PeterD Posted January 11, 2007 Share Posted January 11, 2007 Ok the other day I found a set of KYB GR2 stuts on a junk yard car. I bought the springs and struts and just swapped them over to my wagon. I complaind about the uber stiff ride and thought it was the shocks. As I was removing them from the car I compared the gr2 struts with the stock kyb struts with springs and strut mounts installed the setup I had from the junk yard was about a half inch shorter or even a little more. The springs look just like mine, there black and tapered. Is there a chance i have some sort of stiffer spring since the shocks should all be the same. were the turbo wagon springs siffer and lower than the stock springs? i wanted to remove the springs but the front strut i cant get the big fat nut off. the allen key ( to hold the strut shaft from spinning ) is all stripped out on the right side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted January 11, 2007 Share Posted January 11, 2007 There were different springs & struts throughout the first gen legacies. The KYB GR2's do tend to have a 20% stiffer ride then stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterD Posted January 11, 2007 Author Share Posted January 11, 2007 There were different springs & struts throughout the first gen legacies. The KYB GR2's do tend to have a 20% stiffer ride then stock. yeah the siffness is very noticable on these cars.. on my vw the GR2s felt soft and the Bilstines were quite allright. did the turbo cars have the tapered rear springs like the early first gen legacys. i was just wondering why the springs i got from the pull nsave were shorter.. or seemed to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 12, 2007 Share Posted January 12, 2007 the allen key ( to hold the strut shaft from spinning ) is all stripped out on the right side.I had this problem before. I wrapped cardboard around the very top of the shaft and squeezed on vise grips as hard as I could. Then used socket (or impact wrench would be nice) to remove nut. The very top of the strut won't ever pass through the seals anyway so I figured even if I gouged it up no biggie. If penetrating oil is needed I know of nothing better than kanolabs kroil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterD Posted January 12, 2007 Author Share Posted January 12, 2007 I had this problem before. I wrapped cardboard around the very top of the shaft and squeezed on vise grips as hard as I could. Then used socket (or impact wrench would be nice) to remove nut. The very top of the strut won't ever pass through the seals anyway so I figured even if I gouged it up no biggie. If penetrating oil is needed I know of nothing better than kanolabs kroil. thats some good stuff but i prefer PB Blaster;) I got the nut off. since i had them on the car i took a breaker bar and managed to get them loose. the locking nut must have worked real well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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