the sucker king Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 and does anyone have the part number? should you replace this whenever you do the clutch, or only if it's making noise? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reveeen Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 Well................ There are tools you can buy, but if you load the area behind the bearing with grease then take a piece of wood dowling that either fits, or you have shaved down to fit in the center (not tight, but closely), then you tap the wood in, and hydraulic pressure pushes the bearing out. Should you replace it? It might not make noise at the moment, but it may start making noise in the near/far future, do you really want to go through this again if it decides to make noise? For the less than $10 that they cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenaissanceMan Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 always replace the pilot. I had a tranny go kaput cause when the brand new clutch was put in years and years ago (and had sat pretty much since then) they didnt replace the pilot bearing. Unfortunately sometimes those things can be buggers. what you need is a small dremel bit, dremel or die grinder, and a cutting chisel if it becomes a problem. (by cutting chisel I mean one with the tip looking like a slanted diamond) Almost every time I have had to do this because the little needle bearing thing self destructs and you are left with a hardened race. pick a spot and start grinding into the race of the bearing till it gets thin, then repeat on opposite side. Start hammering the crap out of it (catching an edge on the bearing) with the cutting chisel. repeat grinding and hammering till something on that race finally collapses and you can pull it out. Get the best synthetic grease you can for the new bearing, and find a small socket the right size to tap it in the crank. (suprisingly the new one taps in really easily compared) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUBARU3 Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 I agree with the dremel tool thing. I have NEVER been able to get one out otherwise. Don't forget the seal that goes in behind the bearing. That keeps the grease in. PILOT BEARING 1979 cars including 1980 BRAT BORG-WARNER # N54 $14.54 / SUBARU PART # 806412040 PILOT BEARING SEAL 16.3mm OUTER 14mm INNER SUBARU PART# 806712020 #806712080 16.0mm Todd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 Tap/pound the old one out with a socket. A 17-19MM impact socket is about right IIRC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenaissanceMan Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 I think we are confusing new and old style ea71's (shawnW) The old style (gen 1 ea71) is a big pain in the arse cause its in the crank. The later "fatcase" style and ea81 etc.. had the larger bearing in the flywheel with comes out easily with the socket/hammer technique -Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecky Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 Do you even need a pilot bearing, I've left them out a few times, and have had no troubbles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenaissanceMan Posted January 11, 2007 Share Posted January 11, 2007 for a temporary short term situation, no you dont need one. However over the long term, absolutely yes you do. The pilot bearing is actually the front support bearing for the input shaft. My former drivetrain instructor described the pilot as actually part of the transmission itself. Basically without it the input shaft puts all the stress on the bearing inside the case. Over time this stress will lead to premature failure of that bearing and then your wonderful transmission has pieces of hardened metal meshing itself between the gears breaking things.:-\ -Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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