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Chromoly Stub Shafts


Rooinater
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well i'm going to start looking into getting chromoly 4340 stub shafts turned. wanted to see who would honestly want to and will back up with money if i find a company to turn some. this is kind of like when we found a company to make the lockers, but everyone was cheap and didn't want to fork up the initial cost to make it an available option and for the price to come down after initial production and research costs. figure a few hundred per set... speak up or forever hold your peace. you guys can keep digging, or start making more options available by helping with the first batches and they could be avail at a later date.

 

i'm done breaking these stubs. and they need to be upgraded or sas... i'd like to keep the roo, a roo for now.

 

so who's in if i can find a company to turn them?

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well, i'm going to take off on a lead to see how much they'll cost from a machinist in wa. i'll let you know if he writes back and see if it would be production or one time turns. and how out rageous. limiting suspension travel in the rear has greatly reduced my axle snapping. the stubs break now.

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i'm up for it. i really want to keep my soob a soob as much as possible too. let me know how much i might need to scrape up.

 

at the moment i have a bonus coming up in a couple of months and i'm hoping to use it for a weber upgrade and toying with the idea of an LSD in the stock front diff. the rear weld diff helps alot but now i want a little more.

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as for the shafts if you limit the axle movement you'll reduce the stress on the shaft. i have the ea82 rear shocks on the back. it don't move much.

 

well my guts are welded, so the carrier or the housing would have to grenade. i have sheered a weak shaft right behind the bearing... but lifetime warranty and took it off before the boot tore and it fell apart... you make one upgrade... you find another that will need it down the line. with all my gearing i don't get hard on the skinny pedal. the stubby's break from shock load or binding. in fairly easy situations.

 

two emails have been sent out. waiting back for replies.

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well there's one person that'd make 'em i've found. but they have a lot of moving and stuff going on for the next 2 months. no custom work for a month or 2. supposed to get back to him after a few months. haven't heard back from anyone else yet. i'll keep looking around...

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Have any of you guys in WA talked to Bobby Long? He is the Toyota front axle and birfield guru. Has expaned into may other drive train areas, offering cryoed & chromo parts. Hub gears, cryoed ring and pinion........ Don't know if he treats the parts himself or not. He is in Grahm WA. Don't know if he would be interseted in messing with Subaru stuff, but couldn't hurt to vist with him.

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these guys have some good prices

http://www.onecryo.com/

It may be wise to buy a set of brand new stub shafts and have those treated if possible. fatiguing could potentially be much less with a brand new part, which would help to take full advantage of the treatment. however I really have no idea if brand new stubs are available. used diffs are really a crapshoot when it comes to how hard theyve been beaten.

 

also, perhaps one could use a legacy diff and axles with the outer end machined to length and spline count to take whatever setup you were running? or would necking down to a 23 spline make it a waste of time as the weak point would still be in the outer? just thinking out loud is all.

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^^ same idea.

 

we're not talking about making the axles themselves stronger. we're talking about the rear diff stubs. and not just by having them cryo treated, but having entire new ones made from Chromoly.

 

although, I've got a local connection that could probably get a pretty good deal on Cryo treating if you want. they'll do anything, engine internals, tranny gearsets, etc. I guess the owner cryo treats his razor blades so they last like 10x longer...

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how much would he charge for cryo'd ones? i haven't done much research into the cryo'd parts. still haven't heard back from anyone else. and haven't had time to email off anyone new. been working long hours.

 

definately not getting new cv shafts, just the stubs in the diffs... i can limit the breaking of shafts by limiting articulation for the most part. the usually stress out and break at full droop. the only time i've broken them otherwise was a weak shaft, balls to the wall throttle and a really good bounce in the rear. which is the only time i sheered the actual shaft and not the joint. still rarely screw up joints as bad as stubs.

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how much would he charge for cryo'd ones?

 

I shall inquire. it may take a little while, as it's a friend of a friend....but I'll see what may be possible.

 

I'll also see if the dealer can get new ones to start with. our local club gets a 20% discount on parts, so I'll see what kind of possibilities we see there.

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Wait a tick.Could the "bell joints" be adapted to work on both ends?If so you could have like 2 ft under the diff/skidplate at normal ride height...All suspension lift baby!

 

you could, but you'd need to put a slip joint in the middle, otherwise you'll hyper-extend them in a heartbeat. me and a few buddies are looking at doing something like this...

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  • 3 months later...

I want to bump this for two reasons. One, if new stubs are made, they should be 300M not Chromoly. There should be some axle makers that could make these for a reasonable price.

 

Two, I would rather see effort go into a stub with a flange to accept a 930 CV, which would eliminate the DOJ. I want longer axles with more angle for long travel suspension.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Numbchux, there is a company who is making half shafts for off road buggies with IRS, using U-joints and a slip joint. Is it really possible to use two outer joints with a slip joint axle? Please elaborate on this.

 

I found an axle company that is willing to make stub axles out of 4340 chromoly or 300M $$$. They can also make an adapter stub with two splines, a 23 inner, and xx outer, to mate to a 930 CV flange.

 

Do these stubs pop in and out, retained by a ring?

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Numbchux, there is a company who is making half shafts for off road buggies with IRS, using U-joints and a slip joint. Is it really possible to use two outer joints with a slip joint axle? Please elaborate on this.

 

there are numerous companies who make CV shafts for IFS trucks with slip joints in the middle to keep them from hyper-extending. the ones I've been looking at are for Chevy pickups. if you could get your hands on a slip joint like that (whether cut from a kit like that, or bought seperately), you could weld them into the shaft, and then take it to a driveline shop and have it balance.

 

Do these stubs pop in and out, retained by a ring?

 

nope, there's an external 10mm torx bolt in the bottom of it.

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