Yukira Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 We have a 99 Forester that stopped running last night. A friend was driving and he said it lost power and then the engine quit and would not restart. We got it home today and tested the battery which seems good and tried to jump start it. But basically the car acts like it needs a battery as it won't turn over it just clicks. Apparently the CEL came on before it died as well. Can anyone point us in a direction to try to fix this. I'm sorry I don't have much more information than this. TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 First: Check all the electrical connections between the battery, alternator and starter. If they're dirty, clean them. If they're loose, tighten them. Second: Have the alternator load tested to see if it's putting out enough juice. If it isn't, that's the culprit. Third: If those things are all all right as well, I suspect that the starter is worn out (albeit that's pretty sudden). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yukira Posted January 14, 2007 Author Share Posted January 14, 2007 Thanks. We will try all of the above and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 Apparently the CEL came on before it died as well.Get/borrow a code reader and find out what the code is. You can read it without being able to start the engine. Maybe if it's not any of those things the starter contacts need replacing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted January 14, 2007 Share Posted January 14, 2007 Get/borrow a code reader and find out what the code is. You can read it without being able to start the engine. I missed that. Porcupine has a good point. Get the code read as it may provide further light into this problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 We have a 99 Forester that stopped running last night. A friend was driving and he said it lost power and then the engine quit and would not restart. We got it home today and tested the battery which seems good and tried to jump start it. But basically the car acts like it needs a battery as it won't turn over it just clicks. Apparently the CEL came on before it died as well. Can anyone point us in a direction to try to fix this. I'm sorry I don't have much more information than this. TIA it doesn't matter but is it a manual? you try push starting it(if its a manual)? Worth a shot, battery might show 12v + but doesn't mean the correct amps are being produced. Oh and when u attached the jumper cabled, did u leave them for a while before starting it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 I am 99% sure the code will be useless. If they read the code as it happened without turning the car off it would have been readable. If they have trid to start it since then, the code will be cleared. This kind of failure with a no crank is odd, but you can;t tell how the batery is without a load tester. The battery can build itself back up to 14 volts overnight, but wont have any amperage to do any work. Sudden failure like this points to the altenator. I dont think its a starter issue. First thing to do is throw another battery in the car and see if it starts (don't buy one). If iot starts check the output of the alt. It can be your battery is internally shorted (7 years old its about due). nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yukira Posted January 15, 2007 Author Share Posted January 15, 2007 Thanks for all your comments. Would have posted sooner but couldn't get back on yesterday. Unfortunately, do to a combination of stupidity and bad luck it turns out the motor has seized. We lost the oil plug, oil drained out, engine died. We are giving our friend who was driving at the time the benefit of the doubt that there were no indications that hey maybe I should stop driving now before it actually died. So now we are pricing a rebuild, versus a used versus a new, etc. Anyone have any experience and/or recommendations on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 Wow. Didn't the driver like notice the oil light come on or anything like that? Eeeks. I'd go with a used replacement as opposed to a rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 well that would explain things. Not to pick on anyone, but you would be amazed at how many people don't monitor the dashboard. There was one thread here not too long ago where the poster was amazed that i expected him to monitor his dashboard every so often ( i was taught just to scan it every minute or so). I mean thats why the thing is there. And this was a discussion about the engine temp gauge. Personally i wish they had a buzzer on the oil pressure and engine temps to makwe the idiot lights more er um ... (insert word here) proof. Rebuids talk to CCR, my rebuild for the thrown rod was a dealer rebuild. I dont think there is anything rebuildable on yours. Oil starvation does a lot of damage to both the bottom end and top end of the engine. Lookk for a used engine. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon38iowa Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 Thanks for all your comments. Would have posted sooner but couldn't get back on yesterday. Unfortunately, do to a combination of stupidity and bad luck it turns out the motor has seized. We lost the oil plug, oil drained out, engine died. We are giving our friend who was driving at the time the benefit of the doubt that there were no indications that hey maybe I should stop driving now before it actually died. So now we are pricing a rebuild, versus a used versus a new, etc. Anyone have any experience and/or recommendations on this. Sounds strange- No lights came on, and usually if a car runs low on oil one will here the engine making odd noises. I made the mistake of having my'99 rebuilt; It had to be removed and rebuilt again to the tune of four weeks in the shop! If had it to do over again, I would go with the replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 Actually in all fairness, loosing oil at speed because of a lost oil plug, there really isnt much you can do beside kiss your wallet goodbye. The light may have come on, but seizure happens fairly quickly. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon38iowa Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 Actually in all fairness, loosing oil at speed because of a lost oil plug, there really isnt much you can do beside kiss your wallet goodbye. The light may have come on, but seizure happens fairly quickly. nipper I think that why they call them (''") lights, because the damage might already be done. I will be installing a full gauge package in the clam shell on my center dash. And I do check my dash every few minutes, I learned this on my first few cars lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yukira Posted January 15, 2007 Author Share Posted January 15, 2007 I have contacted CCR and asked for some price estimates. I am reading that you guys think it is better to replace than rebuild, especially given the type of damage we likely have. When I am looking to purchase a replacement motor should I stay away from a replacement motor that has been rebuilt or are used motors typically rebuilds. This is all new for me and I am not sure how it works. I guess the lesson learned here is for my husband not to be so free with loaning out the car. At least if we blew it up we'd have only ourselves to blame and not the added frustration of what ifs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 rebuilt new or used it really doesnt matter, as long as the engine was maintained. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 I think that why they call them (''") lights, because the damage might already be done. I will be installing a full gauge package in the clam shell on my center dash. And I do check my dash every few minutes, I learned this on my first few cars lol. I have JDM gauges which i am trying to figure out how to wire. I love them since they fit in the DIN pocket, but i cant find a wiring diagram. I dont have access to a calbration lab anymore so i can't figure it out that way either. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon38iowa Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 I have contacted CCR and asked for some price estimates. I am reading that you guys think it is better to replace than rebuild, especially given the type of damage we likely have. When I am looking to purchase a replacement motor should I stay away from a replacement motor that has been rebuilt or are used motors typically rebuilds. This is all new for me and I am not sure how it works. I guess the lesson learned here is for my husband not to be so free with loaning out the car. At least if we blew it up we'd have only ourselves to blame and not the added frustration of what ifs. I spent four months searching for a used one. The 2.5 sohc is hard to find used; Morever the few I did locate, had 50k or more in mileage and only a 30 day warranty. I found this unacceptable given the $2500. to 3000. price tag. Since having mine rebuilt was such a major hassle, I would definately consider CCR or simillar, should I cross this bridge again. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 Yukira, I don't know how much the financial end of this means to your family. The cost of the the CCR (best in the business most agree) engine/shipping/replacement for a vehicle that is basiclly nine years old, is going to be substantial => guess ~ 3-4000 USD. In your area many people have switched from the EJ25 to the EJ22 - these are available far cheaper than the rebuilt EJ25 and as many have attested to just as reliable if not more so. Just want you to be advised of your options. One question - who changed the oil last? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon38iowa Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 One question - who changed the oil last? You read my mind. Oil plugs don't usually fall out; Perhaps recourse may be found from the garage where the car was last serviced, that is, if that was the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yukira Posted January 15, 2007 Author Share Posted January 15, 2007 Skip, Price is a huge factor as I need to replace my aging pickup truck as well and that was my goal for this year. Are you saying we could use an EJ22 instead of the EJ25. Because I will look into those as well. I have heard of a local company that sells used/rebuilt engines that a friend bought for her outback. Unfortunately she hadn't installed yet so I don't know how reliable this company is. I'm embarrased to say who changed the oil last. Let's just say he's not driving any of my rigs any more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon38iowa Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 Skip, Price is a huge factor as I need to replace my aging pickup truck as well and that was my goal for this year. Are you saying we could use an EJ22 instead of the EJ25. Because I will look into those as well. I have heard of a local company that sells used/rebuilt engines that a friend bought for her outback. Unfortunately she hadn't installed yet so I don't know how reliable this company is. I'm embarrased to say who changed the oil last. Let's just say he's not driving any of my rigs any more. Keep in mind if you swap to the EJ22 (Very well made engine) you might also have to replace some of the expensive electronics, but you have to talk with your mechanic to know for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 Yukria, Yes the swap has been done by many here. My 87 OB has an EJ22 at this time. I changed nothing but the engine read - all electronics were plug and play. I do not know what Jon refers to, maybe he will grace us with some details? The year of the EJ22 donor is a concern. I will search for some posts on this subject. contact screne name Imdew he has done many of these swaps and is very helpful. lot of reading http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52845&highlight=EJ22+swap http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24708&highlight=EJ22+swap http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67543&highlight=EJ22+swap http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68341&highlight=EJ22+swap http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68047&highlight=EJ22+swap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yukira Posted January 15, 2007 Author Share Posted January 15, 2007 Skip, Thanks for the links. Do you know, or should I try to contact Imdew, which specific year and model would work to swap with our Forester? I have checked some of the local wreckers and the different between a used 99 Forester motor and a 95 Legacy motor is about $1,000. Pretty big difference. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manarius Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 I'd rather have the 95 Legacy motor - non-interference ftw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 Yukria, Yes it would be wise to shoot Imdew a PM (Private Message) Possibly link him to this post and ask his opinion. Here is a link to his profile. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/member.php?find=lastposter&t=70106 The best year for the swap looks to be a 95 automatic. EGR and exhaust port config being the issue. Mine went in real easy, only swap I had to do was the flexplate for the automatic. Good luck in the hunt, they should be pretty abundant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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