Engine Out! - What do I replace while I'm at it?

[derekd]

I'm pulling my engine and replacing my clutch components, timing belt and front and rear seals on a '96 Outback with a 2.2 with 140k. What else do I replace while I have the engine out? - the tensioner and the tensioner pulleys? (expensive, but cheaper than doing it later) The head gaskets seem fine... What am I missing?

[porcupine73]

Sounds like a good list so far. Replace geared idler near water pump (other idlers may be OK). Consider replacing water pump? Replace oil pump o-ring and check for rear case cover screws backing out. Replace cam retainer cap o-rings. By seals I assume you mean at least front cam seals and front crank seal (on oil pump).

[fnlyfnd]

oil seperator plate in back...valve cover gaskets....and prev. mentioned items

[nipper]

Sounds like a good list so far. Replace geared idler near water pump (other idlers may be OK). Consider replacing water pump? Replace oil pump o-ring and check for rear case cover screws backing out. Replace cam retainer cap o-rings. By seals I assume you mean at least front cam seals and front crank seal (on oil pump).

 

 

What he said. ALso may want to put in new spark plugs while the engine is out.

 

nipper

[derekd]

Thanks for the advice! I'll put those items on the list of things to pick up or order. For clarification, what should I do with the oil separator plate in back? Check for leaks or remove, inspect and re-rtv? As for the rear case cover screws, that's the rear case on the oil pump, yes? And I wasn't real clear about the tensioner cigar-like device, should I replace it? As for the other idlers, I'll see if they spin smoothly, but from what I read, I should just replace the geared idler. I have new valve cover gaskets and I'll throw new plugs in as well. Thanks alot,

 

Derekd

 

I'm in New Mexico, working in the snow and dreaming of a garage!

[porcupine73]

Your oil separator plate is plastic (unless someone already replaced it previously). You want the updated metal version. It has another name in the service manual, seal retainer or something like that. How about new plug wires too?

 

Yes, the rear case cover refers to the oil pump. Some of the oil pumps had a tendancy for the rear case cover screws to loosen/back out thus resulting in oil leaking past the front crank seal.

[99obw]

I'm getting ready to do this same project to my friend's '97 so I have the spreadsheet handy.

 

Oil separator plate part number 11831AA150.

 

Don't forget the exhaust gaskets and probably studs and nuts as well.

 

Pinion bearing should be added to your list of clutch related parts if you haven't already, some kits come with it, others don't. I opted for an Exedy kit which includes it.

[TedZ]

I think the shift lever connection-to-the-tranny u-joint if it has the slightest amout of slop. They go fast and are a pain to replace engine in.

 

Ted

[idosubaru]

if you're tempted to replacde the rear main seal, make sure you get it right. for some reason there have been multiple accounts of new rear main seals blowing out shortly after installation. and since the engine has to come out, it's one thing you do'nt want to jack up. that being said...for some reason the rear main seal on subaru's rarely fails. it's the one seal that if you weren't going to replace it, i wouldn't make a big deal about it.

[JPX]

And here is a checklist for pulling the engine to help keep things organized. It is a very straightforward job, but I didn't want to take any chances forgetting something.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59033

[derekd]

Thanks for all the tips, everybody!

I gotta say, I'm now quite respectful of the whole rear seal issue. I have 140k on the motor which I've had since 120k and the rear seal has a bit of a "goatee" on the bottom where the oilyish clutch disc dust has collected. It's not a full on oil drip, but it's not innocent and clean looking either. I'll go ahead and replace it, with proper respect and trepidation. As for the oil separator plate, do I just clean it up and reseal it? And the parts list to replace from all the posts, great suggestions, the only one I'll pass on, however, is the shifter u-joint. No slop as far as I can tell - but just watch, it may be the next to go... It snowed a couple of inches last night, so my work area is only messed up a little!

[msmithmmx]

Here is what I did when I had the engine out

 

1) Harmonic balancer (50 ebay)

2) AC and Alternator belts (20 pepboys)

3) Rear cam seal (5 dollars)

4) Oil Separator Plate (sure to be leaking, original is plastic) (15 dollars)

5) Rear main seal. (20 dollars)

6) Spark Plugs (10 dollars)

7) PCV Valve ( 8 dollars)

8) Valve cover gaskets (2 of these) and grommets for the bolts (30 dollars)

9) Reseal the oil-pan and replace both gaskets that are internal. (RTV temp sealer 4 bucks, gaskets are 10 bucks)

10) new o-rings for the AC hoses you disconnect

11) new o-rings for the power steering lines you disconnect

[99obw]

DON'T DISCONNECT THE AC!!!!!!!

 

Just unbolt the compressor and bungee it to the left strut tower. The power steering can be unbolted and bungeed to the right strut tower. The lines for both can be left connected.

 

The oil separator plate is cheap, just replace it. They don't always leak, I've found them not leaking before, but they usually leak, and it's easy and cheap to fix permanently. Clean both surfaces with acetone and carefully apply RTV.

[1-3-2-4]

helpful thread.. I was going to pull my engine this weekend but it's going to snow..

 

is the Oil separator plate part number 11831AA150 still the same?

 

I already did my timing belt and all the idlers and water pump.. but guess what.. I got to pull it all off because the timing belt cover was so brittle on my 95 Legacy that half the bolts snapped off.. and I hope that the replacements have those screws..