Loyale mysterious intermittent starting problem

[ionic]

We have a 93 Loyale 4WD automatic that has had for several years an intermittent starting problem that seems to be becoming more frequent. The car has a new battery (6 months old) and the starter contacts were replaced shortly after the battery, but to no avail. My mechanic is baffled by the problem because it is so intermittent and never happens when the car is at the shop.

 

The problem occurs only on warmer days when the car has been parked on the sun. We've had a warm winter (temperatures in 60s and 70s), so it's happened several times in the past few weeks. It's worse in the summertime, but there is never a problem starting the car on even the coldest days.

 

When the car won't start, which is only intermittently and only on warm days, turning the key in the ignition elicits one click and never any more. We have several keys and several drivers, and the problem has happened for each different driver and each different key. All the accessories, radio, blower, headlights, warning lights etc., will always work fine. The problem occurs regardless of whether the shifter is in Park or Neutral, and jiggling the shifter has no effect. Jiggling the key in the ignition also has no effect. The battery is fully charged and there is no corrosion on the battery terminals. Jump starting the car works instantly to start it every time. Occasionally, turning off every accessory that was left running when the car was parked will allow it to start immediately after a no-start, but this works only sporadically. Allowing the car to sit turned off for half an hour or an hour after a no-start will usually allow it to start just fine without jump starting.

 

The other odd thing is that the 91 Loyale we had previously exhibited the exact same problem, but we sold the car before trying to fix it.

 

Anyone have any ideas? The annoyance of the problem is just becoming too great. Thanks!

[GeneralDisorder]

Pretty common actually. The crank circuit has developed a condition where it won't pass enough current to engage the starter solenoid all the time, and a downward spiral of repeated starting attempts only make it worse as it heats up the wireing and damages the circuit further. The fix is actually quite simple - you install a relay in the crank circuit so that the existing circuit only needs to close the relay, and the relay powers the solenoid.

 

This happens a lot, but seems more frequent on the automatics as the crank circuit runs through the inhibitor switch in the auto shifter. Regardless though, the fix is the same as the current demand of a relay is far less and the damaged circuit will be able to handle it with 100% reliability.

 

There's a single spade terminal on the back of the starter - use that wire to close the relay, and run a new wire from the positive battery terminal through the relay and to the back of the starter.

 

In the mean time, if you need to start it, the easy way is to get yourself a 4" bit of 10 guage wire, strip both ends, and then touch one end to the positive terminal on the starter (12mm nut), and the other end to the spade terminal. That will crank the engine and start it if you have the key in "run".

 

And find a mechanic that knows Subaru's

 

GD

[hooziewhatsit]

I've had a couple intermittent no starts caused by a bad connection to the spade on the starter. After replacing the connection from the harness with a standard 'blue' spade connector, the problem went away.

 

Not saying the problem isn't elsewhere in the starting circuit though, just throwing out a potential quick fix.

 

-Dave

[Skip]

pursuant to GD's post

here is the wiring for the aux relay

(standard aux lighting relay)

[rapidfire10ring]

   By gosh, I am having the same problem on my 90 Loyale wagon, automatic.  Only 163K miles and it sat for 9 years without being driven. 

  I changed batteries, cleaned every flippin terminal and still happens. High and dry again today for about half an hour. So I carry a multimeter, 12.26 V with terminals removed. Cleaned and dried them, went back to the starter spade terminal and wiped it down.  Held my toungue just right and it started.

Nothing makes sense.

Is it best to simply change out or rebuild the starter, then?  

[DaveT]

Did you clean and or replace the several connectors in the harness that are in the cranking wiring path?  From the ignition switch, across the dash, to the neutral lockout switch, back to the firewall, out across to the starter?  And the switches?

 

I've had this on a few of my wagons.  Many on the forum have had this problem.  The easiest way to fix it is to add a relay under the hood.  The existing wire to the starter goes to the relay coil.  The contacts are wired to send fused 12V from the fusible link box to the terminal on the back of the starter. 

 

Problem gone.

 

BTW, 12.26V [12.3V] on a resting battery is at about half charge state.  12.6 is fully charged.  But this isn't causing the click no crank.

[rapidfire10ring]

    I will do a followup cleaning of the terminals, wires, and contacts.  I would like to see some photos and diagrams of the relay that seems to work for so many.  As a byline this problem seems to happen most to the Automatics and less so to the Manual transmissions.   I had asked also if a rebuild of the starter may help. (someone replied that they removed the starter and 'replaced' the terminals?)  

 

    I drove the 90 all day today without a hiccup.

[DaveT]

There are other similar threads with diagrams, I'm not sure how to best find them, unfortunately. 

I have many times more experience with the 3ATs than any of the standard shift versions. 

The 2 fixed terminals in the starter can also cause the intermittent click no crank.  It wouldn't hurt to check them.  They are replaceable.  That is all I've ever had to do to the starters in several of these cars, since 1988.

Edited June 30, 2017 by DaveT

[Dee2]

I used the Bosch WR1 Starter Relay kit, as have others. Comes prewired with diagrams and instructions and everything needed and ready to hook it up, about $20

 

I also replaced the starter contacts on  mine which were badly worn.  There are some videos on youtube for doing this.  Contacts are available on line or through the dealer.  Prices vary widely, $2 to $20.

Edited June 30, 2017 by Dee2

[rapidfire10ring]

I used the Bosch WR1 Starter Relay kit, as have others. Comes prewired with diagrams and instructions and everything needed and ready to hook it up, about $20

 

I also replaced the starter contacts on  mine which were badly worn.  There are some videos on youtube for doing this.  Contacts are available on line or through the dealer.  Prices vary widely, $2 to $20.

  Where did you get the Bosch Relay kit?

[Dee2]

  Where did you get the Bosch Relay kit?

I got mine through Amazon. 

Google it and other sources are also likely available