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Ready for belts and seals


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Hello all. Its a 1992 Loyale wagon and I'm just about ready, (56K miles) to do the timing belts again. And where I am losing a considerable amount of oil, (about 1 quart/2 weeks) I figured I'd try and do the cam shaft seals and whatever other oil seals that come in the kit that the NAPA guy says they sell. I'm not really sure of what I'm getting into but I have changed the timing belts a few times, so I think I'm good there. I found a real good parts list on one of the archive searches the other day but darned if I can find it again.I should have printed it off I guess.

One other thing that bothers me is what is happening to my antifreeze. I have to refill the expansion tank quite often as well and I'm not sure where thats going either. I did notice some green colored drips on the snow today as I was dragging my snowmobile trailer out of the back forty. I looked around the bottom of the radiator but didn't see anything that stood out. My biggest fear is a head gasket but after seeing the drips I'm hoping its just a leak, although I have noticed quite a bit of moisture on the oil filler cap.I've read on this forum about a pipe that leaks but I'm not sure if this engine has it. I know my '88 had the pipe because I had to replace an o ring on it once. I also read where alot of mechanics replace the water pump when doing oil seal repairs. Isn't that a little excessive? I guess its because of its location. I'll do whatever you guy's experience dictates.

I hate to put too much into this car as it does have over 215K miles on the odometer, but I'll need to keep it running until warmer weather comes so I can get the Loyale I bought last summer on the road.

 

So basically after all this rambling, 2 questions: oil seal change out and antifreeze leakage. Thanks as always for your anticipated help. It is always appreciated. Toni. GO PATS!!!!!!!!

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yeah, do the water pump. if it's leaking you can only really tell until you do the timing belts. I was completely car-illiterate when i pulled my engine outta my '87 gl... headgaskets, water pump, oil pump, rear main, front main, intake manifold gaskets, oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets... crank shaft seals. oh yeah, belts and hoses too. it really wasn't that hard... a little time consuming being that it was my first time though. but in the case you decide to do the water pump, don't use too much sealant (I forgot what kind of sealant they said was the good kind). just a thin coat on either side of the gasket is all you need. and as for the front main, just pull the belts off, probably wanna take the rad out too to get it outta the way, and remove the main crank pulley. I THINK it's 22mm? could be wrong... use an impact OR a wrench with cheater or breaker bar and rest it against the passenger side frame rail or fender (use some kinda protection there) and crank the engine just a tad. it'll break it right loose!! voila there's your seal. good luck.

 

-Jordan

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crank pulley is 22mm, you're correct.

 

i always replace the water pump anyway, but since you have leakage you definitely want to. the water pump lies behind the timing belts, so that's why everyone replaces them while the belts are off. also with the belts off it is best to replace the cam seals, crank seal, oil pump gasket, oil pump seal and oil pump o-ring. the crank seal is by far the most annoying one to replace, everything else is easy. when replacing the cam seals, do not just replace the seal. by the seal KIT from http://www.thepartsbin.com or somewhere else. it has the seal and the o-ring that's behind the cam cap. the cam cap is held on the cam shaft by a couple 10mm bolts, remove them and the entire housing that the cam seal resides in comes off the cam tower. this makes seal replacement very simple. then replace the o-ring behind it, the old one will be matted and obviously squished out of round. remove the radiator first so as not to damage it and you'll want to inspect it and the hoses as well for leakage. the water pump will come with the o-ring on the water pump pipe. be sure to clean this, i lube them up with a tacky sealant. then make sure the bolt holding that pipe is'nt stripped or loose.

 

don't forget to make sure you get the right water pump, there are two available for the EA82. the one i bought for a loyale last week was $29 from napa, that's all i can remember and it was the right one.

 

i picked up a $58 kit on ebay, it included two new timing belts, both timing belt tensioners brand new and a new idler sprocket. so the entire timing system was replaced new.

 

i'd probably want to know where the antifreeze leak was first before dumping all of this money into the vehicle if you suspect the head gaskets. there are heater core hoses, throttle body hose, radiator hoses and a few tiny hoses on top the engine in various places that can leak as well. inspect those carefully, overheating an engine due to a $1 hose is annoying.

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O.K thanks guys. Sorry it took so long to get back with a reply but, work, work, work.......... Yeah, I remember that water pump O ring on my old '88 GL wagon,(my parts car), and replacing that once because it was leaking. I didn't realize that this car had the same hookup on it, although I should have because of all the parts I've robbed off of it.Could be exactly where my antifreeze is going. I swear when I get out of the car after coming home from work I can smell that sweet antifreeze smell.

So I'll plan on replacing the water pump and front seal. As well as all the seals that come in the NAPA kit. While I'm at it I think I'll do a compression check to see if the head gasket is bothering. Hopefully that's not where the antifreeze is going. Shoot, I might as well do the plugs if I'm going to take them out.

I'd like to see this Subie make 300K but, I'm afraid the rust may get it first. Especially after I get the rustproofing to stop leaking all over it.

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Any work you put into this engine, is not wasted.

 

You can always yank this motor and keep it around longer than the rest of the car. If you have two loyales, and they are both non-turbo, SPFI (does the air intake look the same? is it at least close to the same? the differences are drastic) then.. its the same. You could get your new car going, blow the motor to smithereens, and just bolt the one from your old car in :grin::banana:

 

now, I have no idea if keeping an old engine, along with a pile of parts, is PRACTICAL for you at all.. BUT you know the history of your current engine. You have been taking meticulous care of it for thousands of miles. the new one is a question mark. Alot of us in your shoes, would reseal your current engine.. and then have to think long and hard about even BOTHERING with the engine in the new car. :lol:

 

just my two bits.

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