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Im going out tomorrow to look at this car:

 

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=203668046&dealer_id=909739&car_year=1998&model=&num_records=100&make2=&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&engine=&keywordsrep=&certified=&body_code=0&fuel=&search_type=both&distance=50&make=SUB&color=&min_price=&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&max_mileage=&style_flag=1&sort_type=yearASC&address=92346&advanced=&end_year=2007&doors=&transmission=&max_price=&cardist=25

 

I've had about 8 suburaru's over the years, but the newest one was an '86 GL-10 (still have it, hehe). I really don't have a whole lot of experience with the newer vehicles, so I'm looking for a little advice here. What problems should I look for in a '98 Outback with 200,000 + miles on it?

 

TIA!

 

Bish

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Torque bind, are those the stock head gaskets, mismatching tires, AT fluid color/smell, oil color, what's in the reservoir tank (is it clean and green?), Do all the accessories work correctly (unless advertised otherwise), cold A/C, working vents/defrost, working rear defrost, working power seats, timing belt ever been replaced and when

 

That's an awful lot of money for a car with over 200k miles. I think it should be worth closer to 2500-3000 for that many miles (maybe even less depending on the condition of the body)

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at 200,000 miles you better hope the head gaskets have been replaced if a $1,500 repair would annoy you after purchase. that car has the 2.5 liter engine with headgasket issues, there's no need to cover it here, just type in "headgasket" using the search button on this forum and you'll see it all.

 

i've seen a couple outback wagons with 200,000 miles for $1,000 very recently, so seems over priced but it's certainly dependant on your area and need.

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take a refridgerator magnet to test for Bondo. Look for overspray. Have someone follwo you on test drive to see if the car tracks straight or 'crabs' down the road.

 

what they said up there.

 

You might could disable spark, listen to the engine turn over while cranking, if it's, ruh,ruh,ruh,ruh,ruh,ruh - even compression, ruh,ruh,REEER,ruh,ruh,ruh - maybe low comp. in that cylinder.

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Thanks for all the reply's. All good stuff to look for. Fluids are a no brainer, the head gasket issue and water pump are good too. Out here in CA the cars dont usually have problems with the rust many people experience in the East, so that makes body work a little less likely problem.

 

I agree that the price is to high, but for a running / driving car that can pass smog and has electronics that work you're looking at around 2500 - 3000 range out here, even if it has high miles.

 

I didn't make it out to test drive it today (got a sick baby at home :mad:) but I should be able to go look tomorrow.

 

I'll keep you posted.

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