Milemaker13 Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 Hey Gang, The loyale is getting some of the typical rust. I wouls like to stop or slow it down alot. The car only has 120k, still new! I heard someone mention something about a hot oil treatment. Sounds good, hot oil gets into all of the tiny spaces, prevents rust. Will this weaken already rusted metal? Has anybody ever heard of this before? I tried to search, but didn;t find what I was reading before. You guys don't like when I pull up old threads any way! So, any other good methods? Sand, repair , paint is OK for panels, but what about crossmembers, frame rails, unibody areas, shock mounts, ect? Hard to sand and paint. So let the hot oil soak in? What about spraying w/ WD-40? Some reason I fear rusted metal seperating or something. What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 My 86 wagon leaks oil and it sprayed all the way to the rear diff. I have gone through three pennsylvania winters and still no rust, So oil does prevent rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backwoodsboy Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 I use hot oil on all my vehicles, personally. I know of no "professional" places to get it done.....so I heat my own, and spray it in myself. It DOES prevent rust....VERY well. It IS messy:brow: ....and it will de-stabilize existing rusty areas. -IF they are rusted straight through. Oh BTW ....used motor oil works WAY better than new. ....and way better than WD40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgd73 Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 find the right paint! enough rain can clean the oil off. Oil gathers stuff, earth has many mysteries to stick to your car.. I don't even use undercoating that stays soft and sticky, for that very reason. For wheel wells or undercoated places, I found some stuff "evercoat undercoat" straight from a can, it even gives a grinder a hard time when cured (that is no doubt what I want) kinda like a plastic rubber. wheel wells pressure it right into itself, and as some of us repairing rust know, the wheel wells in the back can certianly use tougher layers than the oem steel. Also oil holds heat like grease in a frying pan.. a few degrees warmer can make a several hundred pound stress seem like a flexible impossible weakness. Keep it clean and painted, oil can create a chemical mystery by the road- and even feed a very hot fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyonlyon Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 Hey Gang,The loyale is getting some of the typical rust. I wouls like to stop or slow it down alot. The car only has 120k, still new! I heard someone mention something about a hot oil treatment. Sounds good, hot oil gets into all of the tiny spaces, prevents rust. Will this weaken already rusted metal? Has anybody ever heard of this before? I tried to search, but didn;t find what I was reading before. You guys don't like when I pull up old threads any way! So, any other good methods? Sand, repair , paint is OK for panels, but what about crossmembers, frame rails, unibody areas, shock mounts, ect? Hard to sand and paint. So let the hot oil soak in? What about spraying w/ WD-40? Some reason I fear rusted metal seperating or something. What do you think?[/QUOT LPS NO3 is the schnitz..dries to a waxy-oily feel you can treat unpainted sttel with it and no rust long time later..Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemaker13 Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 I use hot oil on all my vehicles, personally. I know of no "professional" places to get it done.....so I heat my own, and spray it in myself. It DOES prevent rust....VERY well. It IS messy:brow: ....and it will de-stabilize existing rusty areas. -IF they are rusted straight through. Oh BTW ....used motor oil works WAY better than new. ....and way better than WD40 What do you do on the spots where it is rusted thru? Why used oil? Got a ton of that here. How hot do you get the oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backwoodsboy Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 What do you do on the spots where it is rusted thru? Why used oil? Got a ton of that here. How hot do you get the oil? Dont get me wrong..... there is no replacement for grinding ALL the rust off, rust proofing (POR-15 is great stuff) and/or repainting. However, if you are like me....and drive a soob that you bought for a few hundred bucks, and that has significant rust.... you probably just want something fast and easy to slow the rust down, and without spending lots of $$$....or large amounts of your time:grin: I put the oil in a big squirt bottle, and heat the bottle in some boiling water (just until it gets hot enough to flow freely) Then you shoot it into all the rust-prone areas you can find. On areas already rusted through.....your best bet is to grind back to good metal, and fix it right if you can. PS - used oil seems to "soak into" metal better than new oil, and sticks on longer. (my grandfather has painted parts with used oil for 50 years) -just my redneck 2 cents:grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turblowxt Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 what about automotive greese? I was thinking of using it but i ended up fixing it the right way(weld in patches). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backwoodsboy Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 Most grease I've found wont soak in as well. It also has a tendency to dry out and flake off (in my experience) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 bgd has a good point, with the oil trapping junk.. oil holds no water, but it will hold plant matter.. and plant matter holds water. However, on a $200 car.. yah, sounds like a not-TOO-bad idea. interesting to hear good results from it.. anyone else try it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyT Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 Ive used Krown, Heard nothing but good things about it. I use it on my 94 Turbo sedan and shes mint. Its not hot when they apply it, but its very viscous so it creeps into spot weld joints and seams very well. I usually pull the door sills, trunk panelling and some grommets then ask the guys if they could spray in those areas as well. That and Counteract Electronic rust protection apparently works very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 You look at the underside of Bucky ( my 92 Loyale wagon) and basically till you get to the rear wheel well the car is 98% rust free..cause...bad seal blowing oil all over..I refuse to ever clean it off cause it has been proven to work...this car has spent many PA winter,Delaware winters,and CT winters and the only rust that has been a problem has been where the oil has never sprayed.Oh and this is a 201K mile car that has been wrecked in the front and was used as a fleet vehicle and "the loaner" car for 2 different dealers...so you know it was never pampered..till I got him 4 years ago:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petersubaru Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 rust prevention does save your vehicle..my 86 wagon driven every year thru salty winters still almost looks new on the inside sheet metal panels..I have drilled a few larger holes in various places, for ex: the bottom of the sills and a hole on the upper part of the door to get to the inside door handles and rear wagon hatch door...I personally do not like to cover up the metal , for example with grease, so that, if rust does start somewhere I can see it...after each winter I spray water everywhere, inside the door panels /sills ..removing the cardboard panels in the rear and shooting water up inside the rear fenders with a garden hose ( I have drilled some extra "1/16 drain holes") ... spray water in behind the front frame just behind the bumper ..up underneath..anywhere water will go..with a power wash it will remove any weak undercoating to expose the rust..let it dry out for a few days..then useing a garden pressure tank with kerosine and a little chain saw oil I spray inside the panels and underneath especially the very difficult areas where the frame bolts onto the body (you need to get into those boxed--in spots to clean and prevent) ... for the areas that one visibly sees like around the motor/hood & door seams and window moldings, I use wd40 ...Before winter I spray the whole car down with the same mixture(once) ... even the "outside" especially around the moldings and rear wheel wells a couple of times in the winter ...and yes, it does look messy..no real problem cleaning up in the Spring time useing homedepots "zep" degeaser...before even attempting to do this or any method you choose, power wash under the car with a degeaser to expose any rust and after the water dries, either spray or brush(better) permatex item #81775..2 coats..it will last for years ( at least with this product you can see if rust developes again) ..check for cracked undercoating in the rear wheel well and remove with a scraper any loose stuff and cover up the rust with the permatex product especially around the outside fender lip..also, I never "car wash" the car in the winter..the extra moisture only promotes rust delvelopment...good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 Dunno if anyone has said it yet... But I use fish oil. Smells funny, but it's suppose to be some of the best stuff against rust... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 Dunno if anyone has said it yet... But I use fish oil. Smells funny, but it's suppose to be some of the best stuff against rust... Didnt you know that WD 40 is mostly fish oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 No wonder it smells so good. The oil won't trap water but it will trap corrosive chemicals, and it's bad to leave the stuff everywhere you go. You could POR15-treat the entire underside of a rust-free car over a weekend, even removing the suspension if you wanted, with a friend's help. Then double team your friend's car the next weekend. Brian/monstaru and I are probably going to do that this summer to my wagon and coupe, and to his Brat and Willys (if the Willys is ready for that yet). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 Hmmm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 rust. I wouls like to stop or slow it down alot. WD40 is too thin, evaporates. I have used this stuff: http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/ Good on the inside of doors & panels & rockers & fenders. Metal does not have to be clean for it to stop the rust. I have used it on my hitches, years later, when moving the hitch to the next car, no problems with rusted bolts. CT salted roads in winter. I just applied POR15 to some rear end parts. Much more involved process. I'm thinking POR 15 the outside, Waxoyl the inside. One of my cars years ago had the oil leak going on, that side of the car was rust free, but messy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casioqv Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 I'll second (or third) the POR-15. It will absolutely stop all rust forever if applied properly. I have tried many different paints, coatings, etc. and none seem to come close to POR-15. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 Hammerite! Best paint ever, just slap it on and forget about rust. If i could afford to hammerite my entire car in black or metallic blue i would. :-p But as its rather expensive stuff i just use it for my tow hooks on all my cars and have never had it flake off even after painting on over rust. If i had steel wheels i would probably try doing them in it too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casioqv Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 Hammerite! Best paint ever, just slap it on and forget about rust. I properly applied hammerite to the trunk bed of my old 1980 Volvo 242, and after one year the rust had returned. I removed all of the hammerite and replaced it with POR-15, and despite being constantly damp there was zero rust after 5 years. Perhaps the hammerite I had was somehow defective, or contaminated but that is the experience I had. Rust appears to spread under hammerite and flake it off while it does not with POR-15. Tyler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeep5.9litre Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 On my 82 wagon which has virtually 2 surface rust spots..i sanded them down, applied some rustbullet, then coated the inner wheel wells and rocker panels with spray on truck bed coating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 I properly applied hammerite to the trunk bed of my old 1980 Volvo 242 Theres your problem...it err doesnt work with swedish steel... Ok so forgetting the fancy rustproofing stuff - i had a look under my car today and you really cant beat a good old fashioned oil leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 hrmm, there was another thread that came up and someone mentioned Wurth paints.. they make a number of excellent anti-rust products. clicky for a page that came up with a quick search for a lineup of some of their products. Fantastic stuff, my uncle uses it for rebuilding and repainting antique boat trailers. Yes. Antique trailers. with salt water use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 If you can find it, use what the Military used all thru WW2. Its called cosmaline. I've seen stuff from the 40's opened up and still looked brand new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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