you had done it all at once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 timing belts and cam seals should take about an hour to do. heres a little hint: leave the timing belt covers off after you put the belts on. you dont need them, and the next time one breaks, it takes about 20 minutes to do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 if the timing belt failed due to oil you definitely need to do the seals or you will be facing the same issue again in a short time - been there, done that. do yourself a favor and do it right the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 Do the timing belts. Leave the covers off. No special tools required. Just some sockets and wrenches. Also, while in there, replace: Camshaft seals Front main seal Oil pump seals Water pump (Really only if you put the covers back on. Much easier with them off) That will keep oil off of your belts for a long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 very easy job...time escalates quickly if you have rusty bolts, sheared bolts or mess with the timing covers. rip the timing covers off and don't reuse them and your job gets lots easier. if you insist on retaining the timing belt covers, take some zip ties along so you don't have to reuse the stupid bolt/insert combo's in the covers. get skinny ones that can pass through an 8mm hole. if you're planning on doing the timing belts just to get home, you could install new belts and take a case of oil along. it's an easy job but start getting into a first time oil pump, water pump, cam seal, crank seal job and it's going to take you awhile most likely. if oil leakage is significant you'll want to address the leak right away, it will be the oil pump seal, crank seal or cam seals. you'll want to replace the crank seal, two cam seals (and o-ring, buy the cam seal kit, not just the cam seal), water pump, oil pump seal, oil pump gasket and oil pump o-ring. all of this stuff resides behind the timing belts and is fairly easy to do. also - a more common cause of timing belt failure than oil is a bad timing pulley bearing. check them all while you're in there and see if any are noisey or seized, i almost garauntee that none will be tight or feel anywhere close to new. this heats the belt and causes breakage very often as well. you can at least figure it out while yo'ure in there and source new pulleys or bearings or repack them at a later time. i just picked up a timing belt kit that came with 3 brand new pulleys (two tensioners and one sprocketed idler) for only $60. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
206danebmx Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 Thanks for all of the help. I used to post a lot in some volkswagen forums and anyobody new to the forums that would post always got no attention. So its nice to see that you guys are receptive, thanks. So, yeah I'm going for it and I think for the time being I am only going to replace the timing belt cause I only have a weekend to do it. I will go ahead and buy the seals that are needed and do them also if I have the time. The car also overheated a little before so I will probably go through the h20 pump soon. One last thing whats a good place to get these parts, I know with vw's it took me some years to figure out where all the quick/cheap places were to get parts. I'm guessing the dealer wants mucho dinero? Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beataru Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 About the covers. Their there for a reason, to keep dust and rocks and chunks of mud from getting all over you tbelt, but I would definately leave them off until you are sure shes running at peak perfomance, IE: timed correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 About the covers. Their there for a reason, to keep dust and rocks and chunks of mud from getting all over you tbelt, but I would definately leave them off until you are sure shes running at peak perfomance, IE: timed correctly. I was waiting for someone to mention leaving the covers on for this. Instead of restarting the debate, here it is in thread form: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54151 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beataru Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 and fingers too......... OUCH.... yes it will hurt if you touch your finger to the belt when the engine is on... and belts dont stop for fingers CRUNCH!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 EA82 timing belt sets go on ebay for $50-$60 sometimes, i just picked up a set last week. includes two timing belts, both tensioner pulleys and the sprocketed idler pulley. the same sets go for $150+ elsewhere...or $200+ at the parts stores. http://www.thepartsbin.com has good prices sometimes and their listings are always correct for what i search for. http://www.rockauto.com has the cheapest prices but be very careful on the parts, they'll list incorrect parts for the vehicle you select, really annoying. dealer parts for an EA82T is a very bad idea. there are two style of water pumps, easiest way if you're not sure is to remove yours and take it in to match or buy both and return the one you don't need locally. do a search, there are threads detailing the differences. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 Its easy to tell what water pump you have. If it has no A/C, is an XT, or usually if it has an inboard A/C pump, its the short hub (105mm). All others are the long hub (110mm). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 water pump: not sure which is which, but the way to look at yours in your car, then walk into the store and look at theirs and say "i need this one, not that one" is to see how the fan and pulley attach to the nose of the pump. One pump uses bolts and nuts, so the pump nose has holes on it.. the other pump uses studs on the nose of the pump. I will say that this is "hearsay" and I haven't actually compared the two myself, but ive read it here many times. anyone who can confirm my statement with firsthand knowledge would be welcome... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beataru Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 oh yeah make sure you get the right pump!! I.........didnt...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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