funcle Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 =Manual Transmission 1. What solvent can/should I use to flush the front transmission? 2. How can I flush the rear differential? 3. Are there any clutch alignment tricks I should know about? 4. whats the best way to break it in? -thx, Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 Hi! No need to flush anything. If you insist, then I suggest just pouring fresh oil in without installing the drain plug. Clutch alignment requires the standard pilot shaft tool thingy - can't recall the trade name. Nothing fancy. Running in shouldn't be too tricky, just drive normally and avoid "jack-rabbit" starts for the first 300 miles. Avoid them anyway of you want it last for a long time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funcle Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 The spring pins did not go back into the outer CV assymbly while a drill bit of the correct size slid easily through. Is it possibly misaligned, or do I just need new spring pins? Also, can I put somthing in the holes besides the spring pins and change them out after a few days of driving? One of the pins broke from trying to tap it in, the other is bent, but in over half way. I think the rear transmission case needed to be more level. Can I get back on the road with the springpins in the above condition and just switch them out in a few days? One other question: How can I tell the difference between binding and good connection -gear to spline- in the transaxle? (ie): is there a tolerance I should be "feeling" for? --god bless heated shops-- Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sea#3 Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 One of the pins broke from trying to tap it in, the other is bent, but in over half way. I think the rear transmission case needed to be more level. Can I get back on the road with the springpins in the above condition and just switch them out in a few days? One other question: How can I tell the difference between binding and good connection -gear to spline- in the transaxle? (ie): is there a tolerance I should be "feeling" for? --god bless heated shops-- Jeff You have to align the counter sunk hole that is on the splined shaft with the counter sunk hole of the inner c/v hole when you assemble it back together ,then the pin will go through without bending The pin hole is drill off centre SEA#3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funcle Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 Whats the best method to obtain new pins? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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